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Great Northwest Wine: Raise a toast to Hispanic Heritage Month

UPDATED: Tue., Sept. 15, 2020

Amy Alvarez-Wampfler, co-winemaker at Abeja in Walla Walla, was in charge of 10,000 barrels of chardonnay during her time at Columbia Crest.  (Abeja)
Amy Alvarez-Wampfler, co-winemaker at Abeja in Walla Walla, was in charge of 10,000 barrels of chardonnay during her time at Columbia Crest. (Abeja)
By Eric Degerman Great Northwest Wine

The recent rise of the Hispanic winemaker in the Pacific Northwest provides appropriate depth to the circle, which begins in the vineyard and ends with wines that earn acclaim and promote tourism to our region.

During the course of four weeks, from Sept. 15 to Oct. 15, the United States will toast Hispanic Heritage Month, a celebration and sign of respect that began with President Lyndon B. Johnson as a week but was expanded two decades later by President Ronald Reagan in 1988.

In our corner of the country, it syncs up with the harvest of grapes by vineyard workers and the crushing of grapes by winemakers. In a growing number of scenarios, the important decisions, starting with when to bring in the fruit, are being made in the cellar by Hispanic winemakers.

No one in the region is responsible for more wine than Juan Muñoz-Oca, executive vice president of winemaking, vineyards and operations for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. The native of Argentina, whose résumé includes a business degree from Columbia, began his career in Washington state as a viticulturist in 2001 at Columbia Crest.

The team he was on produced the vaunted Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon that was Wine Spectator’s No. 1 wine in the world for 2009.

A decade later, Wine Press Northwest magazine selected Palencia Wine Co., led by Mexican-born Victor Palencia, as the 2019 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. Palencia grew up in the Yakima Valley, inspired by his father who tended vines.

Another thing that several of these winemakers have in common is their alma mater – Walla Walla Community College and its highly decorated Institute of Enology & Viticulture program.

The list of alumni includes Palencia, Amy Alvarez-Wampfler of Abeja in Walla Walla, Christopher Castillo of Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard & Winery in Milton-Freewater, Oregon, and Victor De la Luz of Gordon Estate/De la Luz Wine.

In Oregon, a group that includes Carla Rodriguez, co-owner of Beacon Hill Winery, and owner/winemaker Juan Pablo Valot of Valcan Cellars are scheduled panelists for virtual seminars on Tuesday that will address the Latinx/o community.

The panel in English will be moderated by author Katherine Cole, a James Beard Award-winning podcaster. To sign up, go to celebratinghispanicroots.com.

Below are a few of the wines produced by these winemakers that have earned a gold medal in a recent judging. Ask for these wines at your favorite wine shop or contact the wineries directly.

Abeja 2018 Chardonnay, Washington State, $45: Alvarez-Wampler met her husband, Daniel, while they were working at Columbia Crest, where Amy’s focus was on the chardonnay program. At Abeja, where she and Daniel Wampfler share the winemaking duties, her touch with chardonnay is still on display.

This blend of grapes from select cooler sites across the state such as Celilo, Conner Lee and Abeja’s plantings along Mill Creek in the Walla Walla Valley offers finesse with notes of light butterscotch, dusty Bosc pear, lemon bar and vanilla. Delicious acidity emerges from the nine months in 40% new oak barrels, with a finish of crushed pineapple and apricot compote.

De la Luz Wine 2018 Carmen Rosé, Columbia Valley, $20: By day, De la Luz is the head winemaker for Gordon Estate, home to one of the oldest family-owned vineyards in Washington.

At night, he works on micro-lots of his young brand, and this project with grenache won Best Rosé at the Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition thanks to its tropical undertones behind the crushed raspberry and creamy strawberry approach.

Valcan Cellars 2015 Syrah, Rogue Valley, $30: J.P. Valot, longtime winemaker for Silvan Ridge in Eugene, recently opened a tasting room in Corvallis for his own label. Earthy notes and wild berries lead to a brilliant palate that brims with Bing cherries, red and purple huckleberries and freshly crushed herbs. Roasted meat notes add complexity on the lingering finale.

Martinez & Martinez Winery 2018 Tudor Hills Vineyard Viognier, Yakima Valley, $18: Andrew Martinez’s father, Sergio, has been managing vineyards in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills for decades, and their own site produces stellar red wines.

Andrew’s wife, Monica, also is part of the Tudor family, and their work in the Yakima Valley is earning high scores for white wines such as this viognier. Beautiful aromatics of honeysuckle, apricot and melon are matched on the palate, where the structure is rich, complex and balanced. This earned best of class at the 2020 Washington State Wine Competition.

Beacon Hill Winery & Vineyard 2018 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $28: This entry-level pinot noir for Oregon producers George Hillberry and Carla Rodríguez includes their estate vines, which were established in 1989 by the acclaimed Tony Soter.

Aromas of boysenberry jam, cranberry sauce, light caramel and white pepper do not disappoint in this deliciously approachable drink that is capped by golden raspberry.

Castillo de Feliciana Vineyard & Winery 2018 Brillanté Sparkling Albariño, Columbia Valley, $41: It seems natural that Christopher Castillo would focus on the fascinating Spanish white grape albariño for this bubble project for his family. It is a fresh, frothy and fun presentation of angel food cake, pineapple and white peach.

Finishing notes of Key lime and Asian pear make this a nice ride to the finish, helping it to earn the award for Best Sparkling Wine at the Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition.

Eric Degerman operates Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at greatnorthwestwine.com.

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