Olive oils can add a world of flavor

The beneficial properties of olive oil have been well known in Mediterranean countries for thousand of years.

Archeologists discovered olive oil presses in Greece dating back to 5,000 B.C. The ancient Greeks used olive oil in religious ceremonies, as fuel for oil lamps and as a cleanser instead of soap. Hippocrates mentioned many ailments that could be treated with olive oil, such as skin diseases and ear infections. In the original Olympic games, the winner was not only decorated with olive tree branches, but awarded large amounts of olive oil.

As the Greeks founded colonies in Sicily, France and Spain, they took olive trees with them, expanding the cultivation of olives throughout the Mediterranean. Today, olive trees are farmed in countries around the globe, including Japan, China, South Africa, New Zealand and the U.S. Even with this global expansion, the vast majority of the world’s olive oil production still comes from the Mediterranean region.

With the widespread buzz about the “Mediterranean diet” – heavy on fish, fruit and vegetables, less emphasis on red meat – in the 1990s, American consumers became increasingly interested in learning about and cooking with olive oil. Gourmet olive oil purveyors and olive oil tasting bars gained popularity, and home chefs began experimenting with olive oil. In 2006, Americans consumed twice as much olive oil as they did in 1996, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce.

Here’s to your health

“I recommend olive oil to my patients because of its high level of monounsaturated fats,” said Craig Hunt, a Spokane registered dietician. For people whose HDL (good cholesterol) is too low, studies have shown that increasing the level of monounsaturated fats and slightly reducing carbohydrate intake causes HDL levels to increase, says Hunt who specializes in cholesterol management.

When selecting an olive oil for health benefits, keep in mind that extra virgin has a higher level of polyphenols than more refined oils. The polyphenol antioxidants help mitigate the negative effects of free radicals before they do damage to our bodies. Polyphenols are an important part of a cancer prevention diet, Hunt said. But remember, a little goes a long way.

“Sometimes people get a little bit heavy handed,” said Hunt, pointing out that olive oil has 120 calories per tablespoon. It’s best to replace the saturated fats in your diet with olive oil, rather than adding extra calories.

In his book “The World’s Healthiest Foods,” George Mateljan discusses the anti-inflammatory benefits of olive oil. “Regular use of olive oil has been associated with lower rates of asthma and rheumatoid arthritis,” he writes. In addition, in the Mediterranean region where people consume olive oil regularly, rates of heart disease, colon cancer, and diabetes are significantly lower.

Good for your skin

The polyphenols that make olive oil a heart-healthy food are good for the skin as well. The antioxidant properties in olive oil help repair skin damage as a result of sun exposure and the natural aging process. Ancient Greeks seemed to have understood this, as they bathed with olive oil, and slathered it on their bodies prior to athletic competitions.

Sandra Gunn, owner of Coeur d’Alene Olive Oil Company, has used olive oil on her face for years. “My family is Sicilian. That’s what we’ve always used,” she said. As a past buyer for Nordstrom cosmetics, Gunn noted that many beauty products contained olive oil, so why not go straight to the source, she thought. Gunn’s store carries small spritzers that customers can fill with olive oil to spray on their skin.

She recommends her company’s Mission olive oil for moisturizing. “It’s a light varietal, has no smell, and you can cook with it too,” she added. Gunn also carries a line of natural beauty products containing extra virgin olive oil.

Extra Virgin

“Of all the grades of oil that can be marketed as olive oil, the only one a careful cook should look for is extra virgin,” writes Marcella Hazan in “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking.”

Olive oil comes in three main grades: extra virgin, virgin and pure. Both extra virgin and virgin olive oils are typically unrefined and cold-pressed. This means they are produced without the use of chemicals (unrefined) and pressed without high heat (cold-pressed). These first two grades of oil are often from the first pressing of the olives, resulting in the highest quality oils which contain the most flavor, vitamins and antioxidents.

