Free cervezas top off another delightful Toro Viejo experience

‘Um … uh … muy gracias, señor!” It was one of those moments when I wondered why I decided to take six long years of Français in school instead of the more logical choice of Español. Somehow, the gnarl-tooth gentleman in the black cowboy hat sitting across from us at Baja Bargarita must have understood my mangled attempt at his native language.

He raised his bottle of Bud Light high in the air and yelled “Salud!” before barking loudly like a happily demented dog. Clearly, our new amigo had already finished off quite a few cold ones. He didn’t know more than a few words of our language either, so it took us a minute to figure out that he wanted to buy our first beer. “You buy us dos cervezas?” shouted my friend, as she repeatedly poked her finger in his direction, then ours. He grinned enthusiastically and nodded his head yes, nearly falling off his barstool.

Our beers arrived and we continued to embarrass ourselves by shouting out random, unrelated Spanish words and phrases we kind of knew, eventually coming up with, “Cinco de Mayo!” On that, he lifted his beer again and slurred a few sentences in Spanish that I’m going to guess meant something like, “Hey, I’ll be even more bombed on May 5 than I am right now, and most likely so will you!”

Cinco de Mayo is actually a much bigger whoop in the USA than it is in Mexico these days, where it is primarily a regional affair. Americans love any excuse to party and don’t really care that it isn’t actually Mexican Independence Day, as many believe, but rather commemorates the Mexican Army’s victory over French invaders in 1862 in the city of Puebla. It is a bit obscure, but in the minds of many it’s become the Mexican equivalent to St. Patrick’s Day, and instead of corned beef, cabbage and Guinness, it involves consuming as many tacos, enchiladas and Coronas as possible.

This year, as in years past, ground zero for Cinco de Mayo celebrations in Coeur d’Alene will be at Toro Viejo Mexican Restaurant and its sister lounge next door, Baja Bargarita. Toro Viejo is an area institution of somewhat epic proportions, opened nearly 20 years ago by Ruben Briseno and his family, who moved to the United States from Guadalajara. It was an instant hit, and since then they’ve been able to open restaurants in Hayden, Post Falls and Rathdrum. Their formula for success is a combination of consistently wonderful food served in large portions and a memorably friendly staff who treat all customers like Mayan gods.

I can’t recall ever being served a meal there that wasn’t terrific, but my personal favorites are the divine shredded-beef enchiladas and the chicken en mole, a rich, complex sauce made with chili spice, peanut butter and dark chocolate. I’d have to say that Toro Viejo’s chips and salsa are the freshest and most addictively flavorful I’ve encountered anywhere, and they flow endlessly, at the start of your meal and free upon request at Baja any time. I’ve seen a few wimps cry and freak out about the heat of Toro’s homemade salsa, but I like a lot of bang so to me it’s just perfect.

The atmosphere is normally festive at both Toro and Baja all year round, whether it’s Cinco de Mayo or Cuatro de January-o. The restaurant has a classic wall mural of the old bull ready to give the works to a cape-wielding toreador and has a relaxingly dim-lit, old-school vibe that gives the place an air of authenticity.

With karaoke twice a week and a pumping DJ on the weekends, Baja Bargarita is significantly more lively. Having recently completed a dance floor redo which evokes the feeling of a warm Mexican evening outside on the plaza, complete with a lit-up, starry night ceiling and terra cotta floor tiles, they’re quite ready to bring on the Cinco de Mayo party action.

According to Baja bartender Christa Jennings, they’re really going loco this year. “We’re having a block party and closing off Second Street. We will have a car show and an outside bar and music. It’s going to be a lot of fun.” I can’t disagree, and a little moonlight street dancing sounds like the perfect way to work off a big, delicious meal from next door. Who knows, I might even have another opportunity to practice my bad Spanish.