Dealing In Delhi Snake Charmers, Trained Monkeys Draw Attention From The Hard-Core Haggling In The Frenzied Indian Markets

Can cows be claustrophobic?

Not if they live in India, not if they dwell in Delhi, and not if they wander Chandni Chowk.

Chandni Chowk is Delhi’s historic, hyperactive, heartland - a bumper-to-bumper marketplace of exhaustspewing motorcycle rickshaws and mopeds zipping like angry wasps. It’s a labyrinth of let’s-make-a-deal merchants, always smiling as they peer from shop doors festooned with garlands of marigolds.

Frenzy gives way to momentary calm, however, when a creamcolored “sacred cow” enters Chandni Chowk’s cramped back-alley byways, spies a snippet of shade, and plops down in the busy thoroughfare like a lump of laundry. Bicyclists dismount and maneuver around this impromptu roadblock, strollers sidestep horns and hoofs, and handcarts laden with fruits and vegetables queue up to make their passage. No one seems perturbed, least of all the cow.

Patience truly becomes a virtue in Delhi, not only for her 9 million inhabitants, but also for the estimated one million foreign tourists who annually descend upon India’s capital in search of clamor and color. Visitors easily encounter both by plunging into the thick of Delhi’s numerous markets. It’s here that goods from across India flow in like a mercantile monsoon. It’s here that buyers and sellers find shopping Nirvana, for Delhi is the bazaar of all bazaars.

It’s also more than just a bit bizzare. Cows don’t frequent my suburban shopping mall. Nor do snake charmers, trained monkeys, or trumpeting elephants. Yet, in Delhi, all of this awaits those who thrive on the sound of ringing registers amid carnival chaos.

Shopping expeditions begin at the currency exchange, where the U.S. dollar struts like a champ. Mr. Franklin and Jefferson may be taking a drubbing from the likes of the yen and the Deutsche mark, but when it comes to the rupee, the greenback holds a 30-to-1 margin. This, coupled with India’s cheap prices, can quickly make even the most frugal traveler feel like the maharaja of the market.

Delhi is divided into two parts, old and new. Old Delhi served as Muslim India’s capital between the 12th and 19th centuries. Shah Jahan, the 17thcentury ruler who built the Taj Mahal, graced the city with the mighty Red Fort and the Jami Masjid, India’s largest mosque.

The old city’s bazaars recall those earlier days with commotion-filled lanes jam-packed with open air stalls redolent with the aroma of exotic spices, incense and humanity. Choose Chandni Chowk for its sidestreet markets, each specializing in a commodity - silver jewelry in Dariba Kalan, beads in the Kinari Bazaar, perfume in Cariba Kalan.

Around the Jami Masjid runs the Meena Bazaar with a distinctive Islamic flavor, especially crowded on Sundays with throngs in search of goods ranging from bolts of cotton to caged chickens.

New Delhi, created by the British Raj as their imperial capital, is far more orderly with wide roads, spacious parks, and colonial mansions. Connaught Place should really be called “cannot place,” because visitors here can’t resist the urge to spend, spend, spend. Topping the list of part-the-doors-and-openyour-wallet stops are the government-run shopping enclaves: the Central Cottage Industries Emporium on Janpath Road, and nearby, the individual emporiums for each of India’s states and union territories.

The chief benefit of these places is that they represent the best of Indian goods and handicrafts all under one roof. Whether it’s bronzes of the elephant-headed Hindu god Ganesh, colorful miniature paintings, silk saris as sheer as last year’s memories, finely woven carpets, sandalwood carvings smooth as flower petals, or inlaid marble boxes, it’s here. Quality is high, credit cards are accepted, shipping can be arranged, and prices are fixed.

Advantages aside, the emporiums are a timid shopping experience by Indian standards.The true art of buying and selling occurs out in the open, in the streets. But it’s here that shoppers contend with dealing Delhi style, meaning bargain - and bargain hard.

Haggling over the price of nearly everything, except food, is expected. “Unless you bargain you’ll be cheated left, right, and center,” explains one British expatriate while we share a cab. “When dealers see foreigners, they hike the price, so start your offer low and be prepared to walk away.”