The difference between extra virgin and virgin olive oil is determined by the amount of oleic acid each contains. To be extra virgin, the International Olive Oil Council stipulates that the oil contain less than 0.8 percent oleic acid, and meet certain standards of flavor and aroma. Olive oil containing between 0.8 percent and 2 percent oleic acid is classified as virgin olive oil. If the oleic acid content is higher than 3 percent, the IOOC deems it unfit for consumption, and it must be refined to lower the acid content or used for industrial purposes.

After the first pressing, heat and chemical solvents often are used to extract the remaining oil in the previously crushed olives, and the resulting oil is known as “pure” or regular olive oil. The name pure is a misnomer, as this type of olive oil can be a blend of virgin and refined oils.

Flavor varies by region

Olive oils offer a broad range of flavors and aromas, depending on where the olives are grown. The type of olives, how the fruit is harvested and handled prior to pressing, climatic conditions, soil, and storage of the oil prior to consumption are just a few of the many factors that influence the final product.

“The only way to determine which one pleases one’s palate most is to try as many as possible. The tasting qualities to look for, no matter what the other characteristics of the oil may be, are sensations of liveliness, freshness and lightness. Avoid oils that taste fat, that feel sticky, or that have earthy or moldy odors,” writes Hazan in “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking.”

Cassano’s Italian Foods’ new location at 2002 E. Mission Ave., will offer the opportunity to taste many different olive oils at their tasting bar. Owner Carl Naccarato describes the Tuscan oils as peppery, almost spicy hot. Oils from Calabria in southern Italy are greener, sweeter and fruity. Naccarato will carry about 20 different oils, with his supply changing as harvest times vary in different regions.

Naccarato reports that his store’s sales of olive oil are strong, even in this difficult economy. “People want culinary adventure, but they aren’t spending money going out,” he said. His customers are watching the Food Network, cooking more and experimenting with gourmet ingredients.

Latah Creek Winery owners Mike and Ellena Conway fell in love with olive oils during their travels to Italy and Portugal.

“I’m an olive oil connoisseur,” Ellena Conway said. Three or four years ago they visited the home of Sicilian olive oil producer Salvatore Mirasola. Mirasola’s organic olive tree estate is near the coast – sunny, warm and breezy, ideal for olive tree growth. The fruit is picked by hand, and pressed within 2 to 6 hours. The Conways were so impressed with the quality they decided to import the Mirasola’s oil to sell in their winery’s gift store. They buy the olive oil in bulk and bottle it in their winery.

Cooking with olive oil

Chef Laith Elaimy of Niko’s Greek Restaurant grew up cooking with olive oil. “We use it in everything we do. It’s in 95 percent of our dishes,” he said. He uses pure olive oil for cooking, sautéing and in dishes where a light olive flavor is desired, and prefers extra virgin for the restaurant’s salads and hummus.

“The flavor of the extra virgin oils will overpower lighter dishes,” he said. Elaimy mixes olive oil with white balsamic vinegar for salad dressings. But, he says, the best use for extra virgin olive oil is to pour it over hummus.

Elaimy experiments with different oils, and recently purchased an organic extra virgin olive oil at Costco, and was impressed with the quality.

“I really enjoy it with eggs. Put a thick layer of extra virgin oil in pan and cook two eggs over easy. They are amazing – the whites turn green,” he said. Eggs have a subtle flavor and are cooked at a relatively low temperature allowing the extra virgin olive oil to really shine. Elaimy also speaks highly of California olive oils, noting that the flavors are just as potent as their Mediterranean counterparts.

Olive oil contains vitamin E, which acts as a natural preservative to keep the oil from going rancid, but you can help protect the freshness by keeping the oil away from heat and light. It is often sold in dark colored bottles to protect it from light. Try to purchase your oil in small amounts and use it within one year for maximum quality.

