Masselow’s steaks sizzle, but the restaurant is more than beef

Not every restaurant that closed abruptly last March due to the coronavirus reopened in May. Masselow’s Steakhouse was on hiatus throughout the summer as its staff worked on its new menu.

It was worth the wait as Northern Quest Resort & Casino’s culinary gem welcomed back customers in mid-September. It took effort not to overindulge during a three-course dinner. It’s easy to say to take it light on the breads served at Masselow’s, but it’s difficult to pass on the fine baked goods, which preface a three- or four-course dinner.

Northern Quest’s lone steakhouse is a carb lover’s delight. I passed on the basic bread and butter, but the huckleberry bread is impossible to ignore. The combination of the sweetness from the huckleberry, the tartness of balsamic and the smoked salt, which adds a little bite, makes for an excellent flavor.

The carrot cake bread sans cream cheese frosting is just fine with plain butter. The breads are a nice prelude to the salad options, which are made with locally sourced produce.

The burrata, heirloom tomato, sourdough bread and fresh mozzarella is made for cheese lovers. The mozzarella is so decadent, it felt like dessert. Chef Tanya Broesder grew up on a Midwestern farm, where cheese is serious. The prime-aged beef Manhattan steak is served chargrilled and delicious medium-rare. What makes the USDA beef sublime is that it’s wet aged for 28 days before it hits Masselow’s cooler.

The Red Schooner Voyage 7 Malbec complements the entree served with roasted fingerling potato and green beans. For those who like to explore, Masselow’s wine list is extensive. An excellent option for those passing on red meat is the Wild King Salmon, which is pan seared with ginger and coconut. The Thai chili jam adds a welcome kick.

My will power failed when more huckleberry bread was served. Dessert was up in the air until I had a whiff of the Peachy Keen – compressed peaches, caramel pound cake and honey-bourbon semifreddo. The peach slices soak up the bourbon and make for a standout dessert.

The Pumpkin, Spice and Everything Nice smacks of the season. The pumpkin doughnuts served for breakfast at Northern Quest go to another level for dessert. The pumpkin doughnut holes, a combination of pumpkin ale and goat cheese Bavarian and warm butter-braised pumpkin, is a great way to end a meal since you’ll have come full circle if you sampled the appetizing breads.

Each course is special at Masselow’s, and, even though it’s a steakhouse, hats off to Broesder for inventiveness with breads and her obvious love of cheese. The cut of beef is terrific, but it’s nice to be surprised when sampling the complementary fare.

Thumbs up to Masselow’s for the dimly lit atmosphere, which whispers romance. Make reservations in advance since the capacity at Masselow’s has changed post-coronavirus. There is a cap of four guests per party with limited tables available.

When booking, note that a credit card is required to facilitate payment. The rules have changed, but the quality of food and the service are well worth the trip.