Home Away From Home Rvs Have Lots Of Appeal For Camping Crowd

Ever since I saw a giant RV roll into a Mount Rainier National Park campground and start rotating its rooftop satellite dish to pull in TV stations, I’ve sworn to stick to tent camping - preferably backpacking - to truly escape such wheeled apparitions.

The RV, big as a bus, had squeezed into a campsite next to mine. It was loaded: plush armchairs, thick carpet, a full kitchen with a microwave.

Why, I kept wondering, as the drone of the RV’s television drifted into my tent and its bright lights dimmed the view of the stars, would anybody bring all that stuff to the woods? Wasn’t camping supposed to be a way to get away from it all?

But this summer, a bit older and a bit mellower, I joined the ranks of RV campers.

I confess: I enjoyed it. And I’m ready to do it again, especially in the fall and winter off-season when camping with a roof over one’s head becomes quite appealing.

I won’t be alone whatever time of year I go. About 64 million Americans are campers (at some point in their lives), according to the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association. And almost half of them roll around the country in RVs.

The vehicle I rented for a family camping trip this summer - a Volkswagen EuroVan - is so small compared to many recreational vehicles that old hands may hardly consider it an RV.

But it has most of the same stuff the big rigs do, just in miniature and ingeniously wedged into a space not much bigger than a mini-van. It does lack fancy extras such as carpeting or a TV - and that was just fine by me.

In a week of camping in British Columbia, my husband and I and our 6-year-old daughter rolled along happily in our little house on wheels.

The EuroVan is the yuppie, 1990s version of the VW camper van so beloved by the generation that came of age in the ‘60s. It’s built in Germany; a Winnebago factory in the U.S. then outfits it as a camper.

It’s a big change from the decades-old VW vans. The EuroVan is front-wheel drive, with the engine in the front (the old ones had the engine in the rear). And it has about 20 percent more power than older VW vans, which were notoriously puny on hills.

Even for someone like me who’s accustomed to a compact car, the EuroVan is easy to drive.

It’s firm-riding, allows good visibility and is small enough that we could maneuver easily into campsites or city parking spaces - unlike some of the large, unwieldy RVs that get husbands and wives snarling as they try to park their land yachts.

As we drove B.C.’s back roads, our daughter, stretched out on the rear bench seat, was delighted to find she could raid the EuroVan’s built-in cupboards to get snacks without even unbuckling her seat belt. With her books and cassette tapes handy in another cupboard, she was content for hours of driving.

Once we arrived at a campground, we’d settle down with cold drinks from the fridge. It seemed almost decadent after years of drinking lukewarm Tang while tent camping.

The van’s “pop top,” was a magnet for our daughter and children from nearby campsites. The slanted canvas canopy of the pop top extends the roof so the van is tall enough, at one part, for virtually any adult to stand up straight. The kids would play in the pop top’s bed for hours.

At night, we’d unfold the lower bed from the rear seat and crawl in, reading by the built-in electric lights (they run on campground electrical hookups or on a battery) and untroubled by the rain squalls that sometimes swept through our West Coast campgrounds.

The EuroVan (and older VW campers) can sleep four, according to the brochures. My advice: don’t try it.

The two beds certainly are more comfortable than a tenter’s sleeping pad, but each is narrower than a double bed and there’s little storage - the built-in clothes cupboards hold the equivalent of about two suitcases of stuff. Four people soon would be at each other’s throats.

The van worked for the three of us, although one of us often slept in the tent we’d brought along for more space and quiet. And I wish I’d packed less and stowed it more efficiently so I wasn’t forever pawing through bags to find things and slinging stuff out of the way to unfold the beds or cook.

The EuroVan could make two people very happy campers.

A twosome could make use of its comforts without feeling too cramped - the propane-powered fridge, two-burner stove and heater; kitchen sink (cold water only); a dining table that unfolds.

Everything is little - the fridge is about the size of a hotel minibar fridge - but adequate. There’s even a small propane-fueled furnace.

About the only creature comfort the EuroVan lacks is a toilet (there’s not even a portable one). But there is a shower of sorts - a hose that stretches out of the rear of the van for outdoors wash-offs. We used it mostly to wash beach sand off our feet.

Renting a van or other RV opens up off-season camping.

Tent-camping can be miserable in the chilly rains of fall and winter. With an RV, there’s always somewhere warm and dry at the end of the day.

After a noisy night in a jam-packed campground during our summer trip, I longed for the half-empty, peaceful campgrounds of the off-season. Every camper has a tale of yahoos they’ve encountered somewhere along the road. We ended up camping right next to some one night at the otherwise lovely Miracle Beach Provincial Park campground on Vancouver Island.

They rolled in one afternoon in a couple of big RVs, started drinking at dinner and continued until 1:30 in the morning around their camp fire. The men bellowed out their dumb stories, the women screeched with hyena-like laughter, and the beer cans kept popping.

They were so belligerent that we were too nervous to go over and tell them to be quiet. And we couldn’t move to another campsite; the campground was full.

The next morning I glared toward the merry-makers, sleeping late in their RVs, and barely resisted making loud, offensive noises in retaliation.

Trouble is, more and more campgrounds are jammed in the summer prime-time, thanks in part to the increase in campers that RVs have brought in recent years. The pressure is especially acute in state and federal parks which have the most spacious campsites and the best locations.

Washington, British Columbia and Oregon are among states and provinces that have reservations systems so campers can reserve a spot at some state and provincial park campgrounds in summer (federal parks and national forest campgrounds in the Northwest remain mostly first come, first served). But the reservation phone lines often were swamped this summer, particularly in Washington.

By renting a RV, campers can beat the rush and camp in the off-season.

