‘Shroom Boom Exotic Mushrooms Are Gaining Popularity Among Diners Looking For Wild New Flavors

The exotic fungi market is mushrooming. Suddenly, there’s a whole world of mushrooms beyond the ubiquitous button. These wild varieties even answer to exotic names: portabello, shiitake, crimini, porcini, lion’s mane, king oyster and the gnarled-looking lobster mushroom.

While these mushrooms are one of the hottest things on the culinary landscape, they’ve been growing in the wild on decaying logs and on forest floors since the beginning of time.

It has only been recently, however, that the modern farming of these wild varieties has heated up.

Now, thanks to growers such as Ralph Tew - who cultivates oyster mushrooms and king oyster mushrooms at his home near Mount Spokane - creative cooks have greater access to these exotics. They are more readily available at supermarkets and specialty shops, including health food stores, and on menus at upscale restaurants.

Cannon Street Grill chef Jerry Schrader attributes the mushroom boom to a competitive restaurant scene where chefs are always trying to be on the cutting edge.

“It’s like anything that’s new,” he said. “We want diners to experience new, exciting things.”

It’s a trend area diners were slow to embrace.

“I think people have been wary of wild mushrooms because they might have suspected that they could die from eating the wrong mushroom,” said Everett Fees, who was the executive chef at Patsy Clark’s until he recently relocated to Portland. Many mushrooms found in the wild are indeed poisonous, although the cultivated varieties pose no threat.

“But I think people have gotten much more educated about what they’re eating,” Fees said. “And once they try them, they’re hooked.”

Wild mushrooms add heft to recipes. In addition to their delicate flavor, they can give a dish a meaty texture.

“They really add body to a dish,” Schrader said. “During cooking, they shrink down because the water evaporates and the flavor becomes more intense.”

Mushroom grower Tew, a vegetarian for the past 14 years, frequently substitutes mushrooms for meat in all sorts of recipes. Fees says a portabello mushroom brushed with olive oil and cooked on a barbecue grill is a dead ringer for a filet mignon.

Another part of wild mushrooms’ appeal is the chameleon-like nature of the fungus.

Take the shiitake, for instance.

This mushroom traces its roots to the Orient, so it’s not surprising that it’s a staple in many Asian-influenced dishes.

“It’s not overwhelmed by salty or spicy sauces,” Fees said.

The shiitake isn’t the only ‘shroom with a foreign pedigree. The portabello and porcini are longtime favorites among Italian cooks. Truffles, a mushroom that grows underground, are considered a national treasure of France (although they also grow in Oregon).

Other mushrooms native to the Northwest include chantrelles, lobster mushrooms, lion’s mane and morels. A small company in Vermont has developed a process for cultivating morels, but it’s a closely guarded secret.

Even with the increasing availability of these rare breeds, exotic mushrooms are still considered precious. Which may help explain their jaw-dropping price, averaging about $10 a pound.

“It’s a labor-intensive business with high energy costs,” Tew said.

The process is mostly science, partly an art and a little bit of luck.

He starts with a culture in a lab. After growth sprouts in the petri dish, Tew moves the plant to a climate-controlled room where it thrives on a mixture of sawdust enriched with rice bran. At that point the plant is called a mycelium. The fruit that eventually blossoms on the mycelium is the mushroom.

Luck comes into play during the delicate growing phase. Tew must keep the temperature constant year-round - about 60 degrees - and he uses equipment to regularly replenish the supply of oxygen. Unlike other plants, mushrooms take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide.

He strives to keep the room as sterile as possible because bacteria or another fungus can wipe out an entire crop.

The whole process, from petri dish to harvest, takes about two months. After starting the business last summer, Tew is just now getting to the point in production where he will always have a crop coming on.

And when it comes to mushrooms, freshness counts.

“It’s a lot like seafood,” Tew said. “The fresh ones are far superior to the ones that are shipped in or the dried ones. The other morning I picked them at 7:30 and had them at Harry O’s by 9.”

The delicate nature of the mushroom also means it has a relatively short shelf life. And once mushrooms have been purchased, they need to be handled with care.

Tew recommends storing them in the refrigerator in a breathable plastic bag.

“They are like little sponges, soaking up moisture, so you really shouldn’t wash them,” said Schrader. “They should be wiped with a paper towel or a mushroom brush. If you do wash them, they should be used right away.”

Schrader remembers hunting for morel mushrooms with his grandmother in North Idaho when he was a kid.

“I had no idea how special they were until I went to work in Los Angeles and found out they were considered exotic and they were expensive,” he said.

But the cost can be a bit deceiving.

“A pound of mushrooms is quite a lot of mushrooms,” Fees said. “A lot of people don’t perceive a good value, but it can be the main attraction of a dish. And if you think of it like buying a piece of salmon, it makes the price easier to swallow.”

