Diners on the patio at Luna are surrounded by edibles destined for the restaurant’s menu.

Grapes in the midst of turning from green to purple hang on an arbor, Asian pears line the outdoor bar, Japanese eggplant are tucked into planters. On the trees above hang plums, Pink Lady apples and … furry, squat little pears … or, maybe apples?

The fuzzy fruit is actually pineapple quince, an unusual denizen for the Spokane area. The little tree generally fares better in the more temperate climates of California, Latin America, the Middle East, Mediterranean and parts of Asia, but restaurant owner Marcia Bond took a chance and planted one near the Luna patio.

Bond says the tree was not really recommended for growing conditions here but now that it has survived three Inland Northwest winters she’s hopeful it is hearty enough to thrive. Last year, the tree bore a nice crop of 60-plus fruits. This year, there are some 40 quince ripening on the tree.

In the next few weeks, the fruit will turn from green to yellow as it ripens and lose most of its fuzz. “When they’re fully ripe, they smell a bit like pineapple,” says Bond. “It’s very curious.”

I wouldn’t recommend snitching a quince from the tree to taste it. Out of hand, the flesh of what is considered one of the earliest known fruits is incredibly tart and astringent. (To be honest, the slice I tasted made my teeth feel a bit furry, too.)

“You have to use a lot of sugar to get the flavor that you want,” says Luna chef Jeremy Hansen, who plans to make quince paste to accompany Luna’s cheese plate with this year’s crop. He added a bit of Gewürztraminer to a sample he plated with Spanish Manchego cheese. The fruits flesh changes from white to a beautiful blush color as it cooks.

The quince will make its seasonal debut soon after the fruit is harvested in the next few weeks. Luna, which is owned by Marcia and William Bond, celebrates its 15th anniversary in November. It is at 5620 S. Perry St.

Start your engines

NASCAR fans: Here’s a competition you won’t want to miss and there’s some local talent to watch.

Spokane’s Kae O’Brien is one of the eight finalists in the NASCAR Cooks! Race Day Recipe Contest. Her recipe for Speedway Cheese Balls was one of the weekly winners in the national contest.

The grand prize winner will be chosen by fans voting online. On the line is a trip for eight to the NASCAR NEXTEL Cup Series race in Talladega on Oct. 7, including VIP Access passes to the pre-race, and a possible meet-and-greet with Rusty Wallace.

Look inside today’s Food section for O’Brien’s recipe. You’ll also find a profile of O’Brien in Thursday’s edition of Your Voice or online at www.spokesmanreview.com/ voices.