Riesling rising: Rocket Market hosts night dedicated to the German grape

Alan Shepherd sings the praises of riesling to anyone who’ll listen.

After all, it’s his favorite varietal – one he believes is largely overlooked by most wine drinkers, but pairs well with many foods, especially spicy dishes, and is perfect for warm-weather sipping.

“It’s much more refreshing than a big, huge cab on a 100-degree day,” he said. But, “it’s under-appreciated.”

Shepherd, co-owner of Rocket Market on Spokane’s South Hill, and Matt Dolan, wine steward at the specialty grocery store, plan to extoll the virtues of riesling during a guided wine tasting June 24. Among those virtues: versatility.

“It’s got to be the most versatile varietal there is,” said Shepherd, noting some wine drinkers think of riesling solely as sweet. And it used to be.

“It was one-note,” Shepherd said – sugary, syrupy, cheap.

For that reason, riesling fell out of favor in America following World War II. But, it’s been rising in popularity during the past 15 or 20 years with increased production of a wide variety of distinctive, high-quality wines.

“And I’m dragging it kicking and screaming from the unfavorable,” Shepherd said. “It’s coming back.”

Part of the reason is, he said, “There’s something for everybody.”

Riesling comes in many forms: sparkling, crisp and dry, well-balanced and semi-sweet, and sweet. It also makes for some of the rarest – and most expensive – dessert wines in the world.

Riesling is the top varietal in Germany, where the grape originated, so many associate it with the Rhine region and neighboring Alsace area in France. But, Shepherd is quick to point out, wineries right here in Washington state are producing world-class riesling, too. In fact, riesling is this state’s top white wine grape.

During Rocket’s Riesling class, Dolan will lead guests through a sampling of styles from around the world, including Germany, France, Washington and Australia or New Zealand, or maybe both. He’s worked at Rocket for six years, selecting and approving all of the wine and beer that graces the shelves and looking out for selections that are “good for its price.”

His wine classes usually highlight bottles that retail for between $12 to $40.There’s room for 26 people, and seats fill up fast – especially in winter. Be sure to make a reservation.

“It’s not a drop-in class,” said Shepherd, who started the sessions when he bought the market in the late 1990s. It’s not intimidating, either.

“It’s not stuffy at all,” he said. “We are kind of the anti-snob wine shop. It’s not about impressing people with the name of the bottle. It’s about enjoying the wine.”

The market hosts the tastings on Friday nights. This one is particularly special because riesling is Shephard’s personal favorite.

“There is no better pairing, in my opinion, than Szechwan or Thai or any other fiery food, with a riesling,” he said. “You get a slight sweetness. It cuts the heat and cools the mouth between bites of hot food. Your food is much more brighter and livelier with the wine.”

Plus, he wants to change the idea that riesling isn’t for aficionados.

“There’s this perception that to be a serious wine lover you have to drink reds. You have to drink big, huge cabs. It’s a macho thing really is what it is,” Shepherd said, adding riesling “is for anybody that doesn’t just eat steak all the time.”

He’s vegetarian, and finds that riesling pairs well with some of his favorite dishes, including Indian food.

“You don’t want it to be cloying. It’s got to finish dry unless it’s a dessert wine,” he said.

Dolan is still finalizing the eight wines for his tasting, but he expects to include the bright and balanced Chateau Ste. Michelle 2013 Eroica Riesling from Washington in the line-up. It’s a traditional German-style riesling that meets the Pacific Northwest with citrus, crisp acidity and orchard fruit.

“There’s sweetness at the front, but the finish is dry,” Shepherd said. “It’s luxurious. It’s a really elegant wine.”

Also in the running is the 2013 Dopff & Irion Riesling Cuvee Rene from Alsace, which Dolan describes as “bone dry” with a sweet-tart flavor, hint of lemon peel and “apricot that is not quite ripe but you want to eat it anyhow.”

There’s a bubbly under consideration, too – Loosen Bros. Dr. L. Sparkling Riesling from Germany – with a whisper of yeast on the nose or, as Dolan described it, “a light, bready toastiness.”

On the palate, it’s fruity and sweet but not too sweet. “And it’s fun. You have bubbles,” Shepherd said, noting. “Sparkling wine is not just for special occasions.”

This is how he defines those: “A special occasion is you’re going to have dinner.”