Here’s the skinny on some of the fresh, wild mushrooms that are available in some supermarkets and specialty stores such as Harry O’s Fresh Market in Spokane:

Portabello: This mammoth mushroom looks something like the pesky mushrooms that sometimes grow on lawns. It can be as large as 10 inches across and has a robust, meaty flavor. The gills underneath the cap can be dark brown to black. Approximate cost: $10 per pound.

Enoki: These tiny mushrooms come in clusters and have a mild taste. They are best served raw in salads or as a garnish for hot dishes. Approximate cost: $1.99 for a 3.5-ounce package.

Shiitake: A favorite of cutting-edge chefs, these Oriental mushrooms are dark brown with velvety brown or striated caps. They have a pronounced smoky, steak-like quality. Stems are tough and should be trimmed. Approximate cost: $18.99 per pound.

Oyster: These delicately flavored mushrooms are pale gray to light brown and have elegant, fanshaped caps. They grow in unusual-looking clusters. When they are raw, they smell something like the bivalve for which they are named. Their creamy white cousin is the king oyster mushroom, which is said to have a superior flavor and a longer shelf life. Approximate cost of both: $10 per pound.

Mushrooms are a pleasure to cook. Most preparations are fairly straight-forward, but the results are often elegant. The following recipes were culled from “Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms” by Paul Stamets (Ten Speed Press).

Shiitakes in Burgundy Butter Sauce

This savory sauce can be served over rice, pasta or potatoes. Because fresh shiitakes are so expensive, you can use a combination of button mushrooms and the exotic variety.

3 tablespoons melted butter

1/2 cup chopped onions

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon ground chili powder

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 cup red wine

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon fresh, crushed garlic

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 pound fresh shiitake mushroom caps

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with cup cold water

In a skillet, saute the onions in the butter until transparent, then add water. Add the other ingredients, except the mushrooms and cornstarch and stir for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and turn the heat to low. Cover the skillet with a tightfitting lid and let simmer for 30 minutes. Thicken with the cornstarch and water mixture and serve alone or over rice.

Yield: 4 servings.

Chicken with Oyster Mushrooms

Oyster mushrooms add a delicate texture to this rich dish. Serve it over pasta or on its own.

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon cream sherry

1 tablespoon chopped prosciutto (see cook’s note)

12 ounces cooked chicken or turkey breast meat, cut into 2-inch strips

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 teaspoon fresh, crushed garlic

1 tablespoon onion, chopped finely

1/2 pound oyster mushrooms, sliced into 2-inch strips

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with cup cold water

Combine all the ingredients except the cornstarch mixture in a heavy skillet. Heat until simmering over a medium flame, then continue simmering over a low flame for 5 minutes. Thicken with the cornstarch and water mixture and adjust for salt as necessary. Serve hot.

Cook’s note: Prosciutto is a spicy, Italian cured ham that’s available in the deli section of most larger supermarkets.

Hot Mushroom Dip

This elegant appetizer showcases the versatility of the exotic mushrooms. They don’t get lost in the creamiest of sauces.

1 pound fresh button or wild mushrooms or a combination of both

6 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced onion

1 pound low-fat sour cream

2 vegetable or chicken bouillon cubes (or 2 teaspoons granules)

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons soft butter or margarine

Chop mushrooms quite fine and saute in pan with butter and lemon juice. Let simmer 5-10 minutes. Add onions, sour cream, bouillon granules, salt and pepper. Simmer 5-10 minutes more. Make a paste of the remaining butter and flour. Add to hot mixture and stir until thickened. Serve hot, in fondue pot or chafing dish, with chips, crackers, or fresh vegetables.

Cheese-Mushroom Quiche

This would be a standout at any brunch, or serve it with a salad for a light dinner.

Single pie crust

1 1/2 cups grated Swiss cheese

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, chopped

1/4 pound wild or button mushrooms, chopped

Dashes of salt, pepper and thyme

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

4 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk

3 tablespoons flour

Paprika

Prepare single pie crust. Cover bottom with 1 cups grated Swiss cheese. Meanwhile, saute in butter the onions, mushrooms, salt, pepper and thyme. Add to cheese in pie crust. Beat together the remaining five ingredients and pour over mushroom layer in pie crust. Sprinkle with paprika. Bake at 375 degrees for 40-45 minutes, or until center is firm.

Shiitake Teriyaki

This dish has many uses. It can dress up a roasted chicken breast or be served over rice alongside stir-fried vegetables. It can also work as a filling for won tons or pot stickers.

1 cup dried shiitake mushrooms

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 chopped green onions

1/4 cup sake

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

Sesame oil

Reconstitute 1 cup dried shiitake by covering with hot water and letting stand till caps are completely soft, about 30 minutes. Cut off and discard stems or reserve for stock. Squeeze excess liquid from caps and slice caps into 1/4 inch pieces. Place pieces in saucepan with sake, soy and light brown sugar. Bring to boil and simmer, uncovered, till liquid is almost evaporated, approximately 10 minutes, tossing the mushrooms occasionally. Remove from heat, cool and chill. Sprinkle with finely chopped green onions and a few drops of sesame oil.

ILLUSTRATION: Two Color Photos