Dinner Together: Warm vinaigrettes bridge winter blahs, crisp spring salads

Sure, that’s spring in the air – just ask my daffodils and tulips – but that doesn’t mean it’s altogether warm enough to make crunchy, cold spring salads crave-able just yet. There’s an easy way to fix that: warm vinaigrettes.

This month’s Dinner Together recipe combines all of the wonderful things about spring veggies with just enough warmth to take the edge off the still-cold days. This recipe from Fine Cooking magazine originally called for pork to be stir-fried to top the salad, but I like the lighter texture of fried tofu with it instead. If you have vegetarians or vegans at your table, they’ll like this light yet hearty and filling combination. Many of the warm vinaigrette recipes I found start with bacon, which is amazing if you’re a meat eater, but this will appeal to a broader group of family and friends.

If you’re making it for gluten-free friends or family members, just be sure to substitute tamari for the soy sauce.

The recipe also originally called for mushrooms, bell pepper and scallions, but don’t be afraid to add asparagus, pea pods or whatever else sounds good. If shiitake mushrooms are too expensive or don’t appeal to you, substitute crimini or white button mushrooms instead. Add garlic with the minced fresh ginger for an additional zing.

This salad comes together quickly. Serve with a side of steamed jasmine rice, if desired. The recipe’s author also suggests ideas for spicing it up with sriracha or chile paste, if you prefer.

Spinach Salad with Stir-Fried Tofu and Warm Ginger Vinaigrette

Adapted from Fine Cooking magazine

Author Tony Rosenfeld writes, “For a splash of heat, I like to drizzle this salad with some Sriracha hot sauce or Thai chile paste. You can set a bottle of this hot sauce on the table for guests to add as they like.”

1/2 pound baby spinach, washed and spun dry (8 loosely packed cups)

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

10 to 12 ounces extra-firm tofu or 1 pound 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick boneless pork chops, trimmed of excess fat and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon dry sherry

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 cup canola or peanut oil

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

6 scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces

3 1/2 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

Put the spinach in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the rice vinegar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, the sugar and 3 tablespoons water. Put the tofu in a medium bowl and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, the sherry, and the cornstarch. Let sit for 10 minutes.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a heavy, 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the tofu and cook, stirring, until it is seared on the outside and warm throughout. Transfer to a clean medium bowl.

To the skillet, add 1 1/2 tablespoons of the canola oil and the sesame oil, scallions, mushrooms and bell pepper. Sprinkle with salt and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms and scallions soften and brown in places, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to the bowl with the tofu and toss.

Still over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the canola oil and the ginger to the skillet and cook, stirring until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the vinegar-soy mixture, and stir well with a wooden spoon or spatula, scraping the pan to incorporate the browned bits. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup canola oil; the mixture will remain largely separated. Transfer the vinaigrette to a measuring cup and whisk to emulsify thoroughly (the cornstarch from the browned bits will help).

Toss the spinach with half of the vinaigrette (or enough to lightly coat). Portion among four plates, top with the tofu and vegetables, and drizzle with some of the remaining vinaigrette (you may not need it all). Serve immediately.

Serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Yield: 4 servings