Skamania Lodge Has It All, In Middle Of Columbia Gorge
It took an act of Congress to create a rustic mountain resort and conference center near Stevenson, Washington. Set high above the Columbia River, the elegant yet simple Skamania Lodge is the result of a public-private partnership.
In the Scenic Area Act of 1996, $5 million was appropriated for constructing a “single, full-service, multi-purpose, self-contained meeting center with flexible facilities.” Skamania County decided to chip in another $5 million and the entire project was developed and managed by the same company that owns Salishan Lodge on the Oregon coast.
In the spring of 1993 I began to hear about the wonderful new resort located on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge, near Bridge of the Gods. I read the brochure and liked its advice: “When you come, bring a relaxed attitude, camera, a good book, tennis racket, hiking boots, golf clubs and for the more adventurous, a mountain bike or wind surfing gear.”
The golf course is a challenging 18-hole, par 70, cut out of the forest so that a golfer on one fairway cannot see the next. For those who do not play golf, equally fine tennis courts are available.
When I checked in at the lodge, there seemed to be another reception desk on the other side of the lobby. I soon discovered that this desk was manned by a forest ranger. The Forest Service will have a permanent presence in Skamania Lodge and provides information and interpretive services to guests each weekday.
Before I took the elevator to my room, I stepped into the Gorge room behind the lobby to look through cathedral-height windows at the breathtaking view of the Columbia River, backed by mountain peaks. Separating the room from the lobby was the most massive fireplace I have ever seen.
A profusion of art work is one of the most outstanding features of the resort. A collection of rubbings made from petroglyphs that are now flooded by the waters of Bonneville and John Day dams is displayed in public and private rooms. Valuable Native American rugs and baskets are exhibited. Works of Washington and Oregon artists also cover the walls, and a massive totem pole looks down at the entrance of the conference rooms.
My room had a fireplace and was decorated with Pendleton drapes and bedspreads especially designed for Skamania Lodge. In addition, two plush terry robes hung in the closet. The spectacular view of the river was repeated as I looked out of my fourth-floor window.
For me, half the pleasure of visiting a special hotel or resort is the dining room. Although pricey, my dinner at the Lodge was delicious. In keeping with a Northwest spirit, a woodburning oven yields a mouth-watering array of breads, meats, salmon and other regional favorites, all served with that astonishing view of the gorge.
I started with fire roasted garlic with herbed farmer’s cheese and tomato tapenade, then a salad of native greens with hazelnut vinaigrette, smoked tomato essence and salmon caviar and followed with braised lamb shanks accompanied with mint aioli, lentils and sweet peppers. I chose a bottle of Willamette Valley pinot noir to complement the meal.
At breakfast the next day, fresh-squeezed orange juice and an assortment of fresh breads accompanied the house speciality: Skamania Lodge hash, an innovative concoction of alder-smoked salmon and poached eggs.
The indoor recreation area of the lodge features a 60-foot pool enclosed in glass, with both indoor and outdoor hot tubs nearby. Even more impressive was the state-of-the-art exercise room. Private saunas also are available.
From spring through autumn, horses are available for riding mountain trails bordered by meadows of wild flowers. The trails are available year round for hikers and bird watchers who can order gourmet box lunches for their backpacks.
Almost overwhelmed by the choices, I spent a quiet half hour in the balcony library that overlooks the Gorge room. Several daily newspapers, as well as a fine assortment of books, could have kept me there for hours, but all pleasant visits must come to an end.
Skamania Lodge, P.O. Box 189, Stevenson, Wash. 98648; (509) 427-2540. Rates vary from $90 to $175 per night, depending on the room and the season. A round of golf is $32.
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