There must be other people out there who remember when every banquet started with a stemmed glass or bowl of canned fruit sometimes topped with a maraschino cherry.

Don’t misunderstand me. Canned fruits and vegetables are an essential addition to the pantry, and there are some dishes that require them and substitutions just won’t do.

Times have changed since the ever-present canned-fruit cup because while most of us here are still wearing boots and woolen gloves, countries below the equator are harvesting an abundant and wide variety of fruits and exporting them to us.

Chile is a prime example. Its location and its rich agricultural soil are ideal for growing the fruits we want, among them apples, pears, about 10 varieties of grapes, peaches, plums, berries, nectarine and kiwifruit.

Chilean fruit is on its way to shipment within a day after it’s harvested, having passed quality-control regulations. All are available now except perhaps for peaches and nectarines, whose seasons are over around the end of March.

Fruit is an excellent way to start a meal, or to end it with a selection of cheese. We have two dinner openers, salads that will sharpen the appetite for the goodies to follow.

In the first, the spinach salad, lemon juice and mustard take a bit of the edge off the honey’s sweetness.

In the Sweet and Spicy salad, a touch of red pepper flakes tickle the taste buds and get them ready for what is coming next. Both are show-off salads for Sunday dinner.

CHILEAN FRESH FRUIT AND SPINACH SALAD

1/2 cup orange juice

1 teaspoon honey

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup vegetable oil

2 ripe Chilean pears, cored and chopped

4 to 5 cups fresh baby spinach (about 5 ounces)

1/2 cup sliced celery

2 cups mixed fresh Chilean berries, including blueberries and raspberries

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

In small pan, over medium-high heat, simmer orange juice until reduced to 1/4 cup; transfer to bowl; cool. Stir in honey, lemon juice, mustard and salt until blended; whisk in oil. Add pears; set aside. Toss spinach with celery; place on large platter. Top with berries; spoon pears with dressing over all; sprinkle with almonds. If desired, serve with sliced ham or prosciutto. Serve immediately. Makes 4 portions.

SWEET AND SPICY FRUIT SALAD

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon rice or apple cider vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 cups Chilean seedless grapes, halved (any combination of red, green and black)

2 kiwifruit, peeled and sliced

1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed (about 6 cups, loosely packed)

In large bowl combine oil, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper flakes. Add fruit; toss gently. Divide watercress among four serving plates; top with fruit; serve immediately. Makes 4 portions.