For A Great Taste, Smother Shrimp

When the residents of New Orleans refer to barbecue shrimp, they’re describing a dish that never touches the grill.

Instead, it consists of the crustacean simmering in a pot of herb- and spice-saturated butter (or butter and oil); it could more appropriately be called smothered shrimp.

Health professionals who tout the virtues of seafood don’t include barbecue shrimp on their recommended list. But this being January, when all repentant diners are looking for ways to trim the fat, it seemed appropriate to reconsider the dish.

It’s popular because it is so delicious. The combination of shrimp and a highly seasoned, albeit almost total fat, sauce for dipping bread is unbeatable. What makes it so good, however, is the blend of seasonings, not the butter (well, in all honesty, it doesn’t hurt).

With an apology to Louisianans, here is a modest version of barbecue shrimp.

A sure method to keep fish low-fat is to steam, rather than saute, fry or even bake it, assuming most cooks dot the fish with butter before it goes into the oven.

Again, the way to assure great taste is to heap on the flavorings.

In the Chinese-inspired red snapper recipe that follows, the fish fillets are topped with limes, sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger juice and rice wine. It is tangy, salty and very satisfying.

Not-Quite-Barbecue Shrimp

1 medium shallot, peeled and minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tablespoon butter

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon crushed, dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup clam broth or juice

1/2 pound large raw shrimp in the shell

1 tablespoon minced parsley

Crusty bread

In skillet, saute shallot and garlic in butter until tender, about 5 minutes. Add bay leaf, oregano, crushed red pepper, chicken broth and clam broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low. Add shrimp. Stir and simmer 5 minutes or until shrimp turn red and firm. Remove bay leaf. Sprinkle with parsley.

To serve, spoon shrimp and broth into 2 soup bowls. Serve with bread for dipping. Include plenty of napkins and plate to hold shrimp shells. Serve hot.

Yield: 2 servings.

Steamed Snapper

2 (6-ounce) red snapper fillets (or one 12-ounce fillet, halved)

1 lime, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/2 tablespoon sesame oil, not dark toasted variety (see Note)

1 tablespoon rice wine

1 tablespoon minced green onion

1 teaspoon ginger juice (see Note)

Black pepper

Lemon wedges

Place fish fillets on each of 2 sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Arrange lime slices over each fillet.

Combine soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine, green onion, ginger juice and pepper in small bowl. Divide between packets, pouring half the mixture over each portion. Bring up edges of foil to enclose each portion.

Place packets on steam rack over boiling water in large pan. Cover and steam fish 15 minutes. Remove immediately. Carefully open packets and arrange on 2 dinner plates. Garnish with lemon wedges.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: To make ginger juice, grate 1 tablespoon fresh ginger root. Squeeze it by hand into bowl to yield 1 teaspoon juice. Discard solids.

If sesame oil isn’t available, substitute olive oil.

ILLUSTRATION: Photo

MEMO: Bev Bennett is food editor of the Chicago Sun-Times and author of four cookbooks.