Taste of success

Mark Starr’s recipe for outstanding pizzas is simple: Use only quality ingredients, and bake them the traditional way.

The same holds for his approach to pizza restaurants: quality features imbued with a traditional ambience.

That’s why Starr devoted so much time and resources turning a century-old bakery into his new David’s Pizza.

After three years and $400,000, the restaurant and bar are open for business.

During a recent interview, Starr discussed how he stumbled into the food-service industry, and why he doesn’t insist new hires have any background in it.

S-R: Where were you raised?

Starr: Seattle and Los Angeles.

S-R: What were your interests growing up?

Starr: I’ve always been involved in some sort of work. That was my recreation. I started out at my dad’s Seattle furniture store when I was 12, doing warehouse work, deliveries and refinishing furniture.

S-R: Did you have a favorite class in high school?

Starr: Mechanical engineering … drafting.

S-R: Any college education?

Starr: A bunch of courses, but no degree.

S-R: What were some of your early careers?

Starr: I bartended at Strobel’s, worked at Huppin’s Hi-Fi forever, and did sales and marketing for Pepsi-Cola and ADT (security).

S-R: How did you come to own David’s Pizza?

Starr: That was a mistake! (laugh) Three friends of mine started David’s Pizza, and I invested money in it just to help them out. At the time, I was local sales manager for ADT and about to move to Seattle to become sales manager for the state. But then two of the (David’s Pizza) partners dropped out. When Ice Storm hit (in 1996), the third partner happened to be in Seattle, and I ended up running David’s Pizza by myself. Afterward, I called him and said, “I can’t do this. You were supposed to be back here days ago.” And he said, “I think maybe you need to buy me out.” And I said, “Whoa, whoa, whoa – I was going the other direction.” That’s kind of how that transpired.

S-R: Then what?

Starr: David’s just kept growing. Then I started catering (with a mobile pizza oven) just for fun, and it developed into a full-time business. And I got involved in a lot of community events – Bloomsday, Hoopfest and Oktoberfest, which is a huge fundraiser for (the) Multiple Sclerosis (Society).

S-R: What about Famous Ed’s on East 57th?

Starr: That’s half mine, together with Dale Kleist, who owns Fast Eddie’s. I brought the David’s Pizza portion to it, as well as the kitchen and the actual day-to-day, this-is-how-we-do-it side. It’s become extremely popular, so I’ll keep doing that.

S-R: What’s it like opening a new restaurant?

Starr: The first six months are the honeymoon phase, when people come check you out. But if you’re not able to turn 50 percent of those curious customers into regulars, the next six months are lean. That’s why a lot of new restaurants barely make it a year.

S-R: What lessons have you learned over the years?

Starr: Every day is Groundhog Day. The same problems you fix today you’ll see again tomorrow. That’s the nature of the business – it repeats.

S-R: What made you successful at the North Hamilton location?

Starr: We became sort of the Logan Neighbor barbershop. Guys who used to babysit John Stockton would hang out there along with profs from GU and the folks from G-Prep and Avista. It was a big melting pot and constant gripe session for years, and it was fun. It wasn’t until I moved away that I appreciated that.

S-R: Why did you leave?

Starr: They decided to turn the site into a strip mall, and I couldn’t survive in that kind of a building with no parking and quadruple the rent.

S-R: What did it cost to open the original David’s Pizza?

Starr: Under $20,000.

S-R: How much did you put into your new leased space?

Starr: Over $400,000.

S-R: Who did the design?

Starr: It was a collaborative effort. I worked with Bernardo-Wills (Architects), and they are tremendous at listening and reading you.

S-R: The focal point is the massive bar. Where did that come from?

Starr: Cyrus O’Leary’s. When the restaurant closed (in 2011), I bought it.

S-R: What did you pay?

Starr: Too much. But how do you put a price tag on a piece of Spokane history?

S-R: It looks ancient.

Starr: It’s not. It was actually manufactured for Cyrus O’Leary’s. The look is what they call a Brunswick bar.

S-R: What do you like most about your new location?

Starr: There’s a lot of pedestrian traffic. You have more than 1,000 people at the county Courthouse complex (three blocks away), plus Riverfront Park, Kendall Yards, two or three hotels, and the Arena. I say the Arena last because everybody thinks, “Oh, the Arena. You’re going to do great.” People said the same thing about Gonzaga University. But Gonzaga’s not what made David’s successful. It was the relationships we developed and our work in the community.

S-R: What’s your niche in this competitive industry?

Starr: First off, we’re not the least expensive. I don’t like to compete like that. I use the best ingredients possible. Everything’s made fresh. And we make pizzas the way they did years ago, on stone ovens. But the second component is the one I’m most proud of. The people who work for us genuinely care about our customers. They understand my philosophy that we’re not here to get rich overnight.

S-R: Is there a busiest time of year?

Starr: Catering is huge six months out of the year, and that keeps me incredibly busy.

S-R: What’s your typical day?

Starr: I get to work before 5 a.m., read the newspaper and drink my coffee. By 6:30 or 7 o’clock I have people delivering supplies. By 8 o’clock I’m getting phone calls for catering – people know the best time to catch me is before 10. Then it’s wheels up, running errands until 6 or 7, when I try to get back to the restaurant to greet people. And that’s seven days a week. I haven’t had a vacation in five years. But when you’re in this business, there’s only one way to do it.

S-R: What do you like most about your job?

Starr: People, and being able to make a difference in the community.

S-R: What do you like least?

Starr: That I don’t get time off. But I’ve hired a manager who thinks the way I do, so that may help.

S-R: What’s been your biggest surprise about this business?

Starr: That I got back into it, because I knew better. Bartending at Strobel’s was my foray into the food-service industry, and I realized it’s a lot of fun, but boy it will chew you up.

S-R: What’s your favorite customer reaction?

Starr: When someone comes up to me, grabs me by the shoulder to get my attention, and says, “That girl over there – our waitress – she was the best. And the food was amazing. I’m bringing all my friends here.” I love that, and I’m blown away by how many times it happens.

S-R: What qualities do you look for in employees?

Starr: I don’t necessarily look for someone who’s been in the business. I can teach anybody how to cook or bartend or do dishes or serve. But you need someone who’s engaging, who’s not afraid to introduce themselves, and who doesn’t take it personally if a customer is not happy with their food or service. You need to go, “All right, what can I do to fix it?” and be sincere.

S-R: What’s your favorite meal?

Starr: One that someone else cooked.