In Praise Of Pears They’re Ready, But What Exactly Can To Do With Them?

Pears are hanging heavy, green and russet, on trees all over the Pacific Northwest. Cooks are eyeing them with anticipation, breathing in their perfume, and saying, “What the heck am I supposed to do with these things?”

Even here in Washington, one of the premier pear-growing regions of the country, a lot of people remain baffled by pears. I count myself in that company.

I have my own pear tree, producing dozens of beautiful pears every September, but I have never figured out how to handle these delicate fruits, or how to cook them.

With the help of various reference books and a beautiful new cookbook titled “Pears,” by Linda West Eckhardt (Chronicle Books, $16.95), I set out to learn.

Here is what I found:

How to pick a pear - Pears, unlike most fruit, ripen better off the tree than on. So they should be picked when mature, but not yet ripe. The rule is the same if you’re picking from a supermarket bin: Choose firm fruit, not soft. If it’s already soft, chances are it is already too mushy inside. Pick green, firm pears, and after a few days in your kitchen, they will be perfect.

How to ripen - Simply let your pears sit at room temperature in a fruit bowl or in a paper bag. If they started green and firm, they should be ripe in about four to six days. If you like to eat pears with a little bit of crispness, or if you are using the pears for cooking, use them when they are still slightly underripe. If you want them to be fully ripe and juicy, wait until they yield to gentle pressure at the stem end and the perfume is filling the kitchen. Once they are ripe, but not before, refrigerate them. Don’t let them go overripe (soft, brownish bruises), or they will be useless.

When is pear season? - We’re in the peak of it, especially for Bartletts, the most popular variety. Mature Yakima Valley pears are in markets right now. The California Bartletts peak in August and September, but should be available through November. The local crop of Green Bluff pears should mature about now, but the yields are light this year because of wet and cold spring weather.

Winter pears, such as the D’Anjou and Comice, are available beginning in October and through the winter.

The history and lore of the pear - The pear is native to the temperate areas of Europe and Asia, but is small and bitter in its wild state. However, cultivation has improved it immensely. Even Homer wrote of pear orchards, which means that cultivation of the pear is ancient indeed. In medieval Europe, it was often made into a cider called perry or perry wine.

The fruit that gets no respect - The scent is so overwhelming and the fruit is so beautiful, you might expect it to be the queen of fruits. Nope.

The pear has been called the apple’s “poor relation.” The U.S. grows four times as many apples as pears; Europe grows three times as many.

The reason, according to Waverly Root’s “Food” reference book, is that apples are easier to bring to high quality everywhere. Pear trees are fussier, and the fruit is less uniform from region to region, orchard to orchard, even tree to tree. They’re just plain harder to grow.

What is the best use for pears? - How about breakfast, lunch and dinner?

Everybody knows how good a ripe pear can be eaten out of hand. But as Eckhardt’s book makes clear, pears are as versatile in cooking as the apple.

You can make pear salsa, pear soups, pear salads, pear salmon, pear teriyaki, pear stir-fries, pear chutney, pear pancakes, pear breads, pear dumplings, pear pies, pear tarts, pear pandowdies, pear cakes and pear ice creams.

I’ll give you some of these recipes in a moment, but first let me share some of Eckhardt’s impromptu dessert suggestions, which involve practically no preparation. For instance, you can take peeled pear halves, put them on a plate, and cover them with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce and sour cream (“beats the heck out of a banana split,” she says).

Or simply dip wedges of pear in chocolate sauce or cognac.

Or put some pear halves on a plate, sprinkle with rum, brown sugar and lemon juice, and broil until bubbly and hot. Top with ice cream.

Here are some of the fancier recipes from Eckhardt’s cookbook:

Pear-Ginger Cream Soup

1 tablespoon butter

1 onion, finely chopped

3 pounds underripe pears of the season, cored, peeled and chopped (about 6 cups)

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 quarts (8 cups) homemade or canned low-salt chicken broth

2 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh ginger 1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream

Garnish:

3 tablespoons crystallized ginger, chopped

3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

Edible flowers such as pansies or nasturtiums (optional)

Melt the butter over low heat in a heavy soup pot, then add the onion and cook for 5 minutes or until the onion becomes translucent. Add the chopped pears. Cook, uncovered, until the pears are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cinnamon, chicken broth, and fresh ginger. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, lift out the solids and transfer them to a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or a blender. Process to a smooth puree, then return the puree to the soup. Stir in the cream and heat through.

To serve, spoon the soup into individual bowls and top with crystallized ginger and chives. Float an edible flower in the soup if you wish. Serve at once.

Yield: 10 (1-cup) servings.

Seared Scallops and Pears with Lemon-Vodka Sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

8 ounces large sea scallops

2 large ripe Bartlett, Anjou or Bosc pears, cored, peeled and halved

8 ounces fresh fettuccine, or 4 ounces dried

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh chives for garnish

Lemon zest for garnish

Lemon-vodka sauce:

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream

2 tablespoons vodka

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1 teaspoon of the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat until the butter foams. Saute the scallops for about 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until golden, turning once. Transfer to a warmed plate, cover, set aside, and keep warm.

Wipe out the pan with a paper towel, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon butter, and heat over medium-high heat until the butter foams. Place the pears in the pan, cut-side down, and saute until golden, 2 to 3 minutes, then turn and cook the rounded side until golden. Remove from heat and keep warm.

At the same time, fill a 4-quart pot with salted water and bring it to a full boil. Drop the fettuccine into the boiling water and cook for about 2 minutes for fresh pasta and about 8 minutes for dried, or until al dente. Drain.

To make the sauce, mix the lemon juice and zest and set aside. Combine the cream and vodka in a small saucepan and boil for 3 minutes. Add the chives and mixed juice and zest, and boil for 1 minute, or until thickened.

Toss the hot pasta with the sauce. Divide between 2 warmed dinner plates. Top with seared scallops and season with salt and pepper. Arrange 2 pear halves on either side of the scallops on each plate. Garnish with chive pieces and lemon zest and serve at once with a tossed salad and a loaf of crusty bread.

Yield: 2 servings.

Cinnamon Poached Pears with Hot Fudge Sauce

2 cups water

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Zest of 1/2 lemon

1 (3-inch) piece of cinnamon stick

2 whole cloves

4 firm, ripe Bosc, Anjou or Bartlett pears

Hot Fudge Sauce (recipe below)

4 fresh mint leaves for garnish

In a 2-quart microwaveable casserole, mix the water, sugar, lemon juice, zest, cinnamon and whole cloves. Cover and microwave on high for 4 minutes.

Meanwhile, leaving the stems on, core the pears through the bottom using a small melon baller, then peel them. Cut a thin slice off the the bottom so the pears will stand up. Place the pears in the hot syrup, spooning syrup over the pears to coat thoroughly. Cover and microwave on high for about 10 minutes, turning the dish after 5 minutes. Spoon the syrup over the pears again, cover and let them cool in the syrup. Refrigerate overnight.

To serve, puddle a little hot fudge sauce onto dessert plates. Top each with a poached pear, then spoon 1 tablespoon of sauce over the top. Garnish with a mint leaf.

Yield: 4 servings.

Hot Fudge Sauce

1/4 cup heavy (whipping) cream

2 tablespoons milk

1/2 cup sugar

2 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

In a medium microwaveable bowl, mix the cream, milk and sugar. Microwave uncovered on high for 2 minutes, stirring halfway through. Add the chocolate squares and microwave on high for 30 seconds. Stir the melting chocolate into the mixture, then add the butter and almond extract. Stir to mix.

Yield: 1/2 cup.

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