Pesto Makes A Delicious Topping For Pasta

When the herb garden is at its peak, I make pesto in large quantities. As a topping for pasta or grilled vegetables, a flavor enhancer for dull salad dressings or a surprise tucked into the folds of a steamy baked potato, pesto is my favorite summer sauce.

Traditional pesto is ground slowly between mortar and pestle (hence its name). Italian cooks revere it as an alternative to tomato or cream pasta sauces. The most common pesto calls for basil leaves, nuts and garlic, ground with a little oil and Parmesan cheese. This ancient Genoan recipe was adopted in the ‘80s by Americans and has become our favorite pasta topping.

But traveling in Italy taught me that pesto can be made from practically any garden herb. Italian cooks use whatever is handy and fragrant; parsley, tarragon, thyme, basil, oregano, marjoram, even mint make delicious pestos. One Italian cook passed on an additional secret: Add cooked potato to the pesto to offset any possible bitterness in the herbs (about 1 small, boiled and peeled potato per cup of basil leaves).

Although mortar and pestle render a properly pastelike pesto, I opt for the food processor. It’s quick and works just fine as long as I keep a light touch to prevent runny results. Too much processing makes a thin, liquidy sauce that doesn’t adhere well to pasta. I learned to first combine the stiffer ingredients - nuts, garlic, cheese, bread crumbs. Add the herbs or greens for a second’s pulsing. Oil goes last, just to moisten the mixture.

I make pesto in large batches because most can be frozen for up to six months without losing flavor. Pack the pesto into lightly oiled ice cube trays, then float a thin layer of olive oil on top to seal in flavor and color. When the pesto cubes are solid, flick them from the trays into small, labeled, self-sealing plastic bags.

If you use pesto frequently, spoon it into a clean jar, top with a thin layer of olive oil and refrigerate. The oil should be replaced as the pesto is used.

Although pesto is used in small quantities in most dishes, the oil and nuts in traditional recipes make it high fat.

Broiled Tomato Halves With Mint or Basil Pesto

Pesto can be as simple as chopping fresh garlic and herbs, then mashing them with a little oil and bread crumbs. This type of pesto is a wonderful topping for broiled tomato halves.

1 large garlic clove, finely minced

1/2 cup firmly packed chopped fresh mint or basil leaves

1/3 cup toasted whole-wheat bread crumbs

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil as needed

2 large beefsteak tomatoes, sliced in half widthwise

Combine garlic, mint, bread crumbs and pepper in small bowl with enough olive oil to moisten and make a paste.

Place tomatoes, cut side up, on broiler pan and broil 1 to 2 minutes or until lightly browned. Pat pesto over cut side of each slice and broil until lightly browned, watching carefully to prevent scorching. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings.

Fresh Herb Pesto

This unusual pesto can be added to marinades for grilled foods or used as a topper for hot pasta or boiled potatoes. I also like it instead of mayonnaise on grilled sandwiches.

1/4 to 1/2 cup toasted pine nuts

3 cloves garlic

1 cup chopped fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, marjoram, basil)

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

3 to 5 tablespoons olive oil

Finely chop nuts and garlic in food processor. Add herbs, parsley and oil and process just until blended, about 30 seconds.

Yield: 8 servings.

Parsley Pesto

This parsley pesto is milder than its basil cousin; try it over grilled polenta.

1/4 cup toasted whole-wheat bread crumbs

1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts or pecans

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups chopped parsley, including stems

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons nonfat plain yogurt

Salt, pepper

Blend bread crumbs, nuts and garlic in food processor until pastelike. Add parsley, oil and yogurt and process just until blended, about 30 seconds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Yield: 8 servings.

Pasta With Miso-Basil Pesto

This dairy-free and lower fat pesto replaces the Parmesan cheese with a small amount of miso paste, a flavoring used in Asian soups.

1/4 to 1/2 cup walnuts or pine nuts

2 tablespoons light miso paste

2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

4 cups fresh basil leaves

Hot cooked pasta

Pulse nuts, miso and garlic in food processor until pastelike. Add oil and basil and pulse until basil is incorporated, about 30 seconds. Toss with hot pasta.

Yield: 4 servings.