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Brookdale chef relies on spices, fresh herbs to flavor dishes

These tender ancho-rubbed ribs with charred cherry tomatoes are one of the most popular summertime dishes at Brookdale Senior Living at Brookdale Park Place. (Adriana Janovich / The Spokesman-Review)

Senses dull as people age, and that includes their palates.

Decreased taste and smell can lessen interest and enjoyment in eating. So chef Chris Atkinson, 33, pays particular attention to how he flavors dishes at Brookdale Senior Living Solutions at Brookdale Park Place in Spokane.

“We’re using a lot more fresh herbs and chicken stock and chili flakes to make those flavors come out,” said Atkinson, who oversees two kitchens, three dining rooms, 31 staff members and the careful feeding of some 220 residents.

The youngest is 62. It’s not unusual for the oldest to be centenarians.

Most tend to eschew spicy foods, and Atkinson, director of dining services at Brookdale, aims to limit their intake of salt, fat and sugar.

He’s worked at Brookdale since 2009. Before that, he worked at Dockside and Beverly’s at the Coeur d’Alene Resort.

In summer, Ancho-Rubbed Grilled Barbecue Ribs and Shrimp Scampi are two popular dishes, which Atkinson estimates Brookdale chefs here prepare once every three weeks.

The trick to the ribs is simple: “low and slow,” Atkinson said.

For the scampi, it’s the opposite. The dish comes together quickly over high heat.

“You don’t want to use really small shrimp,” Atkinson said, noting regular spaghetti noodles can be substituted for the linguine.

“Angel hair works really well, too.”

Ancho-Rubbed Grilled Barbecue Ribs

From Chris Atkinson at Brookdale Park Place in Spokane

For the ribs

4 1/2 tablespoons light brown sugar

3/4 cup paprika

1 tablespoon garlic powder

2 1/4 teaspoons pepper

1 3/4 tablespoons onion powder

5 pounds pork spare ribs

For the sauce

1 cup water

2 cups ketchup

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

5 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/2 tablespoon black pepper

1/2 tablespoon onion powder

1/2 tablespoon mustard, ground

10 sprigs fresh basil

In a bowl, combine brown sugar, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder and black pepper. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Using the spice mixture, rub and completely cover the ribs. Place the ribs on a pan and cover them with foil. Cook ribs for approximately 1 1/2 hours. (Or, longer. Atkinson said the ribs in the photo had been cooked for 2 1/2 hours.)

For the barbecue sauce, bring the water, ketchup, vinegar, sugar, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, onion powder and mustard to a boil in a saucepan. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, stirring until thickened, about 30 minutes.

Remove the ribs from the oven. Let them rest for about 5 minutes. Discard the foil and place on a grill or broiler. Because the ribs are cooked, char will take place quickly, monitor closely during this stage.

As the ribs continue to cook on the grill, baste them with the barbecue sauce. Use a pastry brush during this process making sure the ribs are coated evenly on both sides. Continue to turn the ribs during the grilling process.

Place the ribs on a cutting board and cut into desired portion size. Remember to keep the bones on each portion as this is one part of serving ribs.

Serve the ribs immediately to avoid temperature loss. The ribs should be drizzled with barbecue sauce and extra sauce served on the side as a condiment.

Yield: 10 servings

Shrimp Scampi

From Chris Atkinson at Brookdale Park Place in Spokane

2 1/2 gallons water

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 pounds linguine

3 ounces butter

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

4 shallots, diced fine

4 cloves garlic, minced

Pinch crushed red pepper

21 to 25 shrimp, peeled and deveined, tail off (about 2 pounds)

Pinch kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 ounce butter, unsalted

1/4 cup parsley, fresh and finely chopped

For the pasta, place a pot of water on the stove to boil. When it has come to a boil, add 1 teaspoon salt and the linguine. Stir to make sure the pasta separates; cover. When the water returns to a boil, cook for about 6 to 8 minutes or until the pasta is not quite done. Drain the pasta. Hold at 140 degrees or higher until use.

Meanwhile, in a skillet, melt 2 ounces butter in 4 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots, garlic and red pepper flakes (if using) until the shallots are translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Season the shrimp with remaining salt and pepper; add shrimp to the skillet and cook until they have turned pink and reached a minimum internal temperature of 145 degrees for 15 seconds. Add wine and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Add the remaining amounts of butter and olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the cooked pasta along with the parsley to the pan. Stir well to combine. Hold at 140 degrees or higher until service.

To serve: Place 1 cup pasta on a plate or into a bowl topped with 3 ounces cooked shrimp. Serve immediately.

Yield: 8 servings