Gelato a cool summer treat

If your summer travel plans don’t include a trip to Europe, you still can get a taste of Italy in north Spokane.

When Ed and Leanne Smith sampled gelato while vacationing in Italy, they were hooked and wanted more. Only trouble was, there was no freshly made gelato to be found in Spokane.

“In Italy, there’s a family-owned gelato shop on every block,” said Leanne Smith. “It’s the national dessert.”

The couple had long talked about starting their own business, and in May 2006, the Smiths opened Gelato Joe’s in the Wandermere Shopping Center.

The former Starbucks site now sports exposed brick walls, tall Greek pillars, a hand-painted mural of Italy and lots of cozy tables. Funky urban paintings by local artist Jim Battell adorn one wall, and shelves filled with giftware line another.

Umbrella-topped patio seating also is available.

But the focal point of the business remains the cool frozen concoction that inspired it.

“We’re the only ones who make our own gelato in Spokane,” according to Leanne Smith.

Gelato differs from ice cream in that it’s made with milk instead of cream. The resulting lower fat content led Leanne Smith to exclaim, “Oh yeah, it’s better for you by far.”

While Ed Smith admits that gelato’s lower fat content is a big selling point, he said with a grin, “But it’s not a diet product.”

The Smiths were trained in the art of gelato-making by a Milan, Italy-based company that sent a representative to Spokane to work with them in the kitchen at Gelato Joe’s. The Smiths purchase their ingredients and equipment from this company, giving their gelato the authentic Italian taste they love.

The Smiths’ greatest compliment came when a trio of sisters, who recently had moved to the area from Sicily, visited the shop and tried the strawberry-flavor gelato.

“One of the sisters said, ‘Your strawberry, it’s just like Italy,’ ” Leanne Smith said, adding, “The Italian community has really embraced us.”

For the Smiths, making gelato is a labor of love. “We make it in really small batches the way the Italians do,” said Leanne Smith. The smaller batches take less churning than ice cream, which results in a smoother, creamier product.

“It’s kind of fun to make,” said Ed Smith. Each flavor takes about 20 minutes to create. “We use the freshest, premium ingredients,” he continued. “We don’t add any preservatives.”

The gelato is flash-frozen for 10 minutes and then placed in freezers set at warmer temperatures than are used to store traditional ice cream. “Gelato is supposed to be soft, not rock-hard,” Leanne Smith said.

Two sugar-free flavors made with Splenda are always available. And for people who are allergic to milk products, the Smiths have a wide variety of nonfat “sorbetto,” made with fruit and water instead of milk.

Ed Smith’s favorite is pistachio gelato, while his wife’s current love is hazelnut rock.

Children enjoy the spaghetti gelato. Leanne Smith explained: “We put the gelato through a spaghetti press, top it with fruit-flavored sauce and shavings of white chocolate to resemble Parmesan cheese.”

The couple is developing a wholesale side of the business. The Smiths’ gelato is featured at one area restaurant and will be in others soon.

In the fall, the Smiths also plan to begin serving lunch.

“We get a lot of business from Whitworth students,” said Leanne Smith. “We offer them a 10 percent discount with their student ID.”

The store also has free wireless Internet access available with a purchase.

From a simple gelato parlor to a wholesale company, this innovative business continues to expand.

Many times, customers will say, “See ya, Joe,” to Ed Smith, but the “Joe” in the business name refers to coffee. The Smiths serve Craven’s coffee.

Now, these entrepreneurs have their sights on a new goal.

“The gelato business has gone beyond our expectations,” said Ed Smith. “Now we’re hoping to emerge as a neighborhood coffee shop and a great meeting place.”