Springy, slippery chow fun noodles turn any stir-fry into a favorite

Sometimes people ask me to name a favorite – my favorite vegetable, my favorite legume, my favorite restaurant, my favorite food in general – and it’s an impossible question to answer. There are so many! The choice depends on my mood, and on the situation.

I could say the same thing about noodles, but only to a point. Sure, I love bucatini for some sauces and penne for others. And when I discovered ruffled mafaldine I thought I’d met my one true love. But my affection faded, and I returned to my long-standing conviction, which is a paraphrase of Prince lyrics as sung by Sinéad O’Connor: Nothing compares to chow fun.

These wide rice noodles – also called ho fun – are springy, slippery and a little chewy and, perhaps most important, they absorb sauces so beautifully they end up becoming integral to the dish in a way that doesn’t seem to happen with a lot of other noodles. I overindulge anytime noodles are involved, but with Chinese chow fun dishes (and similar Thai pad see ew), the amount I consume is the amount that’s in front of me. And that’s just as well, because I never like them as much as leftovers, when the noodles tend to clump and get too soft in the reheating.

I had never cooked these favorite noodles at home until I spotted a recipe for Vegetable Chow Fun in Maggie Zhu’s new book, “Chinese Homestyle.” For her take on the Cantonese specialty, she smartly instructs you to slightly undercook the dried noodles, so they don’t get mushy when stir-fried with a bounty of vegetables and a rich, aromatic sauce. There are equal parts veggies and noodles in the dish, and besides the sauce, much of the flavor comes from the liquid the mushrooms exude and the noodles drink up.

I bought plenty of extra noodles while shopping for the dish, and I’m so glad I did, because I’ve made Maggie’s take on chow fun a few more times since. Perhaps even better, I’ve gotten comfortable enough cooking them that I’ve thrown them into my off-the-cuff, clean-out-the-fridge stir-fries, too. Each time, they’ve made what was old taste like a favorite, hands down.

Vegetable Chow Fun

This Chinese dish uses as many vegetables as noodles, which absorb the rich, aromatic sauce. Look for dried wide rice noodles, which have a wonderfully chewy texture, and soak them in hot water instead of boiling, which will keep them from becoming mushy in the stir-fry. As with all stir-fries, it’s best to have everything prepped in advance so you can work quickly.

Where to buy: Dried wide rice noodles, Shaoxing wine and vegetarian hoisin sauce can be found in Asian supermarkets or online.

Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Substitutions: Can’t find dried wide rice noodles? Use thinner ones and adjust the soaking time.

Shaoxing wine? Try dry sherry. Swap our hoisin sauce for the vegetarian oyster sauce, and green beans or asparagus for the broccoli. 

7 ounces dried wide rice noodles

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon vegetarian oyster sauce

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1/2 head (6 ounces total) broccoli 

1/4 cup water

4 tablespoons peanut oil, divided

10 ounces white button mushrooms, sliced

1 medium carrot, trimmed and thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, pressed or finely grated

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

4 scallions, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

2 cups fresh bean sprouts

1 to 2 Asian long red chiles (depending on how spicy you want it), stemmed and thinly sliced

In a large bowl, combine the noodles with enough hot water to cover them by 1 inch. Soak until al dente; the noodles should be flexible enough to wrap around your finger without breaking but still remain a bit tough. Rinse with cold water, drain and return to the bowl. Add the sesame oil and toss to combine.

In a small bowl, combine the Shaoxing wine, light and dark soy sauces, oyster sauce and sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves.

Cut the broccoli into bite-size florets. Trim off the bottom of the stem and use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to remove the outer layer of the stem until you get to the pale interior. Cut the stem in half lengthwise, and then into thin half-moons.

In a large skillet or wok over medium heat, heat the water until it simmers. Add the broccoli, cover and cook until it turns bright green and al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate and discard any remaining water.

In the same skillet or wok over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil until it shimmers. Add the mushrooms and carrot and stir-fry until the mushrooms exude their liquid, it evaporates and they start to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the noodles and drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil over them. Toss to coat the noodles in the oil. Add the cooked broccoli and pour in the sauce. Cook, stirring, until the sauce is mostly absorbed, about 1 minute.

Add the scallions, bean sprouts and chile(s), and cook, stirring, until the scallions are just wilted, to 2 minutes. If the noodles are still a bit tough, add a splash of water and stir-fry until the water is absorbed.

Transfer to a platter or serving plates and serve hot.

Adapted from “Chinese Homestyle” by Maggie Zhu (Rock Point, 2023).