Giving Thanks

My dad has a small piece of land on which he raises chickens (pets that lay eggs and have names) and a few dozen heritage-breed turkeys (birds that become dinner and remain UNnamed). (Many of dad’s turkeys are actually hatched and raised by his Bantam chicken hens then join the turkey flock as adolescents). Every year around Thanksgiving his flock thins as turkeys get ready to feed families around town, including ours.

Eating a familiar bird has become a part of our Thanksgiving that I look forward to each year. (I originally didn’t think I would love eating a bird I knew personally, but it’s not so bad, really). Dad’s turkeys are one of the eight original American turkey breeds, which somehow makes the holiday seem a bit more authentic. On a holiday that for many is more about opportunities to shop discounts the day after than taking the time to reflect and be thankful for the bounty we enjoy every day, I found it refreshing to slow down with some slow food (and yes, eat to my heart’s content…did someone say pie?).

This year our Narragansett bird was brined overnight, stuffed with apples, oranges, and onions, then oven roasted. The results: beautiful, juicy, and delicious. The meat on a heritage bird is mostly dark, and there is less breast meat than most of us are used to (these birds have been raised as actual, functioning birds), and they don’t dry out in the oven as easily as most store-bought birds. Dad’s turkeys are not quite free-range (the threat of coyotes and dogs keeps them in a fenced yard), but they spend their time eating apples from the garden and flying around their glorious space. (Yes, these turkeys fly and it is quite a sight to see).

I would love to hear how you prepared your turkey this year or about your favorite Thanksgiving dish.

Turkey Brine:

1 cup kosher salt, ½ cup light brown sugar, 2 quarts vegetable stock, 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, ½ tablespoon allspice berries, 4-5 slices fresh ginger, 2 gallons water: Mix ingredients until salt dissolves, and pour brine in an ice chest big enough for your bird. Add water if necessary so turkey is completely covered with brine and add ice to keep the bird at a safe temperature overnight. Set in a cool place for 8 hours or overnight, adding ice if necessary (if the ice in the brine remains frozen, you’re good). Remove the turkey when he’s ready to roast, and rinse it well inside and out with cold water. Discard the brine and roast according to your favorite recipe.