Ocean View And Breezes To Match On Cape Cod And Martha’s Vineyard

You could say the Pilgrims were the first tourists to visit Cape Cod. In fact, they landed here on Nov. 11, 1620, before they ever set foot on mainland America. They apparently liked what they saw, tarrying for more than a month before sailing on across Cape Cod Bay to Plymouth.

It must have been a pleasurable respite, after weeks aboard a crowded ship. The Indians were friendly, the forest was full of game, and the nutrient-rich Atlantic was a cornucopia of seafood. Cod were so plentiful that they could be caught by simply dragging a wicker basket through the water.

These days, the locals are still friendly and fresh seafood abounds, although the once-rich cod fishery had been severely depleted by overfishing. The ancient Indian trails are now paved highways, carrying thousands of tourists every year seeking the sun and sand of Cape Cod and nearby Martha’s Vineyard.

Formed by glaciers, Cape Cod is a 70-mile-long, scrub-pined, sand-duned island connected to mainland Massachusetts by two bridges. Route 6, the main highway, runs between the Sangamore Bridge and Provincetown, at the Cape’s tip. It is the quickest route across the Cape, but not the most scenic. The primary, often congested highway along the southern coast is Route 28, which extends from the Bourne Bridge to Hyannis, passing through several peaceful villages and by dozens of strip shopping centers along the way. Route 28A still retains much of the old Cape Cod mood, winding its way through somnolent villages and quiet harbors between Bourne and Falmouth. Just as charming is Route 6A, which follows the north shoreline from the Sagamore Bridge to Orleans.

Sandwich is the oldest settlement on Cape Cod. Situated on the Upper Cape, near the Sagamore Bridge, it was established in 1637 by 60 families from Plymouth Colony. The town center is classic Cape Cod, complete with grist mill and a tree-shaded pond. Steepled churches and colonial houses surround the village green.

Also on the Upper Cape is Falmouth, a large town made up of several small villages. One of these villages is Woods Hole, home of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and the Marine Biological Laboratory.

Farther east are the bright lights and shopping malls of the “Hub of the Cape,” Hyannis. The town was named for the Indian chieftain who helped the Pilgrims. According to legend, he later sold the land to them for 20 pounds and two pairs of pants. The late President Kennedy’s Hyannisport vacation home became the summer White House during his presidency. President Kennedy called Hyannisport a special place, “where no two summers were quite the same.” Many visitors stop in Hyannis to see the JFK Museum and monument. The sprawling waterfront Kennedy compound is still used by the family but can only be viewed from the water.

The tree-shaded streets of Chatham beg to be strolled upon. This village is full of historic buildings, festive taverns, restaurants, and antique shops. Chatham Light, near the public beach, is one of the Cape’s most photographed lighthouses. The Chatham Fish Pier, where a fleet of small fishing boats unload their day’s catch amid the watchful eyes of throngs of hopeful seagulls, is well worth a visit.

Routes 6, 6A, and 28 converge at the village of Orleans, the commercial center of the Lower Cape. This centrally located village, squeezed in between the Atlantic and Cape Cod Bay, boasts spectacular sunrises and sunsets. Some of the Cape’s best beaches and golf courses are located nearby. Shell-fishing for soft-shell clams, quahogs, oysters, mussels, and scallops is good at Pleasant Bay, Cape Cod Bay, or Town Cove.

From Orleans, Route 6 swings to the north, meandering through the picturesque Lower Cape towns of Eastham, Wellfleet, and Truro, then curves back sharply to the west before terminating at Provincetown.

The laid-back, partying atmosphere of Provincetown reminds one of Key West, Fla. There are more than 20 art galleries here, in what is commonly considered the nation’s oldest art colony. The likes of Sinclair Lewis, Norman Mailer, and Tennessee Williams frequented Provincetown in years past. Inspired by a walk on nearby Race Point Beach, Thoreau wrote, “Here a man can stand and put all America behind him.”

This was once a whaling town, and many of today’s boats make their living by transporting passengers out to observe the humpback and fin whales which call here seasonally. Many of Provincetown’s residents are Portuguese fishermen, whose Blessing of the Fleet ceremony in June is one of the Cape’s most colorful and popular events. Dominating the skyline is the Pilgrim Monument, a 255-foot tower which affords a commanding view of Provincetown and its harbor, as well as across-the-bay Plymouth.

