A facility that’s now fit for the world’s most famous horse race

LOUISVILLE, Ky. – The Twin Spires still loom over the most famous stretch of soil in horse racing. Little else seems the same after a $121 million facelift to Churchill Downs.

The 3 1/2 -year renovation, the most ambitious in the track’s storied history, replaced the six-level clubhouse, added luxury suites and spruced up the aging home of the Kentucky Derby. The new digs debuted Saturday, a week before the big race next Saturday.

“You can’t help but get a tingle in your spine if you follow and love this sport, because now we’ve got a facility that we think is second to none in tradition, second to none in quality,” track president Steve Sexton said recently while inspecting the changes to Churchill Downs.

In place of the dingy, decaying clubhouse are more spacious and comfortable confines where fans can dine, bet and mingle while watching races. A new simulcast center features rows of seats for fans wanting to place bets on races elsewhere. Works of original art pay homage to the track’s history.

Sexton said he hopes the renovations bring back casual fans and slow the flow of money to a riverboat casino docked a few miles away on the Indiana side of the Ohio River.

“This is what Churchill needed,” said Bob Tucker of Jeffersonville, Ind., among a group of fans who recently got a sneak peek at the changes. He said the refurbished track is a far cry from what he remembered from years of coming out to watch the horses run: “An old wooden structure and some metal folding chairs.”

Brandon Kessinger of Louisville, who has come out to the track since boyhood, said the renovations were fitting for a track he called “the Yankee Stadium of horse racing.”

“You just walk around and it screams history,” he said, “but it needed a facelift.”

Some new artwork quickly may become featured attractions.

On the second floor of the refurbished clubhouse is a 36-foot-long mural displaying colorful depictions of all 96 Derby-winning jockeys – from Oliver Lewis, who rode Aristides to victory in the first Derby in 1875, to Stewart Elliott, who was aboard 2004 winner Smarty Jones.

The artist, Pierre “Peb” Bellocq, called it his contribution to revive the Derby’s past. The artist, known for his Daily Racing Form caricature drawings, researched the winning jockeys from the 19th century.

“I wanted to show the public the real colors, the real faces of the jockeys,” he said.

The mural drew flocks of admirers looking for recognizable faces among the riders.

“I just think it’s so fun,” said Vicki Tomlinson of Shelbyville, Ky. “I think it’s great to see the reaction of everybody. I love to hear everybody say, ‘Oh, who’s that?’ “

Multiple TVs let fans keep tabs on races. Churchill installed touch-screen computers that let some fans order food and drinks and place bets without leaving their seats.

The modernization also added a common feature at other sports venues – high-priced luxury suites. The track’s 79 suites – sandwiched between the famed Twin Spires and overlooking the homestretch – range from $70,000 to $240,000 in yearly lease prices. The suites quickly were snatched up, and Churchill has a waiting list.

The renovation increased the track’s overall space from 1 million to 1.4 million square feet.

Amid the new surroundings, however, are reminders of Churchill’s rich history.

“I think it’s the best of both worlds,” said track spokesman John Asher. “You maintain the history … when you look at those Twin Spires. And now we’ve got what I hope is a new foundation that will keep us alive and vibrant and growing for another 130 years.”