Eager Spring Bulbs Can Withstand Freezing

This springlike weather is great for awakening the spirit. However, judging from the exposed leaves of the tulips and daffodils, our spirits aren’t the only things being awakened. These anxious plants want to experience the mild temperatures, too.

But what happens to them if temperatures again decide to plummet?

Don’t be too concerned. Spring flowering bulbs can tolerate freezing temperatures even if they have started their growth cycle. If the temperatures get too cold, they will simply stop growing. When the temperatures warm up, growth is resumed.

The only parts of the bulb that pay the piper for their curiosity are the exposed leaves.

Leaves that have been hit by frost will be easy to identify eventually. They’ll be the ones that are ripped and torn.

The bulb itself should be just fine as long as it doesn’t sit in water. Saturated bulbs usually rot.

If you have these curious Georges poking out of the ground, you might cover them with needles, leaves or straw if temperatures suddenly drop below 20 degrees. Otherwise, expect a few shredded leaves and leave them to Mother Nature.

Q. Can old seed be planted? Bertha, Spokane

A. Absolutely. However, most garden books will strongly encourage gardeners to use new seed each year. This is mainly to ensure success. After all, these poor little seeds have enough to contend with in the spring - wet and cold soil, gray days, hard rains and hungry critters.

Still, if last year’s seed or even seed kept for many years has been handled properly, it should be just as viable as new seed.

A simple test: Roll ten or so seeds in a dampened paper towel. Slip the towel into a clear plastic bag. Set the baggie on a sunny window sill for a couple of days.

Check the seeds by gently unrolling the towel. If the majority of the seeds have germinated, the seeds are viable. (Some seeds take longer than others to germinate. Read the germinating label on the seed package for this information.)

There are seeds, such as peas, that simply can be soaked for a day. Those that plump up are viable, and the shriveled ones are feed for the compost pile.

To demonstrate the incredible tenacity of some seeds:

One spring I found a package of bunching onions outside. It had been sitting on a log all winter. I planted them, and they germinated.

This is not the recommended method for keeping seed, but it does demonstrate that seed can be carried over.

If seed is very old, and the tests prove most of it to be viable, simply sow the seed closer together with the firm commitment that you will thin the emerging seedlings later.

Q. Is it time to bring stored geraniums out of hibernation? Martin, Coeur d’Alene

A. It sure is. For those geraniums that have been resting all winter with their feet above their heads, turn them upright and soak their roots in a pail of water for a week or so.

Watch the water. If it becomes filmy, change it or add a little fresh water to the tub.

Working with one geranium at a time, prune the top back so the plant is only about 4 inches tall. Gently unravel the roots and cut away all but 4 inches of the root system.

Pot each geranium into a light potting mix. Set them in front of the window that receives the most light.

Be patient. It may take weeks before the plants decide to show signs of life.

The same procedures can be followed for geraniums that were saved over in containers. If they still have their leaves, simply cut the plants back to about 4 inches, water them, and place them in a cool room with as much direct sunlight as possible.

This same procedure can be followed for geraniums that are completely dormant (no leaves) but still planted in pots. However, I like to remove these plants from the old soil and treat them in the same manner as bare root geraniums.

Whichever method you choose, remember the key is: a cool room, 55-65 degrees; direct sunlight, (a grow light will help); and don’t overwater.

Q. What is the secret for getting a forsythia branch to bloom inside? Margaret, Spokane.

A. Oh, this should be a great year for forcing any of the spring flowering branches. With sharp shears, collect the branches you desire, cutting them at an angle just above a dormant bud.

Carefully prepare the stem end. Make two or three 1-inch vertical slices in the stem, at the base. This increases the exposure of plant cells and maximizes their ability to absorb water.

The old practice of smashing the stems severely with a club diminishes the number of plant cells able to take up water and nutrients. Not only will this reduce the number of blossoms, but smashed stems can look a little tacky in a clear vase.

Once the stems are cut, soak the entire branch in a warm-water bath for two to three hours.

Soaking the branches softens the winter tissue protection around the buds. It also removes dirt, old plant debris and critters.

Place the branches in a container of water and set them in a warm room. Change the water often and fertilize with a little liquid fertilizer.

Misting the buds will help to prevent dehydration. Spraying the flowers with an anti-transpirant will also help keep them fresh and healthy.

Sweet spring blossoms will emerge one to five weeks later, depending on the plant.