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Lots A Salsa New Fruity Mixtures Add Zip To Any Dish

Kathy Casey Los Angeles Times Service

The traditional Spanish word for sauce, “salsa” today means much more than the tomato kind that comes in jars and keeps in the refrigerator for two months.

These days, salsas are healthy, colorful and boldly flavored - zippy mixtures of diced fruits and/or vegetables that are best eaten the day they are made. They can be spicy or sweet and sour, herb flavored or fruity, mellow or blistering hot.

They get their flavorings not only from Mexico but Morocco, Italy, Asia and the Caribbean. There are really no limits.

Perfect for summer, salsas are usually served chilled or at room temperature. They can accompany a big bowl of chips or top grilled fish, vegetables, poultry and meats. A Moroccan-inspired, preserved lemon and olive salsa is excellent over grilled lamb. I love Spicy MelonShrimp Salsa on grilled jumbo sea scallops.

Salsas perk up low-fat dishes, taking over for high-calorie, cream-reduction sauces and beurre blancs. Chefs now often opt for a smattering of apple relish and a drizzle of cider vinaigrette to top their grilled halibut. Spoon Pineapple-Mango Salsa alongside crab cakes or on grilled tuna.

Salsas also add pizazz to familiar foods. Try a refreshing Mediterranean Salsa on top of linguine tossed with fresh basil pesto.

The newly popular “wrap” - a large, colorful tortilla filled with rice, veggies and meat - is almost always spiked with some sort of salsa, such as mango, tomato or black bean and corn, for added flavor and texture.

If you prefer scooping up salsa with chips, there are still plenty of options. Your chip could be a thin slice of daikon radish or crostini (toasted rustic bread). The popular tomato bruschetta, for instance, is really a Mediterranean tomato salsa served with crostini.

Along with tomatoes, onions and peppers, salsas can include the likes of citrus fruits, zucchini, apples, mangoes, pineapples and pears. Some are seasonal, such as a summery Nectarine Salsa. In the fall, why not try an apple, sage and onion salsa, or, in the winter, a grapefruit, tangerine and mint mixture.

Salsas need a balance of sweet, spicy and tart. For the acidic component, a plethora of ingredients can be used, from vinegars, fruit vinegars and citrus juices to tangy tamarind paste. The sugar from the fruits is usually enough for sweetness, but if your fruit is not ripe enough, a pinch of sugar can be added.

The heat is a personal thing. I know some people who want almost to blow their heads off with chilies, but I like to be able to taste the main ingredients and just have a little spicy kick.

There are many ways to impart the heat. Chilies are the most common, including jalapenos, serranos, spicy chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, red chili flakes, cayenne pepper and Asian chili pastes. Other kicks can come from fresh or crystallized ginger, dry mustard, fresh horseradish and different types of peppercorns.

When it comes to herbs, there are again no boundaries. Cilantro is the most popular; other favorites include basil and mint. And any type of spice can be added for its distinctive characteristics, such as the toasted coriander seeds in Fresh Corn, Tomato and Avocado Salsa. Other choices might include cumin, star anise or curry powder.

Many salsas lose their brightness if kept too long, but they take only a few minutes to toss together.

Why not have a salsa bar with your next backyard barbecue? Grill up some succulent swordfish, shrimp, chicken or flank steak, and let your guests help themselves to three or four different toppers.

Fresh Corn-Tomato and Avocado Salsa

3/4 cup fresh corn kernels (cut from 1 to 2 ears)

1/4 cup finely diced onion

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and diced

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3/4 cup small diced ripe tomatoes, preferably romas

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons very finely minced fresh jalapeno pepper or to taste

1 teaspoon coriander seed, lightly toasted and crushed (see note)

Mix corn, onion, avocado, lime juice, tomatoes, cilantro, salt, jalapeno and coriander seed in medium bowl not more than 1 hour before serving.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Note: Lightly toasting coriander seed brings out its flavor. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat, add seeds and move around in pan until fragrant and lightly toasted (be careful not to burn). Immediately remove from pan onto cutting board to cool. When cool, cover with large piece of plastic wrap and crush by hitting with a mallet or heavy pan.

Pineapple-Mango Salsa

1 cup 1/4-inch diced fresh mango (about 1 medium)

1 cup 1/4-inch diced fresh pineapple

1/4 cup finely diced red onion

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger root

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes or to taste

1-1/2 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar

Mix together mango, pineapple, onion, cilantro, ginger root, chili flakes and vinegar in medium bowl not more than 4 hours before serving. Refrigerate.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Mediterranean Salsa

1 cups 1/4-inch diced tomatoes (see note)

1/4 cup chopped, pitted Kalamata or other black olives

1/4 cup finely diced onion

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon finely minced garlic

1-1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes or to taste

Mix together tomatoes, olives, onion, oil, vinegar, garlic, basil, salt and chili flakes in medium bowl not more than 1 hour before serving.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Note: For a supercolorful salsa, use a mixture of yellow and red tomatoes when in season.

Spicy Melon-Shrimp Salsa

3/4 cup 1/4-inch diced cantaloupe

3/4 cup 1/4-inch diced honeydew melon

1/4 cup chopped water chestnuts

1/4 pound coarsely chopped cooked bay shrimp

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon finely minced lime zest

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons Thai sweet chili sauce (see note)

Mix together cantaloupe, melon, water chestnuts, shrimp, mint, lime juice and zest, cilantro and chili sauce in medium bowl not more than 1 hour before serving. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Yield: About 2-1/2 cups.

Note: Thai sweet chili sauce is available at many Asian markets; there is really nothing else to substitute for its unique flavor.

Nectarine Salsa

2 large ripe nectarines, pitted and diced 1/4-inch (about 2 cups)

1 fresh jalapeno pepper or to taste, seeded and very finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon finely minced lime zest

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons minced red onion

1-1/2 teaspoons sugar or to taste, depending on sweetness of fruit

Mix together nectarines, jalapeno, lime juice and zest, salt, cilantro, onion and sugar in medium bowl not more than 20 minutes before serving.

Yield: About 2 cups.

MEMO: Kathy Casey is a restaurant consultant and food writer based in Seattle.

Kathy Casey is a restaurant consultant and food writer based in Seattle.