Pity the poor artichoke.

This tricky-to-eat vegetable didn’t get off to a very good start.

In fact, a Roman naturalist in 77 A.D. called the artichoke “one of Earth’s monstrosities.”

But he obviously never tasted one of the tender, steamed petals dipped in a little mayo.

Sure, if you don’t know what you’re doing, artichokes can seem like impenetrable little buggers, with those layers of tough leaves capped off with sharp thorns. But with a little prep work, they’re surprisingly tasty.

The artichoke is actually a cousin of the thistle. They’re flower buds picked before they get a chance to bloom into large, violet-blue blossoms.

All artichokes sold in the United States get their start in California, with Castroville, Calif., claiming to be the “Artichoke Capital of the World.” (Marilyn Monroe even wore the Artichoke Queen crown in 1947.)

How to choose them: Look for artichokes that are compact and heavy for their size. A fresh artichoke will squeak when squeezed.

When to find them: Most varieties are available year-round.

Where to put them: Flavor starts to take a nosedive as soon as they are picked, so don’t store artichokes for very long. They can be kept unwashed, in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, for up to a week.

Why eat them: Artichokes are very low in calories (only about 25 per serving), have no fat and are high in fiber.

What to do with them: The leaves can be plucked off the cooked choke and dipped in a little sauce. Scrape the tip of the leaf between your teeth to get out the meat. Artichokes can also be stuffed with a variety of fillings. Or, you can use chopped artichoke hearts in soups, salads or pasta dishes.

Artichokes turn brown as soon as the cut ends are exposed to air, so be sure to submerge them in slightly acidic water while you’re preparing them.

To prepare artichokes for steaming, snip off the sharp thorns from the tips of the leaves. Using a chef’s knife, slice off the top quarter of the artichoke (the top two rows of leaves). Cut off the stem to create a flat bottom.

Steamed Artichokes

From “Perfect Vegetables,” from the authors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine

1 lemon, cut in half

4 medium artichokes (8 to 10 ounces each)

2 medium onions

Squeeze the lemon juice into a large bowl filled with cold water. Drop the lemon halves into the water.

Prepare the artichokes as described above and drop them into the water.

Cut two 1 1/2 -inch-thick slices from the middle of each onion; using your fingers, pop out the outer three or four rings from the rest of the slice. Space the onion rings evenly across the bottom of a large pot or Dutch oven and set one trimmed artichoke on top of each ring.

Fill the pot with water to 1/2 inch below the top of the onion rings. Bring the water to boil over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until the outer artichoke leaves release easily when bulled, about 30 minutes. Check the pot periodically to make sure the water has not boiled dry; add more water as needed.

With tongs, carefully remove the artichokes from the pot and cool for at least 15 minutes before serving. They can also be chilled and eaten cool.

Serve with a dipping sauce, such as the one below.

Yield: 4 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 30 calories, no fat, 2 grams protein, 6.7 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 3.5 grams dietary fiber, 60 milligrams sodium.

Mustard Tarragon Vinaigrette

From “Perfect Vegetables”

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon minced, fresh tarragon leaves

1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press

Salt and black pepper

Whisk all the ingredients, including salt and pepper to taste, together in a medium bowl until thoroughly blended. Serve with steamed artichokes.

Yield: About 1/2 cup

Approximate nutrition per 2-tablespoon serving: 137 calories, 14 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 94 percent fat calories, less than 1 gram protein, 1.5 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 240 milligrams sodium.