Onions remain an absolute cooking essential

Maggie Waldron, food expert, author and editor, said, “It’s probably illegal to make soups, stews and casseroles without plenty of onions.” I agree. It’s one of the foods I always make sure I have on hand. It’s as essential as salt in much of my cooking, and I thank the harvest gods that they’re available all year.

Cooked or raw, onions are a flavoring agent, but they also stand on their own as a side dish, particularly with red meats.

Medium-to-large onions make a delicious entree when partially hollowed out and filled. And they look good too. Featured here is a large yellow onion filled with very thin pasta flavored with herbs. (White sweets such as the Spanish, Vidalia, Walla Walla or Texas sweet varieties do well too.)

Second is a side dish to accompany poultry, meats or fish, or to solo in a hero chunk of French or Italian bread.

Oh, yes, onions are low in calories and contain a generous amount of a nutrient called quercetin, which may protect against cataracts, cancer and cardiovascular disease. They also contain certain natural chemicals that are believed to lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels.

Pasta Stuffed Onions

4 large yellow onions

2 teaspoons olive oil, divided

8 ounces dry capellini pasta

4 ounces thin sliced pancetta or bacon, diced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 cup chicken stock

2 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley

Wash onions, leaving outer skins on. Cut off about ¼ of top at blossom end. Place onions and tops cut side down on baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Bake in 350 F oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour until soft inside. Remove from oven; set aside to cool.

Cook capellini pasta until al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. Rinse in cool running water. Drain well; toss with remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil. Set aside. Cook bacon or pancetta in saute pan until crisp. Drain and set aside.

When onions have cooled, scoop out centers leaving 2 layers of onion and skins intact. Reserve shells. Julienne insides of cooked onion. Place in heavy saucepan with butter, salt, pepper and thyme. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often until caramelized.

When ready to serve, re-heat onion shells and tops in 350 F oven for about 10 minutes. Heat caramelized onions with balsamic vinegar, chicken stock and pancetta. Test for seasonings. Add pasta and heat through in sauce. Add parsley; toss well. Place pasta inside onion shells. Serve with tops slightly askew. Makes 4 servings.

Mediterranean Onion Saute

4 yellow or white onions, sliced in rings

Pinch saffron powder (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

2 teaspoons olive oil

Break apart onion slices into individual rings and place in large mixing bowl. Mix saffron, salt and pepper. Mix in fresh herbs. Sprinkle seasoning mixture over onion rings, tossing to combine evenly.

Heat oil over medium heat in nonstick pan. Add onions and saute about 8 minutes, or until onions are tender. Makes 4 servings.