Mountain Majesty Sun Mountain Lodge Expands To Full-Blown Resort
Let’s say a pair of cross-country ski fanatics had $600 to blow.
They could spend it on the latest Rossignol skinny skis, super-hero Lycra or boots like something Dennis Rodman might wear to his own wedding.
Or, they could take their old gear to Sun Mountain Lodge, eight miles from the central Washington tourist town of Winthrop, for a weekend they’d never forget.
If they choose Sun Mountain, there will be plenty of room. Washington’s premier Nordic ski resort expanded this winter.
As in the main lodge and the Gardner building, each of the 24 rooms in the new Mount Robinson Building features a view that surely rivals any in North America. Guests gaze at Cascade Mountain peaks tinged pink with the first and last light of day.
Two thousand feet below the lodge is the pastoral Methow Valley. (Pronounce it MET-how to avoid sounding like a tourist.)
It’s a view to enjoy while soothing trail-weary muscles in the whirlpool bath or warming next to the gas fireplace. It’s a view to wake to, from under a king-size comforter.
It’s a view to contemplate over a meal of Ellensburg lamb, smoked duck breasts or chinook salmon smothered in caramelized orange marmalade from the lodge restaurant. Like the lodge itself, Sun Mountain’s restaurant boasts a four-star rating from the American Automobile Association.
First opened in 1968, the mountain-top resort remained the hideaway of a few knowledgable skiers and hikers until 1990. That year, German owners completed work on a new Sun Mountain Lodge that stayed true to the original use of massive timbers and local craftsmanship.
The theme was carried over to the ruggedly cozy Mount Robinson Building, with walls encased in cedar with black enamel accents.
Headboards and rockers are crafted of willow. Fixtures and lamps were hand-forged by a Methow Valley blacksmith. A locally made teak desk is wired for computers with fax-modems, if visitors simply must work.
There are no televisions in the rooms. Piped-in classical music, which can be turned off if desired, drifts down from speakers hidden in the cathedral ceilings.
In addition to the restaurant and lounge, the main building offers ski and gift shops, a workout room, two outdoor hot tubs open year-round and two pools open in summer.
Guests who come to ski may find themselves seduced into spending the weekend inside, wrapped in one of the thick terry robes provided by the lodge. The temptation should be resisted, for outside the door lies some of the Northwest’s best cross-country skiing.
The Methow Valley Sports Trail Association grooms about 175 kilometers of trails. Some start at the lodge, while others are a short drive away.
Clerks at the lodge’s ski shop provide daily reports of trail conditions, and can recommend trails that best suit a visitor’s abilities and style.
The lodge rents skis, and offers lessons for beginners or those making the switch from traditional kick-and-glide skiing to skate-skiing. (Fly-fishing lessons are offered in summer.)
Prices at Sun Mountain may rattle folks who turned to cross-country skiing to avoid the high cost of lift tickets.
Otherwise, weekend rates start at $190 a night in the Mount Robinson Building or $125 in the main lodge. Rates are slightly lower during midweek.
Most restaurant entrees range from $20 to $30. Figure on spending $70 on a dinner for two with salads, appetizers and desserts; more, if wine is ordered.
A breakfast of sauteed smoked pheasant mixed with eggs and topped with cheese sells for $9.50. Vanilla almond French toast with strawberries is $7.50.
Even the skiing on the community trails is expensive: $13 a day or $30 for three days. (Children under 12 ski free.) The money goes toward grooming, patrolling and maintaining the trail system.
Cross-country ski packages that include three nights lodging, dinners, breakfasts and a trail pass start at $295 per person, based on double occupancy.
Still, there’s hope for a family on a budget. Rates in the spring and fall, when skiing may not be available but the view is just as stunning, start at $54 a night.
And Winthrop has a variety of restaurants, although it may be difficult for guests to tear themselves away from the lodge.
Judging from the pickups parked out front, locals eat at Sam’s Place, where breakfast starts at $3.50 and a steak dinner can be had for about the price of an appetizer at the lodge. There’s nothing fancy here, just generous servings and a few tables reserved for non-smokers.
The Riverside Grill offers bistro-style dining, with an impressive assortment of wines and beer. The restaurant’s gourmet pizzas and desserts offer a middle-ground between Sam’s heavy dinners and Sun Mountain’s hefty prices.
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MEMO: Sun Mountain Lodge can be reached at 1-800-572-0493.