The glasses were laid out in a semicircle, each with a small pour of red wine and a plastic cover. Although it was still early in the morning, we were ready to taste (and spit). These were the product of Washington State University team’s research, led by professor Tom Collins, into the impacts of wildfire smoke on wine grapes and the wine made from them. I was eager, and a bit hesitant, as I began tasting, from left to right, the six glasses before me.