Succumb to the summit in crag culture

It’s one of the few sports where the opposition is older than mankind itself. Eons older. Its language is as universal now as it was when it began, before speech even existed. Today, whether on a rock face in the Pacific Northwest, or at the summit of a crag on Kalymnos island, no matter a speaker’s native tongue, everyone understands the words “climb on!”

Within an hour’s drive of Spokane exists some of the best rock climbing in the region. Ease of access could be the reason some of the world’s best climbers have gotten their start here or nearby.

“This Northwest area has produced a lot of world class climbers,” said Rich Bennett, Climbing Chair of the Spokane Mountaineers. “From John Roskelley to Chris Kopcyzynski … all those guys back from the day.”

Success of today’s climbers is tied – both literally and figuratively – to the efforts of those that have climbed before them. Teachers and mentors play a key role, especially when it comes to more complicated pursuits like mountaineering.

The Spokane Mountaineers were founded in 1915 by a group of female librarians who loved to hike. They kept the club exclusive for women until 1920, when they decided to let men join. Today, the Spokane Mountaineers offer several courses on many outdoor activities and all categories of rock climbing.

Prospective climbers are able to become members and register for classes online (spokanemountaineers.org). Details for all the classes, including cost and schedule, are also available on the website. Check them out on Facebook, as well.

“You see those 45 students that signed up for Mountain School,” said Bennett, “and we go around the room and ask, ‘Why did you take this class?’ I bet 75-80 percent say, ‘I want to climb Mount Rainier.’ Everybody wants to climb Rainier. It’s right there.”

Bennett has climbed Rainier 15 times, utilizing 12 different routes. He shrugs it off. “That’s not as many as if you would go talk to a climber in Seattle. Those guys say, ‘50.’ ”

All committee members and officials within the Spokane Mountaineers are volunteers. The organization is non-profit, meaning all proceeds from membership dues and class costs go right back to the members, whether in the form of gear, ropes or barbecues.

They’re planning to celebrate their 100th anniversary at next year’s annual banquet. During that time, they plan to host climbs and events honoring the routes of members from decades ago.

While Mountain School is considered their flagship class, the Spokane Mountaineers offer an introductory clinic, Rock School, which runs in conjunction with Mountain School. While Mountain School is a longer class spanning a few months in the spring, Rock School allows members to learn the ropes over the course of two weeks in April.

“When you graduate from the Rock School, you should be able to take your own gear and set up and climb on your own safely,” said Rich. “That’s the goal.”

The Spokane Mountaineers start off students indoors at Wild Walls in Spokane, then the following weekend they take students out to a local crag. Students first learn to rappel, and for a lot of them, that’s the hardest part.

“It’s as scary as you make it,” said Rich. He and his wife, Sara Schmelzer, the club’s Adventure Exploration chair, enjoy running the rappel station from the top. Sara takes two photos of the students’ faces while they descend – the first, face contorted with uncertainty, and the second, a wide smile once they realize the fun they’re having.

“They always say they’re going to do it once,” Rich said. “But then they go down and come back up, ‘I’m going to do it again.’”

The Spokane Mountaineers ask members to purchase their own rock climbing gear: harness, belay device (ATC), one large pear-shaped locking carabiner, and rock shoes. They do rent helmets. Rock climbing gear is available locally at Mountain Gear, Mountain Goat Outfitters, REI, and Tri-State Outfitters. They do recommend climbers use caution when buying used gear, especially a used rope.

During the time Rich has been an instructor, he hasn’t witnessed any injuries much worse than bumps and bruises.

“This year we had a broken ankle and a separated shoulder,” he said, “but that’s it.”

After Rock School, the Spokane Mountaineers offer a Youth Rock School in May. Students must be at least 12 years old. Most students are encouraged to take the class with a parent, or at least have a parent present.

“In the last few years, it’s become more of a family thing,” Bennett explained, “like skiing, but cheaper. … You can just set up a top rope on something and have a nice afternoon climbing.”

Spokane Mountaineer Lila Parlin first started climbing in 2000 when her kids took her out. She remembers her first rappel very clearly.

“To me, that was harder than my first climb – was backing off a perfectly good ledge.”

Since then, Parlin has helped many friends and friends of friends learn to love climbing just as much as she does.

“The next thing you learn is how to be economical in your energy expenditure,” Parlin said. “It’s really just a funky ladder. You have to keep your weight on your feet as much as possible. … That’s really hard for a beginner climber to realize – it’s still about the feet.”

Parlin understands rocking climbing as one of the few sports where women can equate to men, since women are able to compensate for a lack of strength with balance and finesse.

“If you want to learn good technique,” she laughed, “have a woman teach you.”

In the winter time, Parlin maintains her climbing skills indoors at Wild Walls.

“There’s no gym work that works those muscles the same,” she explained.

Rock climbing has become both her main form of exercise and the focal point of her social life.

“Yeah, there’s some competition,” she said. “There’s still the camaraderie. Every climber wants the other climber to be safe. Every climber wants the other climber to get up there.”

Lila plans on climbing for as long as she can find someone to belay her. Her great aunt lived to 110, the oldest woman in Iowa.

Lila, still sporting a youthful smile, never likes to reveal her age. In comparison to her opposition, her ancestors even, she is still the baby.

But in regard to a belay partner, she is planning ahead.

“My granddaughter is 3 – she already has her own harness.”