It won’t be warm, it probably won’t be sunny. But the scenery is equally dramatic; winter storms can be stunning to watch on the coast; and skiers could winter-camp in comfort in the mountains.

RV campers also can head to privately run RV campgrounds which have more amenities and electrical, water and sewage hookups for RVs. But there’s no need for hook-ups every night (although some of the big rigs can’t last too long without their mechanical umbilical cords).

In a week of traveling in the EuroVan, we never used hook-ups and didn’t need to refill the propane tank. However, we were sparing in our use of the stove and lights.

Complex as the EuroVan is, with its propane, water pump and electrical systems crammed into a small space, nothing went wrong on our trip. But I don’t have to worry about repairs since I’ll never own a EuroVan unless I win the lottery. The 1995 model we traveled in cost about $33,000 new.

For our family RV travels, we’ll keep on renting.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU RV Here’s some information on renting RVs and on finding campgrounds:

START SMALL If it’s the first time you’ve driven an RV, rent one of the smaller ones particularly if you’ll be exploring any cities. They’re easier to drive, easier to park and guzzle less gas. (Our EuroVan got about 22 miles to the gallon on highways.) Various types of rental RVs are available: Motorhomes range from about 17 to 40 feet in length; the kitchen and sleeping area are accessible via a walk-through from the driver’s area. Van conversions, such as the EuroVan, are similar to motorhomes but smaller (older-style VW campers are about 14 feet long; the EuroVan is about 16 feet long). Truck campers consist of a camping unit loaded onto a pickup truck. Trailers will suit only those whose vehicles - and driving skills - can handle them. Get clear instructions from the rental company on how to use electrical, water and propane systems. Have several adults listen: you can help each other on the road.

WHERE TO RENT I rented a 1995 EuroVan through Adventure Werks, a small Bellingham company. Its fleet includes about 30 VW camper vans of various styles. All have pop-tops, sinks, fridges and two or four beds. Rates are $600 a week for a EuroVan with 1,000 free miles; a daily rate is $90 or $100 a day depending upon the number of free miles needed. The Westfalia/ Vanagon is $500 a week, with daily rates starting at $85 per day. The 1970s classic campers are $350 a week; the daily rate begins at $55. Other unlimited mileage rates are available, and there are some off-season discounts (not on EuroVans). A $50 preparation fee is charged, and a minimum rental of one week is required in summer (no off-season minimum). Rent dishes and bedding - or mountain bikes and racks - for an additional fee. Vans can be picked up in the Seattle area or Bellingham, Wash. The company also rents VW vans out of Phoenix. Information: Adventure Werks, (800) 736-8897. One major RV rental company is Cruise America, with outlets across the country. The company’s smallest motorhome is 23 feet long; it costs $378 this fall for three nights. Phone (800) 327-7799. Consider buying insurance on the RV from the rental company, or at least doublecheck what your own auto insurance policy covers.

EUROVAN DRAWBACKS The VW EuroVan was ideal for my family; we spent little time in it except to drive and sleep. But those who like to spend more time relaxing at campsites would be more comfortable in a larger RV. You also need to be agile to climb into the EuroVan’s upper bed and unfold the lower bed. Anyone with knee or back problems should rent a bigger RV in which the beds don’t have to be unfolded. If you’re traveling with an infant or toddler, be aware that the EuroVan’s rear seat is too far from the front seats for a parent to simply reach over and hand the children toys or snacks. Our EuroVan and some other VWs are manual shifts; be sure to specify if you want an automatic.

WHERE TO GO The Pacific Northwest is rich in campgrounds, public and private, and many are open year-round. Campgrounds in state parks, national parks and national forests are generally more spacious and more screened by trees than those at privately run campgrounds. Some, such as the very popular Fort Canby State Park in southwest Washington, have electrical, water and sewer hookups. In some private campgrounds, RVs can be cheek-to-cheek. However, the private parks often have extra amenities such as swimming pools, mini-stores and social/recreation rooms (plus hook-ups). Private RV parks are listed by geographical area in the “Washington State Lodging and Travel Guide.” It’s available free by phoning (800) 544-1800. To get a directory of the private RV campgrounds in the state, ask the Washington Association of RV Parks and Campgrounds, phone (206) 298-2589. To find out about state-park campgrounds, ask Washington State Parks, (800) 233-0321. To find out about campgrounds in national parks and national forests in Washington, contact the Outdoors Recreation Information Center in downtown Seattle, 220-7450. British Columbia’s “Acccommodations” guide lists private RV parks as well as campgrounds in provincial parks. It’s available free from Discover B.C., the provincial tourism office, (800) 663-6000. For information about in Oregon, phone the Oregon Tourism Commission, (800) 547-7842.

CAMPGROUND RESERVATIONS Make reservations at the most popular state parks in Washington and Oregon through Reservations Northwest, (800) 452-5687. In Oregon, reservations can be made year-round at some parks. In Washington, campsites can be reserved for April 1 to Sept. 30 at 46 parks; reservations can be made 11 months in advance. In British Columbia, reservations can be made at more than 40 provincial parks starting March 1, 1997 for mid-March into October. Phone Discover Camping, (800) 689-9025, (the phone service is closed until March). It’s first come, first served during the off-season at Northwest parks.

BOOKS, BROCHURES Several useful books on Northwest campgrounds are: “Washington State Parks,” by Marge and Ted Mueller and “Oregon State Parks” by Jan Bannan. They describe the camping, hiking, fishing and year-round attractions at parks in both states. Both are published by The Mountaineers (Seattle) and cost $14.95 each. Also, “Natural Wonders of Idaho: A guide to parks, preserves and wild places” (Country Roads Press, $9.95). The Go Camping America Committee, run by several RV industry groups, offers a free brochure on RV camping. Phone (800) 47-SUNNY. - Kristin Jackson Seattle Times