Beyond Provincetown, the tip of the Lower Cape is edged by sandy beaches which are wrapped around vast areas of wind-swept sand dunes and scrub pines. Miles of hiking and biking trails wind their way through this pristine wilderness area.

Martha’s Vineyard, an island lying just five miles off the southern coast of Cape Cod, is also an excellent day-trip for Cape visitors.

Once a whaling outpost, the Vineyard has become an extremely popular vacation retreat. Its abundance of good restaurants, fabulous sandy beaches and laid-back atmosphere draws thousands of visitors each year. Several celebrities, including Walter Cronkite and the late Jacqueline Onassis, have summer homes here, and now even President Clinton has succumbed to the island’s New England charm. Stephen Spielberg added a little notoriety to the 20-mile-long island by filming the movie “Jaws” here.

Up-Island and Down-Island are terms which have been used by the Vineyard’s residents for generations. The nautically derived terms are a little confusing for newcomers but will probably be around as long as there are surviving Vineyarders.

Up-Island is the western half, an area better-known for its bucolic countryside, wind-sculptured dunes, and wide sandy beaches than for its nightlife. The towering Gay Head Cliffs overlook a beach which is still frequented by nudists, even though nudity is now illegal.

Menemsha is everyone’s mental image of a New England fishing village. The weather-beaten boathouses and docks, festooned with crab traps, fishing nets, and floats, have long been a favorite subject for artists and photographers.

Most of the shops, best restaurants, and nightlife are Down-Island, the eastern half of the Vineyard. Vineyard Haven, the island’s main commercial district, is the landing point for most ferry riders (the most popular way of reaching the island). Many of the island’s permanent residents live here, taking advantage of the movies, theaters, and lectures which are offered all year.

The town doesn’t sell liquor, so the evenings are very quiet. There are several nice shops and good restaurants, along with a couple of small beaches, but most tourists spend most of their time elsewhere on the island (not, however, before picking up a sack of goodies from the Black Dog Bakery).

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO CAPE COD Getting there: Most visitors simply drive across one of the two bridges which cross the Cape Cod Canal. Several airlines have flights from various cities to Hyannis. Amtrak has trains running between New York City and the Cape during the summer months. Buses run frequently from New York, Providence and Boston. Seasons: July and August are the busiest months, but there are festivals and other events from May through September. Lodging: There are scores of inns, motels, and bed-and-breakfasts on the Cape, offering a wide variety of features and prices. A small sampling: Mostly Hall, in 1849 sea captain’s house in Falmouth, is now a popular bed and breakfast. Rooms are $80-$115. (800) 682-0565. The Dan’l Webster Inn, in Sandwich, is a 300-year-old parsonage which has been converted into a luxurious 46-room hotel that appeals to the older generation. Rooms are $100 to $275. (800) 444-3566, or (508) 888-3622. Festivals: May: the Herb Festival, at the Green Briar Nature Center in East Sandwich. June: The Portuguese Blessing of the Fleet and the Provincetown Soup and Chowder Festival in Provincetown, and the Hyannis Harbor Festival in Hyannis. July: The Barnstable County fair in East Falmouth.

MARTHA’S VINEYARD Getting there: Ferries run regularly to Martha’s Vineyard from the Cape Cod towns of Falmouth, Hyannis, and Wood’s Hole. They are crowded during summer, so it is best to arrive at the dock early. The Vineyard is serviced by various airlines. Flights are scheduled year round from several cities in the New York area. Getting around: The best way to see the island is by car. There are many car rental agencies on the Vineyard, and at least one ferry will transport cars from Cape Cod. Bicycles can be brought over on the ferries and are also available for rent on the island. Bicycling can be a bit hazardous in many places during the summer months, due to the heavy automobile traffic. Mopeds are available but are even more accident-prone than bicycles. Although popular, they are frowned upon by the Vineyard’s residents because they tend to block traffic. Seasons: The peak season is June through mid-September. The daytime temperature during this period averages around 70 degrees. In September and October, the evenings can be quite cool but the days are still pleasantly warm for visitors wishing to avoid the summer crowds and take advantage of reduced hotel rates. The inns are full again on Thanksgiving weekend and during the Christmas season, but otherwise few visitors brave the bone-chilling winds of winter.

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Story and photos by D. Holden Bailey Special to Travel