Walking away isn’t always easy. While exploring Karol Bagh, a bazaar west of Chandni Chowk, I venture too close to a Kashimiri rug dealer. Charm oozes from him like dripping honey, and I soon find myself ensconced in his dusty shop, sipping cardamom-laced tea.

An all-silk runner, done up with intricate geometric designs colored in a faint purple hue that would match the tint of Elizabeth Taylor’s eyes, catches my eye. I ask, “How much?” “This carpet is 50 years old,”the shopkeeper purrs, “A 94-year-old man went blind weaving this - it’s artwork.”

“How much?” I repeat. “Two thousand dollars,” he replies. My brow furrows. I was born at night, but not last night. Even I could tell the carpet was new. No doubt someone got eyestrain weaving it, but as far as a 94-year-old man going blind? Baloney. I counter with $200.

The salesman gasps, and I prepare to exit. He sees my intentions. Quick as a cobra he springs to his feet, and fetches other carpets, unrolling them pell-mell. A kaleidoscope of colored silk and wool lie at my feet. I’m trapped.

Monkeys to the rescue. Dashing through the doorway come a pair of primates, one wearing a hat and vest, the other a dress. Close on their tails, and leashes, runs a little boy brandishing a short stick and a good deal of Hindu expletives.

The rug merchant screeches his own choice words, as he shoos the diminutive furry couple into the arms of their trainer. Taking advantage of the disruption, I head for the door, pausing briefly to slip a 10 rupee note into Mrs. Monkey’s paw. Reconsidering, I dig into my pockets and fish out an additional 20 rupees. At the equivalent of less than a dollar, a Delhi-shopping sideshow may be the city’s best bargain.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO HOW TO BUY Delhi’s markets are not only numerous, they are also spread over the entire city. A minimum of three days is required to examine the highlights of the shopping extravaganza. Getting to and from bazaars is best done by taxi or auto rickshaw, both of which are inexpensive; a 10-mile jaunt, which can take upwards of an hour in Delhi’s traffic, will cost less than $3. Generally speaking, fares are metered, but since the devices seldom work, negotiate the fare before the ride. The old suggestion to take along an extra suitcase for toting back your purchases is no better heeded than in Delhi. The best buys run the gamut from home furnishings to ready-to-wear. Put the following items at the top of your shopping list: hand-woven carpets; bronze figurines of Hindu gods and goddesses; carved wooden furniture and images of animals crafted from rosewood, walnut, or sandalwood; papier mache boxes and masks; miniature paintings; leatherwork made from buffalo-hide or camel; gold jewelry and beaded necklaces; glazed pottery; and especially textiles. India produces more than 300 different varieties of silk weaves from brocade to chiffon, as well as fine homespun cotton. Shoppers will encounter numerous beggars in the bazaars, as poverty is a sad reality in Delhi. Visitors should be cautious about instantly opening their wallets though. In Delhi, as in other major Indian cities, begging had become an organized institution lorded over by pauper princes, who take a high percentage of the take leaving little for the actual recipient. For people who wish to offer help to the needy, consider giving to charity instead. Major hotels such as the Hyatt Regency Delhi, for instance, have identified reputable local organizations which help the poor, ensuring the funds are well used. Unless you’re shopping exclusively in a department store or the government-run shops, most transactions will be in cash, that is rupees. Although the larger stores accept all major credit cards, some will add on a 5 to 7 percent service charge. All items, except linens and clothes, are subject to a sales tax from between 3 and 12 percent, though the actual application of this is somewhat sporadic, particularly in the bazaars. GETTING THERE The most extensive air schedules to Delhi are offered by Air India with service from New York’s JFK airport. Call (212) 751-6200 or your local travel agent for more information. STAYING THERE Delhi offers several Western-style hotels with the Hyatt Regency topping the list. Call 800-233-1234 for reservations or information. MORE INFORMATION For more information about Delhi contact the India Tourist Office, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10112, telephone (212) 586-4901; or 3550 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 204, Los Angeles, CA 90010, telephone (213) 380-8855.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Dan Klinglesmith Special to Travel