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Way Cool Hot August Nights Are The Ideal Time To Enjoy Homemade Frosty Desserts

Janet Hazen Los Angeles Times Service

While ice cream is good year-round, the time for frosty-sweet sherbets, sorbets, frozen custards, pops and ices is now.

Preparing iced confections is a fun, novel way to showcase your favorite flavors and a terrific way to use the abundance of fresh fruit during peak season.

It’s easy to create a variety of frozen treats using only a mixing bowl, blender or food processor and your home freezer. This simple procedure, called “still freezing,” involves combining ingredients, pouring the mixtures into appropriate containers or molds, covering with tight-fitting lids or foil and freezing.

Freezing time ranges from three to eight hours, depending on the ingredients, size and shape of container, freezer conditions and personal preference.

Because still-frozen desserts are not continuously stirred during the freezing process, their final texture is harder, more dense and less creamy than those made in ice cream makers. It is possible, however, to make them lighter and more homogenized by beating the mixture several times during the freezing process, and/or by mixing in whipped cream or whipped egg whites.

Alcohol and a high concentration of sugar lower the freezing point considerably. Using small amounts of liquors and liqueurs produces a softer, less-icy dessert. The addition of unflavored gelatin also makes a smoother and softer final creation.

Sweetened condensed milk is ideal in still-frozen desserts. Cream cheese, nonfat or low-fat yogurt and marshmallow cream lend a rich quality, add body and produce a smooth texture and pleasing mouth feel.

Fresh fruits and certain vegetables, brewed coffee, black and herbal teas and fruit and vegetable juices can be used to create desserts with dramatic flavors and deep, earthy colors.

Extracts, essences and liqueurs, toasted nuts, melted or chopped chocolate, soft or hard candy, dried fruits and flavored syrups add sparkling flavor tones and interesting textures to a wide range of homemade confections.

To serve frozen desserts, remove from the freezer 10 to 15 minutes prior to serving. To unmold, run very hot water around the outside of the mold to separate the food from the container. Place a large plate over the top, hold bottom and top together firmly and, with one movement, turn the mold over onto the plate. Set on a flat surface and quickly lift the mold straight up from the food.

Desserts made with fresh fruit are usually best the first and second days, but they can be stored in the freezer up to two weeks before the flavor and texture deteriorate. Milk or cream-based confections may be stored in the freezer for up to three to four weeks.

Following are some quick and simple recipes for frozen desserts at one-third the cost of most commercial types.

Peachy Pops with Polka Dots (Cherry-Peach Pops)

6 large peaches, halved and pitted

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, or to taste

1 envelope (1 tablespoon) unflavored gelatin

1/3 to 1/2 pound cherries, pitted (about 1-1/3 cups pitted cherries)

Place peaches, sugar and vanilla in blender or food processor. Process until very smooth.

Place lemon juice in small bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over surface and let stand undisturbed 4 to 5 minutes, or until translucent. Mix well. Add to peach mixture and blend 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl. Add cherries and mix well.

Spoon mixture into individual Popsicle molds, wax-coated paper cups or any suitable mold, making sure cherries are distributed equally. Place in freezer 4 to 6 hours or until frozen solid.

Yield: 8 to 12 pops.

Creamy Banana and Choco-Caramel Cups

Lemon juice counteracts the cloying qualities of sweetened condensed milk and brightens the banana flavor in this whimsical dessert. You may adjust the amount of lemon juice to suit your taste.

6 medium bananas, peeled and halved

2/3 to 3/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Dash ground mace or nutmeg

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (1-1/3 cups)

Dash kosher or sea salt

6 tablespoons finely chopped peanuts, toasted

6 Carmello candy bars, finely chopped (place in freezer 45 to 50 minutes to make chopping easier)

Place bananas, lemon juice, mace, condensed milk and salt in blender or food processor. Process until very smooth. Transfer to bowl. Add peanuts and candy. Mix well.

Spoon mixture into 6 to 8 individual 1-cup containers (or muffin tins lined with foil baking cups). Evenly distribute peanuts and candy into cups. Cover tightly and place in freezer until very firm, 4 to 5 hours.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Coconut and Tropical Fruit Ice Cake

Serve thin slabs of this jewel-like frozen dessert on clear glass plates for a dramatic presentation. You may also cut it into cubes and serve in a pool of mango or raspberry sauce.

