Latkes get new twist for Hanukkah
The traditions of Hanukkah derive from the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days – and, on the table, often include fried foods, especially latkes.
Jeff Nathan, chef of Abigael’s at the Museum, the cafe at downtown New York’s Museum of Jewish Heritage, has created his own version of this old favorite.
“Every year when Hanukkah is just around the corner,” he says, “while my appetite dreams of ‘latkes,’ my brain is dreaming of ‘what else?’
“I’m thrilled with this Provencal version – the creaminess of the melting goat’s cheese with the brininess of the olive complement the olive oil that the latkes were fried in. They’re so wonderful. I’ve served them at several brunches throughout the year.”
Provencal Potato Latkes with Roasted Red Pepper Relish
From “Jeff Nathan’s Family Suppers”
For the Roasted Red Pepper Relish:
Two 14-ounce cans roasted red peppers, drained and cut into 1/2 -inch dice (about 1 3/4 cups)
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, basil, and oregano in any combination
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped roasted garlic
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the Provencal Latkes:
4 large russet potatoes, peeled (2 pounds)
1 pound yellow onions
2 large eggs, beaten
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon fennel seed, toasted, optional
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil, for frying
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
To make the relish: Combine all the ingredients and season with the salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature while making the latkes. (The relish can be made up to 5 days ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
To make the latkes: Using the large holes of a box grater or the grating disk of a food processor, alternately grate the potatoes and onions into a work bowl (this provides better distribution of the onions). Using your hands, squeeze out as much moisture as you can from the potato mixture. Add the eggs, flour, parsley, garlic, basil, oregano, thyme, fennel (if using), and the salt and pepper, and mix well.
Add enough oil to a large, deep skillet to come 1/2 -inch up the sides (do not skimp!) Heat over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. In batches without crowding, using about 1/4 cup of the potato mixture for each pancake, carefully add the mixture to the oil, spreading it with a spoon to make 3-inch pancakes. Fry, turning once, until deep golden brown on both sides. Use a slotted spatula to transfer to the baking sheet.
Serve immediately or keep warm in the oven while making the remaining pancakes. Drain off any excess liquid that forms in the bowl as you make subsequent batches. Serve hot with the relish.
Dairy variation: Add 2/3 cup crumbled goat cheese to the relish. Gently fold the cheese into the relish so the cheese doesn’t break down.
Yield: About 20 latkes, 5 to 6 servings.
Nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.