Better hurry: baby artichokes are in season

They’re coming — the baby artichokes I’ve been waiting for for weeks. These are the little artichokes that range from walnut to lemon size and are so fine that, when properly trimmed, are entirely edible. Actually, “baby” is probably a misnomer, for they are not immature. They are small because their growth is “stunted,” you might say, since they grow under the shade of the giant leaves of the plant. Their peak season is from mid-April through May. If you don’t see them in your market, speak to the produce manager.

And if you haven’t tasted these delicate babies, do buy them. They can be sauteed, steamed, braised or microwaved, cooked in broth or in a sauce. I saute diced onion and celery, add a can of whole tomatoes, crushed, and basil, simmer that about a half-hour, add the artichokes and cook them for 15 minutes or so or until they are fork-tender. Delicious is the only word to describe them. If sauce is left, I freeze it and later cook potatoes or green beans or both in it. Another delicious change in side dishes.

To prepare them, rinse them under cold running water. Set out a bowl of cold water; add 3 tablespoons lemon juice (called acidulated water) to keep artichokes from discoloring. Cut off the stems (I usually leave on about 1/2 inch of stem and peel it because I like the taste and texture). Cut about 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the green tops. Drop the artichokes into the bowl of acidulated water. Snap off the outer leaves until you reach leaves that are yellow at the base. Cut artichokes in half or quarters lengthwise and return them to the bowl. When ready to cook them, drain and rinse them.

This is how I saute them: I place them in a skillet or shallow saucepan with 3 or 4 tablespoons olive oil, parsley and an inch or less of water, depending on how many babies there are. I simmer this till all the water has evaporated and only the oil is left. I continue to cook them until they’re golden brown and tender, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. You should try this easy way. Remove them to a serving dish, sprinkle them with salt and black pepper and a bit of balsamic vinegar or lemon juice if you like a little tang and eat them warm, cold or at room temperature.

But today we have a fragrant soup with fennel, carrots, onions and asparagus.

BABY ARTICHOKE-VEGETABLE SOUP

3 tablespoons lemon juice

12 to 18 Ocean Mist Farms baby artichokes

1 pound Ocean Mist Farms asparagus spears

1 bulb Ocean Mist fennel

4 ounces pancetta or bacon, diced

1 1/2 quarts chicken broth

1 1/2 cups baby carrots

1/2 cup chopped green onion (scallion) OR 1 cup small boiling onions, peeled

1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Prepare baby artichokes as described above, leaving them in the acidulated water.

Trim base of asparagus spears; cut spears into 1-inch pieces.

Remove core of fennel bulb. Slice fennel, reserving leaves.

In large saucepot or Dutch oven, cook pancetta until crisp. Drain off drippings. Add broth, carrots, onion, fennel seeds and pepper. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Drain artichokes. Add to saucepot and simmer 5 minutes. Add asparagus and fennel and cook additional 5 minutes until vegetables are tender. Garnish with fennel leaves. Makes 4 to 6 servings.