A last look at the falls before returning to B.A.

If you ever do come to the Hotel Tropical das Cataratas, the only hotel thatﾫs located inside Foz do Iguacu National Park , youﾫll likely have dinner here. If you do, ask for Vanderlei Alecio as your waiter. Being Portuguese, he speaks very little English. But he gets by in Spanish. And he is among the most gracious, helpful and friendly waiters I have ever had the pleasure to meet.

We head back to Buenos Aires for the day. Iﾫm still going to try to spend some time in the Plaza de Mayo, the cityﾫs central square where much of the official power sits. Iﾫm especially interested in the Casa Rosada , or Pink House, which is the Argentinean version of our White House. That is where the generals sat during the Guerra Sucia of 1976-83, when the women in white scarves began to march in protest of the many people — sons, husbands, daughters — who were disappeared during those years. The women still march, on Thursdays.

And whatever other emotion that will no doubt strike me, itﾫs clear that this one will be among them: I will miss this beautiful city and the spirited people who inhabit it.

The thought occurs to me: I now have a Brasilian visa that is good through 2010. So I have to return. As the Brasilian movie star Fernanda Montenegro was just quoted as saying (in the inflight magazine Icaro ), “O eterno retorno.” Or, roughly speaking, what goes around, comes around.