Leading Men Lead The Fashion Parade

Not since the likes of William Powell, Cary Grant or Charles Boyer have men in suits looked so good.

After more than a decade of movies with guys in grunge, period costumes and Armani power suits, leading men are leading the fashion parade.

Just like the stars of “The Thin Man,” “To Catch a Thief” and the ‘60s’ “Ocean’s 11,” these high-toned wardrobes are setting trends.

“Every few years there’s a movie of note, but this year we’re seeing a lot of movies with men making the fashion statement, and I think these films - ‘GoldenEye,’ ‘Casino,’ ‘Nick of Time,’ ‘Get Shorty’ and the upcoming ‘Sabrina’ - will launch trends because people are hungry for elegance,” said Tom Julian, an international trend reporter and spokesman for the Fashion Association, a New York-based network of designers and manufacturers.

Julian noted that recent films such as “French Kiss” promised fashion trends, but didn’t deliver. “The clothes didn’t work because they were missing that element of design and market savvy that a designer can bring to the table,” he said.

“When it happens, sparks fly - Pierce Brosnan in ‘GoldenEye’ is a perfect example. His Brioni suits have the well-tailored look associated with Sean Connery and the early Bond movies, and Brosnan carries it off.”

Julian noted that John Travolta made an equally strong statement in “Get Shorty,” turning a gangster look into high-voltage fashion and setting the trend for monochromatic dressing, as well as polo-style sweaters.

It takes more than a good wardrobe and good looks. In Travolta’s case, for example, it has a lot to do with posture and attitude, Julian said.

Also furthering a trend to monochromatic ensembles is Robert DeNiro in “Casino.” DeNiro’s dapper suits often outshine Sharon Stone’s glittery gowns, said Rita Ryack, costume designer for the film.

“He’s not a new Cary Grant, but Bob (DeNiro) has that same kind of elegance in the film,” said Ryack. “His character is a calculated fashion statement, from his colorful suits to his tasteful gold cuff links.”

She modeled DeNiro’s wardrobe after the real-life character he portrays, with major inspiration also from Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin in “Ocean’s 11.”

DeNiro’s impeccable wardrobe of 70 costumes, made by studio tailor Tommy Valasco, is sure to inspire more retro trends, as it stems from the late ‘60s to early ‘80s, Ryack said.

“The styles worn by DeNiro are very in-your-face, made of Shantung silk, mohair and sharkskin, with silk shirts featuring long-point, locked collars modeled after those worn by real-life mob bosses.”

“Casino” co-star Joe Pesci also gives a fashionwise performance.

“He’s flashy, but his suits are not as expensive, as his character has different priorities,” Ryack said. “And his suits are darker because his character is more sinister, and he wears the long-point shirt collars throughout the film.”

In another example of a suit building character, Johnny Depp in “Nick of Time” “gives a conservative suit sex appeal,” said Mary Vogt, who designed his movie wardrobe.

“He has the elegance of Cary Grant in ‘North by Northwest’ or Jimmy Stewart in ‘Mr. Smith Goes to Washington,’ and his suit is very similar to theirs,” said Vogt, who bought Depp’s suit off the rack at a Nordstrom store and then washed it 10 times to make it look worn and casual.

It’s a new look for Depp. The actor makes dressing up so easy that Vogt thinks movie fans will copy the suit - and his Florsheim wing-tips.

Michael Douglas in “The American President” is another actor well-suited to the role of fashion maven.

“Douglas joins the serious elite with his tailored wardrobe and crisp white shirts,” Julian said. “Harrison Ford and Greg Kinnear also validate the look of old Hollywood in the upcoming ‘Sabrina’ with their playboy attire, including white dinner jackets and bow ties.”