Water Cooler: DIY soap and the science behind it amc

One of the major drawbacks for those wanting to switch to more “natural” products is the increase in price, especially for basic necessities like soap.

That said, if you’re a fan of all things DIY, you have a ton of options for making your own soap. It will likely be cheaper than most commercial products and it allows you to control all the ingredients and minimize packaging.

Before getting started, it helps to get a deeper understanding of what soap is and how it works.

At its most basic, household soaps are a surfactant. A surfactant molecule has one water-loving (hydrophilic) end and one water-fearing (hydrophobic) end. The water-fearing end is attracted to dirt and grime and it lifts the soil or grime off the surface, trapping it in the soap. The water-loving end is attracted to water, which makes it easy to rinse the soap and grime away.

The earliest record of soap-like materials was found in ancient Babylon, dating back to about 2800 B.C. The basic recipe hasn’t changed too much. All soap needs is some sort of fat, like lard or vegetable oil, alkali and water.

The alkali most often used for soaps today is sodium hydroxide, or lye. The lye reacts with the triglycerides of the fat in a process called saponification. When the proportions of fat and lye are correct, this exothermic (giving off heat) reaction completely neutralizes the lye.

Lye is used in cold and hot process techniques. If you don’t want to bother with lye, you can use the melt and pour process. This requires purchasing a soap base, so it technically isn’t making soap from scratch, but it still allows you to customize the additives.

To make soap using the cold process, you will need a few silicone soap molds or silicone loaf pan and a stainless steel thermometer. To make about five 3.5-ounce bars, you will need two-thirds cup unrefined coconut oil, two-thirds cup olive oil, two-thirds cup almond oil (or any liquid oil like grapeseed, sunflower or safflower), one-fourth cup lye and three-fourths cup cool, distilled water.

Cover your work area with scrap or newspaper and wear rubber, latex or nitrile gloves and protective glasses to avoid accidental contact with the lye. Work in a well-ventilated area. Pour the water into a quart glass jar. Slowly pour the lye into the water, stirring continuously until the water clears. Set aside.

Combine the oils in a pint-sized jar. Heat in the microwave or in a pan of water on the stovetop until it reaches 120 degrees . Wait for the oils and the lye to cool down to between 95 and 105 degrees .

Pour the oils into a mixing bowl, then slowly add the lye while stirring continuously for at least 5 minutes. Continue to stir by hand or switch to an immersion blender. The soap will lighten in color and thicken to the consistency of a pudding. Add any herbs, essential oils or colorants at this point. Pour the mixture into the silicone mold. Cover with plastic wrap and wrap in an old towel to trap the heat to facilitate the saponification process.

Check the soap after 24 hours. If it is warm and soft, let sit for another 12 to 24 hours. If it is firm and cold, remove from the mold onto a baking sheet. If you used a loaf pan, this is the time to cut the soap into bars. Let cure for four weeks, turning once a week to expose all sides to the open air. Once cured, wrap in wax paper or keep in an airtight container. Allow the equipment to sit for a few days before cleaning to ensure the lye has neutralized.