If you’ve never cooked with olive oil before, invest in a few quality oils and start experimenting. Taste the oils before you begin cooking, so you know what flavors you are working with. Don’t use the most expensive ones for high heat dishes, as the flavor will dissipate. Trying sautéing vegetables in pure olive oil and fresh herbs, and drizzle some extra virgin on sliced tomatoes with fresh ground pepper and a sprinkle of salt. Unfiltered oils have sediment, which adds great flavor for dipping, drizzling on salads and other cold applications, but don’t use it for cooking as the sediment burns and the oil will smoke.

Here are a few recipes to get you started.

Basil Oil

From “The Babbo Cookbook,” by Mario Batali. Drizzle on salads, fish or roasted vegetables.

1 cup packed basil leaves, chopped

2 cups extra virgin olive oil, chilled for 2 hours

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Place all of the ingredients in a blender and puree until nearly smooth and uniformly green. Strain through a fine sieve. Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to one week.

Yield: 2 cups

Olive Oil and Fresh Rosemary Cake

From “The Babbo Cookbook.” Batali says “this is a classic example of what Italians really eat in the late afternoon, perhaps with a glass of vino santo. Try it with bitter orange marmalade.”

4 eggs

3/4 cup sugar

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 1/2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Spray a 10-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, use the whip attachment to beat the eggs for 30 seconds. Add the sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is very foamy and pale in color. With the mixer running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Using a spatula, gently fold the rosemary into the batter.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through for even color. The cake is done when golden brown, springs back when touched, and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool briefly in the pan, and tip out onto a cake rack to continue cooling.

Yield: 12 slices

Delectable Brownies with Blood Orange Olive Oil

From Sandra Gunn, Coeur d’Alene Olive Oil Company

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate

1/2 cup blood orange olive oil

2 cups sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

4 eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped (optional)

Allow all ingredients to warm up to room temperature. Position oven rack in the center, and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Oil a 9-by-13 inch pan and line with parchment paper. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the oil and stir until smooth. Cool completely. Stir in the sugar and vanilla. Beat in the eggs until well mixed. Stir in the flour and nuts until just incorporated.

With a rubber spatula, scrape the batter into the pan, making sure that the batter is smoothed out to the edges. Bake for 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely before serving.

Yield: 18 to 24 servings.

Tomato Basil Rustic Pasta

Courtesy of Ellena Conway, Latah Creek Winery, who recommends serving this pasta dish with bread and a glass of Latah Creek wine.

1 250 gram package pasta (Conway recommends Rustichella d’abruzzo brand pasta, available at Rocket Market)

3 ounces fresh basil, chopped

10 ounces of grape tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup olive oil (Conway suggests Mirasola, available at Latah Creek Winery)

1/2 to 1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Cook pasta according to directions. Drain pasta and combine with chopped basil, tomatoes, olive oil and parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings

Mediterranean Dressing

From “The World’s Healthiest Foods,” by George Mateljan. This dressing can be used on green salads or many kinds of vegetables.

4-5 cloves garlic

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

Sea salt and pepper to taste

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Press garlic into a bowl and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk together with lemon juice, sea salt and pepper. Slowly pour the extra virgin olive oil into the mixture while whisking constantly. The more slowly you pour and the faster you whisk, the creamier the dressing will be.

The dressing will keep in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. It will solidify, so you will need to bring it to room temperature before using.

Yield: 1 1/3 cups.

Niko’s Hummus

From “Niko’s Cookbook,” by Amal Elaimy.

4 cups cooked garbanzo beans

1/2 cup raw tahini (sesame paste)

5 cloves garlic

1/2 cup lemon juice

1 1/2 to 2 cups water

Salt to taste

Olive oil, green onions and chopped parsley for garnish

Put all of the ingredients except olive oil, green onions and parsley in a food processor. Process until smooth. The amount of water needed will depend on the thickness of the tahini. Add more water or lemon juice to get the right consistency.

Place on serving plates and drizzle some olive oil on top and garnish with green onions and chopped parsley. If desired, sprinkle some cayenne on top. Serve with pita bread.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.