Hogue Gets A New Look

We’ve all heard that we shouldn’t judge a book by its cover - or a wine by its label. But let’s face it, people do respond to the way a product is presented.

For those comforted by the familiar, Hogue’s slick new look might come as a bit of a shock. On a skinny strip of the winery’s signature blue paper, the Hogue label runs vertically, requiring customers to crane their necks if they want to read the writing.

There is nothing quite like it on the shelf. It’s a real grabber, and, fortunately, the wine inside the bottle will hold your attention as well.

I recently sampled the ‘95 dry riesling and found it light and pleasant with a easygoing honeydew taste. The ‘95 gewurztraminer was bursting with juicy pineapple and apricot flavors. Its crisp edge made it a great match for some smoked salmon egg rolls.

Winemaker David Forsyth said semillon is still a hard sell, and I cannot imagine why. The ‘95 semillon is an attractively priced dry white wine with a pleasant citrusy quality that has as much class as most chardonnays - and, in many cases, goes better with food than that overrated white. What’s the problem? Try it. You’ll like it.

At the risk of contradicting myself, I did enjoy the ‘95 chardonnay. It was buttery, but balanced with some lipsmacking acidity. It had a little lighter body and more fruit than those super-rich chards from California.

The ‘92 reserve cabernet was a powerhouse, a brawny wine that had hints of bittersweet chocolate and cherries. It stood up beautifully next to a grilled steak.

Finally, this state’s excellent dessert wines are underappreciated, and they are certainly among the best values on the shelf. Indulge in Hogue’s wickedly good ‘96 late harvest riesling. My notes about this wine say simply: “A gorgeous blast of fruit.” Have a glass with a warm apple tart. Yum.

Hogue is also introducing a new line labeled “Genesis,” which will explore offbeat varietals (cabernet franc, pinot gris, barrel-fermented semillon and syrah, among others) and exciting trends including organic wines. Look for those releases next fall and beyond.

Here’s a bit of Hogue trivia: the winery’s first vintner was Mike Conway (now at Latah Creek), who produced 20,000 cases in 1982. Last year, 270,000 cases were produced by Hogue.

A barrel of fun

Spokane’s wineries want you to belly up to the barrel.

OK, not literally, but you will be able to sample wines directly from those oak containers during the annual spring barrel tasting, May 16-18.

Sipping these young, unfinished wines is a real eye-opener, demonstrating the importance of taking the wine through the lengthy aging process.

During the weekend-long festivities, visitors can also sample new releases and gourmet goodies at each spot. They will all be open from 11 a.m. until 5 p.m. for those three days.

Call any of the wineries - Latah Creek, Caterina, Worden’s, Knipprath, Mountain Dome and Arbor Crest - for additional details.

Small town, big party

For six years now, the folks in Odessa, Wash., have been throwing a dandy wine tasting each spring. This year, the fun starts at 7 p.m. Friday at the Odessa Old Town Hall.

The money raised during this event goes to the Odessa Healthcare Foundation, which buys equipment for the local hospital among other projects.

Along with being a good cause, this is a good deal at $15 a ticket. Spend the night at the Odessa Motel or The Derr House Bed and Breakfast and then hit the links on Sunday morning. (They have a cute 9-hole course on the outskirts of town.)

This year, a variety of microbrews have been added to the mix. Sip a few and bid on all sorts of auction items including a vacation at Rosario Resort on Orcas Island and the Green Gables at Schweitzer Mountain Resort.

You can buy tickets at the door, or call (509) 982-2611 for information on advance purchase.

Read about reds

Washington’s outstanding merlots were given a big boost in the April issue of The Wine Enthusiast, a publication far superior to the elitist Wine Spectator.

The Enthusiast gushed about the ‘94 vintage, saying the state produced the highest percentage of outstanding merlots in the country.

Among the top producers listed (with wines still available) were Apex, Barnard Griffin, Canoe Ridge, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Chinook, Columbia Crest, Columbia, Covey Run, Gordon Brothers, Hogue, Hyatt, Kiona, L’Ecole No. 41, Portteus, Preston, Seven Hills, Tefft Cellars, Waterbrook and Yakima River.

Adjectives aplenty

Ever been stumped about how to describe a wine’s flavor or aroma?

Beringer Vineyards has come up with an easy-to-use wheel that helps identify certain characteristics in reds and whites.

Does a wine have a fruity quality? The wheel suggests a variety of adjectives such as berry jam (I’m going to have to use that one), strawberry or fruit candy. An herbaceous note might prompt descriptions of green bean bell pepper or earth. (There’s a fine line between dirt and earth, right?)

To receive a tasting wheel, send $3 to Beringer Vineyards’ Fulfillment Center, 615 Airpark Rd., Napa, CA 94558.

Wine and song

Chateau Ste. Michelle’s elegant grounds in Woodinville, Wash., seems the perfect setting for a picnic with a bottle of wine.

And the winery has sweetened the prospect of outdoor noshing by putting together an impressive lineup of diverse performers for its summer concert series.

This year, the season kicks off June 6 with The Gipsy Kings, followed by Kenny G on June 7 and 8. Other highlights include Mary Chapin Carpenter on July 1, Tom Jones on Aug. 31 and The Seattle Symphony on Sept. 13.

Ticket prices vary for each performer. Call Ticketmaster at (206) 628-0888 for a more detailed list of performances and for ticket prices.

, DataTimes MEMO: Grapevine is a monthly feature of IN Food. Write to: Grapevine, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5486, fax 459-5098 or e-mail to lesliek@spokesman.com

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review