Your deep fryer and the not-so-guilty pleasures that come with it

Something sinister has slithered from the basement, a deadly demon scarier than any Halloween monster, ready to wreak havoc on…our waistlines. Yep, the cool weather’s brought the deep-fat fryer out of hibernation, and it’s waiting to scarf up french fries, eggplant rounds, green tomatoes, maybe some oysters and even Spam. Deep fried foods needn’t necessarily be guilty pleasures, but Spam is, for sure.

Americans eat tons of fried food, but like nose picking, it’s not something we like to admit. Eric Schlosser reports in his best seller “Fast Food Nation,” that the average American consumes three hamburgers and four orders of french fries a week. When those fries go down outside the home — as most do — it’s not as easy to bring charges, but the deep fryer on our counter is clear evidence of a crime. “Sir, as I will prove to the jury, you did in fact immerse potatoes in hot oil with intention to devour.” Guilty as charged.

I’m hoping for a plea bargain, though, arguing mitigating circumstances, because deep frying needn’t be (quite) the killer it’s made out to be. The hardest part is temperature regulation; food fried at too low a heat soaks up oil like, well, a sponge —and tastes pretty bad, too. Using a deep fryer, rather than stovetop cooking, allows automatic temperature control. When I made the switch I saw a marked lessening of fat absorption, the food was lighter, and cooked more uniformly.

When considering what oil to use, remember that they vary in levels of saturated fat from canola’s low 6 percent to palm oil at more than 50 percent. Saturated fats make for crisper fried foods — and it’s your heart, so I won’t tell you what to do — but I personally use canola oil and the results are fine.

Here are a few other tips, borrowed from Russ Parsons’s book “How to Read a French Fry”: Salt breaks down oil faster than anything, so salt food before applying a batter, and then again after cooking, if desired. He advises that fresh oil doesn’t work well, recommending keeping some old on hand, and adding about a tablespoon of old oil to each cup of new for better results. Finally, use an ample amount of oil to increase the amount of heat retention you have, making the difference between crisp and soggy foods.

If you’re looking at scads of nice-sized green tomatoes this time of year, as I am, give this a try. And once you make twice-cooked French fries, you’ll be hooked, even if it means an indictment. Finally, keep the fryer out until after Halloween. I haven’t tried them but I’ve heard that deep-fried Snickers bars are good. Maybe this year, along with Spam.

Fried Green Tomatoes with Dipping Sauce

4 medium green tomatoes

2 eggs, whipped

2 cups seasoned corn meal (see note)

Canola oil

Dipping sauce

5 tablespoons chopped cilantro

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons white vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons molasses

1/2 teaspoon minced jalapeno or other hot pepper

Fresh-cracked black pepper, to taste

Set deep fryer to 375 degrees. While it’s heating, slice the tomatoes about 3/4 - inch thick, discarding ends. Sprinkle with a little salt, dip into egg, and dredge with cornmeal. Fry in batches until golden brown, making sure the oil is up to temperature before each addition. Drain on paper or clean tea towels. Just before serving, whisk the sauce and serve on the side or spoon over the tomato slices.

Note: To make seasoned cornmeal, add a tablespoon each of paprika or cumin and turmeric.

Yield: 4 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

French fries

Adapted from the Williams Sonoma Guide to Good Cooking

2 large russet (baking) potatoes, washed and peeled

Vegetable oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

Cut the potatoes lengthwise about 1/2 -inch wide, then into fries the same width. Soak in cold water for a few minutes and rinse to remove excess starch. Dry thoroughly. Meanwhile, heat a deep fryer to 325 degrees. Have plenty of paper or clean tea towels ready.

Fry the potatoes in small batches, until just starting to turn yellow, about 3-4 minutes. Drain, remove from fryer and place on a plate in layers, with towels between each layer. Let rest for ten minutes to two hours.

Heat oil to 375 degrees. Fry in batches, not crowding the fryer, until golden brown, about three minutes or so. Drain and place on lined plates to remove excess oil, and serve immediately, with salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: 2 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.