Planning A Path Trails In Your Yard And Garden Can Be For Practical Use Or Just An Invitation To Explore

Paths and walkways are functional, beautiful additions to any landscape. A well-placed path or two or three provides the definition and sense of purpose that every garden needs. In doing so, it can actually make a small space seem more expansive.

For inspiration, visit public gardens and parks to see just how wonderful paths can be. Then use the following guidelines to plan your own paths at home.

Practical paths

In every yard there are a few well-traveled routes, such as from the driveway to the doorway, and between work stations such as the tool shed, compost heap, vegetable garden, flower bed and grill. These paths should be quite direct - you don’t want to follow a circuitous route as you work in the garden.

To plan practical paths, look for signs of wear in the yard. The worn grass will tell you where one is needed.

Strolling paths

A path that winds through a garden is an invitation to explore. It allows you to appreciate a garden from fresh perspectives. This kind of path needs neither a direct route nor a final destination, though it should lead to features you want to visit or display: a bench in a secluded spot, a breathtaking view, a fountain or statue, a bush that flowers in the summer and looks striking in the winter.

Straight lines and right angles are appropriate for formal settings. A path that curves gracefully from one feature to the next is lovely in any garden. On a hill, a wide curve makes the going easier, or you can set a few big stones into the incline as an informal staircase.

How wide should a path be? A width of about 3 feet is appropriate for many paths; for two people to stroll side by side, increase the width to 4 to 5 feet. If you will be using a wheelbarrow or lawnmower on the path, don’t leave the size to guesswork. These tools are often very wide, so measure them and plan accordingly.

Materials

A path should complement its surroundings, including the house, any structures in the garden and the garden itself. Good, well-kept grass makes a lovely path in almost any setting, and stone edging gives it more definition. Moss makes a natural, soft (if slippery) path.

In a wooded area, shredded bark mulch, small bark chips and pine needles are fitting choices. Gravel is good in an informal garden. Crushed shells are a perfect match for a beach house.

These loose materials should be underlined with weed-block fabric, and they require topdressing once a year to replenish lost material.

Stone and brick paths offer permanence and stability underfoot. Stepping stones inlaid into the grass are easy to install yourself (see instructions below). Concrete is serviceable and smooth, though not as attractive as other materials.

Stones can also be set into mortar in myriad designs and styles, though this is a job for professionals.

Installing a stepping-stone path

Before you purchase stones, roughly map out the path to get an idea of how many you’ll need. The spacing of the stones is determined by the path’s use: For a utilitarian path, place them far apart, encouraging brisk strides. For a strolling path, place them closer together, for small, slow steps.

Buy stone from a local stone yard, where you will find the best selection. Square or rectangular stones of the same size give a more ordered look, but mismatched shapes and sizes also make a charming path.

1. Lay out the stones on the lawn or in the garden to decide exactly where you’ll put them. Adjust the spacing according to the size steps you want to take when walking along the path.

2. One at a time, cut around a stone with a square-headed shovel. Move the stone aside, and excavate the grass and dirt within the marked border just deeper than the thickness of the stone.

3. Pour sand into the space to a depth of half an inch. Lay the stone into place, lifting it to add more sand beneath it as necessary for a solid, level fit.

4. Add more sand around the edges, packing it in with your hands. Water around the stone, making the sand more compacted. Fill in any remaining gaps with additional sand.

The stones won’t get in the way when you cut the grass because the mower’s blades are always set a couple of inches above the ground. You’ll be able to push the mower over the stones without coming into contact with them.

MEMO: Questions should be addressed to Martha Stewart, care of The New York Times Syndication Sales Corp., 122 E. 42nd St., New York, N.Y. 10168. Questions may also be sent to Stewart by electronic mail. Her address is: mstewart@marthastewart.com.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Martha Stewart New York Times Syndicate