We love glamping, San Juan Island style

One of the many joys of camp hosting at Spencer Spit State Park is that we can easily island-hop among the San Juans. So far, we’ve been to Orcas for a fun day trip, and last week, we spent a memorable night on San Juan Island.

The trip began with a bike ride to the Lopez Island ferry landing, a scenic 25-minute trek along Port Stanley Road. (Islander pro tip: Check the real-time map on the Washington State Ferries website for the latest information on your vessel.)

Traveling inter-island as a walk-on passenger is a great way to go. You don’t need a ticket, and when we landed at Friday Harbor, we got to take off on two wheels before the cars unloaded. After a couple of twists and turns, we were on Roche Harbor Road heading toward Lakedale Resort .

This venerable destination has been making guests feel right at home in the woods for decades. A friend has been urging us to check it out for years, and we’re so glad we finally took the plunge.

If Lakedale feels like an island itself, that’s because it is surrounded by water, with three spring-fed lakes created by the original owner of the property.

Guests can choose from a wide range of accommodations including a small RV park – unfortunately, no full hookups there, just water and electric – as well as canvas tents with plush king beds and bathrooms, and pitch-your-own-tent sites.

The magnificent log cabin lodge at the heart of the resort is home to traditional guest rooms, which are reserved for visitors 16-and-up. Log cabins designed to sleep six or more all have lovely lakeside views. These often play host to family reunions, wedding parties and straight-up summer vacations.

Yurts were added to the mix six years ago, billed as luxury digs.

The last time we stayed in a yurt was while vacationing at an Oregon state park more than 20 years ago. We were not impressed with the rock-hard mattresses on bunk beds and the lingering fragrance of the many who’d slept there before us.

So our expectations were pretty low before arriving at the Lakedale yurt. Surprise! Jaws dropped after walking in the front door: Wow, look at that comfy cobalt blue couch in front of a flat-screen TV and a gas fireplace when evenings turn chilly. The snug kitchen is well stocked with plates, toast-worthy glassware, a mini fridge and microwave. The gorgeous deck beckoned with more seating, a private hot tub and gas grill. Now this is legit glamping.

Why would we bother leaving this inviting space? Well, because there’s a lake to jump into for starters. And on this Wednesday during the waning shoulder season, we had the swimming beach to ourselves. Yay!

After an afternoon swim, we hopped back on the bikes to go to Roche Harbor Resort for happy hour. This historic property dates back to 1886 and its marina is a magnet for the region’s thriving boat culture. Way back when, it was a favorite stop for seasoned sailor and Oscar winner John Wayne .

We stopped in at the Madrona Bar & Grill for some blackened rockfish tacos and cold beverages on the sun-drenched deck, then hit the Company Store at Roche Harbor and bought a steak to grill back at our luxury yurt.

After an excellent dinner in our glamping digs, we settled in for a night of TV viewing of some favorites we’ve not been able to stream at the campground: “Ted Lasso” followed by “Succession.”

After a late night soak in the hot tub – and 20-plus miles on the bikes – we slept like babes in the woods. What a treat!