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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Whitefish Mountain Resort a hidden ski gem close to the Inland Northwest

By John Nelson Correspondent

You might not know it, but one of North America’s best-loved ski areas sits within easy driving distance of the Inland Northwest.

The 2016 Ski Magazine reader’s poll ranks Whitefish Mountain Resort at No. 11 in North America. That’s saying something, considering behemoths like Whistler-Blackcomb, Vail, Sun Valley and Jackson Hole typically top the list.

So what makes the Western Montana resort so great?

Among other things, Ski Magazine readers singled out Whitefish Mountain Resort’s service (No. 3), value (No. 5) and grooming (No. 9). It also helps that the ski area is just 20 minutes from a vibrant ski town with great restaurants and nightlife.

Telemark skier Mark Beattie of Spokane, an employee of Mountain Gear, regularly makes the trip to Whitefish.

“When they have a good powder day, they have really great snow,” he says. “I’ve had a few beyond-epic days there.”

Besides the skiing, Beattie enjoys the funky vibe of Whitefish.

“It doesn’t feel like Sun Valley or Whistler, where you’re overrun with tourist traps that are trying to take your money,” Beattie says.

With 3,000 acres of terrain, Whitefish Mountain Resort covers all the bases. In its treed glades and open bowls, about 48 percent of the mountain is rated advanced and expert; 52 percent is beginner and intermediate. The resort has a vertical drop of 2,353 feet from a summit elevation of 6,817.

In recent years, Whitefish Mountain Resort has renovated its popular Summit House lodge, adding 135 seats, and installed a triple chairlift to Flower Point. This season, additional renovations at Summit House were completed and the ski area has added more grooming equipment, says Riley Polumbus, public relations manager.

Thinking about heading for Whitefish? Read on for an insider’s guide:

Best groomer: Hands down, it’s Inspiration, a pitch-perfect ridge-top run with exceptional views of the Flathead Valley. You can ski it fast or slow and have a great run every time. “I love the views, the pitch and the length of it,” says Katie Kosnoff, a regular skier at Whitefish Mountain Resort.

Best run to pretend you’re an Olympian: Moe-mentum, named for 1994 gold and silver medalist Tommy Moe, who once trained here. This groomer winds from the upper mountain to the base with some lovely banked turns and actually feels like a downhill race course. Get into a tuck and make like Tommy.

Best snowboarding: “There’s a lot of great tree-riding everywhere,” says Kelly Medler of Whitefish, a regular snowboarder at the resort. The trees hold their snow exceptionally well and are particularly good for snowboarders who can manage quick, short-radius turns. She likes the trees off of Connie’s Coulee and 1,000 Turns in the Hellroaring Basin.

Best time to score powder: January, according to Medler. “That’s when we get the most snow and it’s also the quietest month (for crowds),” she says.

Best bet on a powder day: Hellroaring Basin, according to Polumbus. “Hellroaring Basin is great because of its steepness,” she says. One of her favorite runs is to drop off the top into Connie’s Coulee, ski the trees there in a northwest exposure, then traverse to Picture Chutes, with its southwestern exposure. “You get both sides of the basin if you do that.” Others praise the snow quality of the Flower Point chairlift, where storms seem to dump more snow. “We can be reporting 4-5 inches new on the front side and it will be more like 7-11 inches on the (Flower Point) side,” says Kosnoff.

Best reason to be 70 years old: Whitefish Mountain Resort is one of the few areas in the nation to offer free tickets to those 70 and older. The freebies draw a dedicated group of hard-core oldies-but-goodies.

Best hidden gem: Flower Point has northern exposure, keeping the snow colder and more protected than the front side of the mountain. “You’re really in a different world when you’re out there,” Polumbus says. “Last season, I discovered all sorts of great stashes.”

Best family run: Gray Wolf, a fun, low-angle cruiser off the Big Creek Express that dips and rolls to the northern boundary of the ski area.

Best mountain bar: Tie between the Bierstube and Hellroaring Saloon. Both offer stiff drinks, local flavor and loud slopeside conversations. If you get the chance, go to the “Clod of the Week” celebration on Wednesdays at the Bierstube, where the resort ski patrol honors the mountain’s biggest crashes and most ungainly exploits.

Best free ride: The no-cost SNOW shuttle bus runs between town and the mountain about 20 times a day.

Best place to stay in Whitefish: The Garden Wall Inn is a favorite. It’s set in a lovely house downtown, where owners Rhonda Fitzgerald and Chris Schustrom will treat you like family. Excellent afternoon hors d’oeuvres and beverages, and a deluxe breakfast are part of the price, and the hosts offer a wealth of knowledge about what to do in Whitefish.

Best high-end resort: The Lodge at Whitefish Lake, a complex of hotel rooms, cabins and condominiums with commanding views of the lake, an expansive dining room, bars and spa.

Best ski town bar: The Great Northern Bar and Grill is rustic, loud and has a regular lineup of music.

Best dining: Tupelo Grille offers wonderful southern-themed dishes; Wasabi Sushi Bar is consistently excellent; Latitude 48 Bistro offers Mediterranean-themed dishes and pizza.

Best burger: Buffalo Cafe, which also offers a full breakfast lineup and other hearty fare.

Best craft brewery: The sprawling Great Northern Brewing Co. has a huge selection of local pints.

John Nelson is a freelance outdoors writer based in Seattle. Follow his blog at skizer.org.