Cookbook review: Learning to cook with cast iron skillets
Quick look: What can’t a cast-iron skillet do? This American classic is a versatile workhorse, the one pan that does it all. From cinnamon buns to roast chicken, this new cookbook shows you how.
What’s inside: Naturally nonstick and durable, a cast-iron skillet is a culinary must-have, according to the editors at America’s Test Kitchen. So, don’t let the care and cleaning intimidate you. And, if you already have one, don’t let it gather dust.
Cast-iron skillets can last a lifetime, making them one of the most affordable options for cookware. Traditional skillets typically cost $20 to $35. Enameled versions generally sell for between $50 and $180.
This book, researched and written by the editors at one of America’s most trusted culinary brands, discusses the merits of each – as well as how to season cast iron from scratch and continue to maintain it. It also discusses various myths: Yes, you can cook tomatoes or other acidic ingredients in a cast-iron pan; you just have to take care. And, a little soap is OK as long as you rinse and dry it right away.
After the helpful tips in the introduction, recipes – for both stovetop and the oven – are divided into dish types – from Sizzling Hot Starters and Skillet Roasts to One-Dish Dinners and Desserts. Look for appetizers such as baked brie with honeyed apricots, beer and cheese fondue, and lamb meatballs with yogurt sauce. Seared meat dishes include lamb chops with mint and rosemary relish, pan-seared scallops and blackened snapper with remoulade sauce.
Look also for classic roast chicken with lemon-thyme pan sauce (the image on the cover), clams with Israeli couscous and chorizo, drop doughnuts, cornbread, English muffins, brown soda bread, corn tortillas, home fries, skillet-roasted pears with caramel sauce, apple pie, apple fritters and a classic chocolate chip skillet cookie.
Each recipe is accompanied by a “Why This Works” introduction as well as the number of people it serves.
What’s not: If only this cookbook came with a cast-iron skillet. Come to think of it, the pairing would make a great gift for a home cook.
Chocolate Chip Skillet Cookie
From “Cook It In Cast Iron,” by America’s Test Kitchen
Why bake a cookie in cast iron? “A great crust,” according to editors at America’s Test Kitchen. Plus, it’s “simpler and faster than baking regular cookies.”
America’s Test Kitchen recommends topping the cookie with ice cream “for an extra-decadent treat.”
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup (5 1/2 ounces) packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon salt
1 large egg plus 1 large yolk
1 3/4 cups (8 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup (6 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Melt 9 tablespoons butter in 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until butter is dark golden brown, has nutty aroma and bubbling subsides, about 5 minutes; transfer to large bowl. Stir remaining 3 tablespoons butter into hot butter until completely melted.
Whisk brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla and salt into melted butter until smooth. Whisk in egg and yolk until smooth, about 30 seconds. Let mixture sit for 3 minutes, then whisk for 30 seconds. Repeat process of resting and whisking 2 more times until mixture is thick, smooth and shiny.
Whisk flour and baking soda together in separate bowl, then stir flour mixture into butter mixture until just combined, about 1 minute. Stir in chocolate chips, making sure no flour pockets remain.
Wipe skillet clean with paper towels. Transfer dough to now-empty skillet and press into even layer with spatula. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until cookie is golden brown and edges are set, about 20 minutes, rotating skillet halfway through baking. Using potholders, transfer skillet to wire rack and let cookie cool for 30 minutes. Slice cookie into wedges and serve.