Skiing And Frontier History Found In Red Lodge

Frontier history and spring skiing are an unbeatable combination for travelers to Red Lodge, Mont.

This is the town where the Sundance Kid, Kid Curry and the Wild Bunch attempted to rob the Carbon County bank, and where the famous mountain man, “Liver Eating” Johnson, was the constable.

Visitors can stay in the same hotel (newly renovated Pollard Hotel) as did Johnson, Buffalo Bill Cody, Calamity Jane and William Jennings Bryan. Then guests can hop on a free shuttle bus for the six-mile ride to Red Lodge Mountain Ski Area, Montana’s highest and sunniest ski area.

The family-oriented mountain typically gets most of its snow in the spring, so alpine skiing can be superior late in the season to most Inland Northwest ski resorts. The mountain’s signature run is the long Lazy M, a great cruising trail for intermediate skiers.

Cross-country skiers can enjoy the excellent machine-groomed nordic trails at the Red Lodge Nordic Center (406-425-1070). The trails are double track-set with an extra wide skating lane in-between.

Rentals for all ages are available. Be sure to carry a camera because moose and deer are frequently seen along the trail routes.

There are many miles of snow-covered forest roads in the nearby mountains for the more adventuresome nordic skier.

Spring offers a host of recreation opportunities on the mountains and in the valleys, from snow sports (including snowmobiling and snowsheing at higher elevations) to golfing, fishing, biking, horseback riding and hiking lower down. As the snows retreat, the wildflowers color the hillsides.

Red Lodge got its name from the tepees of the local Crow Indians, who painted their lodges with red clay. The town site was once the Crow summer camp.

The discovery of coal, needed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, brought hundreds of Finn, Scottish, Irish, Italian, Slavic and Scandinavian miners to the town, which is now dependent on the ranching industry and tourism. Most of the buildings in the town’s central business district are listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Preservation efforts have retained the original 1800s era of stone and brick building architecture.

A visit to Red Lodge would not be complete without cheering on your favorite porker at Bearcreek Downs. Piglets race indoors during the winter months at the Bearcreek Saloon (406 446-3481), seven miles east of town on Highway 308. The piglets enjoy running around the small oval track to reach food. There is no cruelty involved.

Yes, you can legally bet to see if your porker will “bring home the bacon.” The sports pool method of betting sends half of each pool to a scholarship fund for local students. The pig races are held every Friday and Saturday night, and are fun for the whole family.

Children are welcomed and invited to sit up front near the glass wall. The saloon specializes in Mexican food, which comes in large portions at a modest cost. The pig races will be a memorable moment of your family’s visit to Red Lodge.

MEMO: This sidebar ran with story: IF YOU GO Getting there: Red Lodge is a 400-mile drive east of Spokane. The rural ranching community is about 60 miles south of Billings. Northwest, Delta, and Horizon provide airline service to Billings from Spokane.

Suitability for children: Families with children of all ages will find fun and interesting things to do in the Red Lodge area. The local ski area has earned a reputation as a family-priced ski vacation destination.

Tour operators: Half- and full-day rafting trips are available on the Stillwater and Yellowstone Rivers through Beartooth Whitewater, (406) 446-3142. Fishing, hunting, horseback riding, and wildlife viewing and photographing trips are available through Black Butte Outfitters, (406) 446-2800 or 446-3097.

Where to stay and eat: The Pollard Hotel (2 N. Broadway, 406-446-0001 or 800-POLLARD) is the centerpiece for the town’s historical district. The newly renovated hotel is listed with Historic Hotels of America. It offers full-service dining and has an indoor fitness center. Rates begin at $60. Rock Creek Resort (Highway 212, 406-446-1111) sits next to Rock Creek, which is noted for its excellent fly-fishing, and at the foot of the spectacular Beartooth Mountains. It offers full-service dining and has an indoor fitness center. Rates begin at $65. The Willows Inn Bed & Breakfast (224 S. Platt, 406-446-3913) is a luxuriously appointed turn-of-the-century Victorian home, which originally was a boarding house for miners. Rates begin at $50. For a brochure listing lodging and restaurants in the Red Lodge area, call the Red Lodge Chamber of Commerce, (406) 446- 1718. For a Montana Bed & Breakfast Association brochure, (800) 453-8870.

For more information: For a copy of Red Lodge Visitor’s Guide, Red Lodge Area Chamber of Commerce, (406) 446-1718. For copies of Montana Travel Planner and Vacation Guide, Travel Montana, (800) VISIT MT.

Seasonal events: The 65th Home of Champions Parade and Rodeo will be July 2-4. The celebration is part of the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association circuit. The annual Red Lodge Mountain Man Rendezvous will be held July 21-30. With their historic clothing and primitive trappings, a variety of mountain men, cavalry, infantry, Indians, traders, free-trappers, muleskinners, horse traders, scouts and buffalo hunters descend upon Red Lodge to take part in contests of skill and trading, much like their pioneer counterparts did in the 1800s. Red Lodge will host the 45th annual Festival of Nations on August 5-13. The festival was started as a way for the many nationalities of Red Lodge to learn about the cultures of their neighbors. A different nation is the theme for each day of the nine-day festival during which the customs, food and crafts of that country can be enjoyed.

Government agencies: For forest campground sites and trails for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, mountain biking and hiking, Beartooth Ranger District, (406) 446-2103. For visitor services in Yellowstone National Park, (307) 344-7381. For state park facilities, Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks, (406) 444-2535.

Miscellany: Magpie Toymakers (115 N. Broadway, 406-446-3044) is one shop that families won’t want to miss. Many of the wooden toys are crafted at the shop. Kibler & Kirch (22 N. Broadway, 406-446-2802) has everything from rustic baskets woven with native branches to log furniture. Sylvan Peak Enterprises (9 S. Broadway, 406-446-1770 or 800-425-0076) is where you can have your outdoor clothing custom-made in the small factory. Red Lodge Mountain Ski Area: Snow line and mountain office: (406) 446-2610.Central reservations: (800) 444-8977. Adult lift tickets are $25 ($15 on Mondays and Tuesday) Children (12 and under) are $10. Closing date this year: April 9.