1 medium pineapple, peeled, cored and finely chopped (about 1 cup)

2 small papayas, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

1 mango, peeled, pitted and finely chopped

1/2 cup shredded sweetened coconut

2-1/2 cups guava-orange juice or other tropical fruit juice blend

Place pineapple, papayas, mango, coconut and juice in 5- by 9-inch loaf pan or any 8-cup capacity container. Mix well. Cover tightly and place in freezer until frozen solid, about 6 hours. Unmold and cut into 1/2- to 1-inch-wide slices.

Yield: 8 to 12 servings.

Chocolate-Hazelnut Satin

4 ounces cream cheese, softened to room temperature

1 quart whole milk

1 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped (or chocolate chips)

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

2 cups marshmallow cream

3 tablespoons hazelnut liqueur

1/2 cup finely chopped hazelnuts, toasted, for garnish, optional

Mint sprigs, for garnish

Place cream cheese in large bowl and set aside until needed.

Place milk, sugar and vanilla in heavy-bottomed, 4-quart saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat, stirring frequently to prevent mixture from boiling over or sticking to bottom. Reduce heat to moderate.

Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick enough to coat back of spoon, 25 to 30 minutes. Add chocolate. Remove from heat and stir constantly until chocolate is thoroughly melted. Cool to room temperature.

Add 1/2 cup chocolate mixture to cream cheese. Whisk vigorously to make smooth, lump-free paste. Slowly add remaining chocolate, whisking constantly until smooth and creamy (a few tiny lumps are OK). Using 8 custard cups, fill each 1/3 full with chocolate mixture. Place cups in freezer until semi-firm, 2 to 3 hours. Refrigerate remaining chocolate mixture until needed.

Meanwhile, whisk together marshmallow cream and hazelnut liqueur in medium bowl until smooth. Remove cups from freezer. To each cup, add 1/4 cup marshmallow mixture.

Taking care not to disturb marshmallow layer, gently spoon remaining chocolate mixture over top. Cover lightly and place in freezer until firm, but not frozen solid. Remove from freezer and unmold onto plates or serve containers with spoons. Garnish each with chopped hazelnuts and/or sprig of mint.

Yield: 8 servings.

Frozen Triple Berry Vanilla Bombe

This rose-colored bombe, studded with berries and crowned with raspberries, is far easier to prepare than its dramatic appearance suggests.

1-1/2 cups raspberries

1 cup coarsely chopped hulled strawberries

3/4 cup blueberries

1/4 cup berry-flavored liqueur

3 to 5 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 cup marshmallow cream

2 cups low-fat vanilla yogurt

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (1-1/3 cups)

1 tablespoon vanilla

Mint sprigs or berry liqueur, for garnish

Evenly distribute raspberries on bottom of bombe mold. Place in freezer until raspberries stick to pan, 30 minutes.

Combine strawberries, blueberries, liqueur and sugar in medium bowl and stir gently. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes or in refrigerator up to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, place marshmallow cream in large bowl. Mix in 1/2 cup yogurt and whisk until thoroughly combined. Add remaining yogurt, condensed milk, vanilla and reserved berries and liquid. Mix gently.

Slowly pour into bombe mold, taking care not to disturb raspberries. Cover tightly and place in freezer until frozen solid, about 6 hours. Unmold and slice into wedges. Garnish with mint sprigs or drizzle with berry liqueur.

Yield: 12 servings.

Frosty Ginger-Apricot Cream

Serve as a palate-cleanser between courses, an afternoon snack or at the close of a big meal.

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (1-1/3 cups)

1-1/2 cups nonfat vanilla yogurt

1/4 cup finely minced ginger root

8 apricots, pitted and finely chopped

1 tablespoon apricot or peach liqueur or brandy

1/4 teaspoon coconut extract, optional

Candied ginger for garnish, optional

Combine condensed milk, yogurt, ginger root, apricots, liqueur and coconut extract in large bowl. Mix well. Transfer to container. Cover tightly and place in freezer 1-1/2 hours.

Remove from freezer and mix thoroughly using large fork. Cover tightly and return to freezer 1 hour.

Remove and mix second time. Cover and return to freezer until frozen and very firm, about 5 hours. Spoon into serving bowls. Garnish with candied ginger.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.