Popcorn Stand Offers Kernel Of Teryear

In his red bow tie and suspenders, Bob Buhl definitely stands out.

The guy running the gourmet popcorn kiosk at the University City Rosauers is a living anachronism compared to the bright white, bustling supermarket. That’s just fine with him.

His stand, named Popcorn Allie after his 2-year-old daughter, is fire-engine red with glass and brass accents, and the popcorn machine is a reproduction of an 1890 model.

“I knew I wanted to shoot for that turn-of-the-century era,” Buhl, 34, said. “I think it was a much friendlier world.”

For him, it’s one of the many roles he has played in his life. No pin-striped suit for Buhl. The closest he ever got to that was managing entertainers and handling marketing for the Silverwood theme park.

He graduated from Central Valley High School in 1980, and then attended a community college in Yakima to study theater.

“After graduation, I moved directly to Connecticut to seek out to be the next Dustin Hoffman,” Buhl said, laughing.

Buhl lived in the homes of folks who supported theater. He worked as a character actor in summer and dinner theater groups, and rode the bus to New York regularly to look for more work.

“After three years of that I decided to throw in the towel and get back to reality,” he said.

Logical? Sort of. He toured the country doing pantomime.

For six seasons Buhl did that, and came home to work at Riverfront Park between tours. In the early 1990s, the combined experience paid off in the form of a job as a Silverwood entertainer. By year’s end, he was promoted to entertainment and marketing manager there. He and wife Jean lived right on the theme park grounds.

When he heard the longtime owners of U-City’s Ventris Candy N’ Carmelcorn retired, he had The Idea: Catch the popcorn ball and run with it.

“It was common practice for me and my buddies to ride our bikes down to U-City and buy a box of carmelcorn there … that was a Saturday ritual all through our growing up years.”

Today’s kids shouldn’t miss that opportunity, Buhl decided. He bought some equipment and phoned up Norma Ventris, the matriarch of confections. She gave him her recipes and even showed him how to perfect the treats.

“She didn’t charge me a dime,” Buhl said.

That’s because Ventris saw potential under that vaudeville hat. “I knew if anyone can do it, I’m sure he can,” she said. “He’s really a character.”

The Valley son had come home. Now he serves up his caramel, Oregon cheddar, Wisconsin white cheddar, sour cream and chives popcorn with a smile and an occasional magic trick. Kids waiting to get change back risk having their quarter pulled out their of ear.

“Once a performer, always a performer,” is Buhl’s motto.

On Thursday, two teenagers buying bags of goodies from the stand didn’t come because of that kind of hocus pocus.

It was another kind of magic that drew them: The Smell.

“It has good service, too,” said Ryan Knodel, 16, as he reached in his bag for another handful. His companion, Nicole Ray, said the flashing light above the kiosk helps.

It might not be enough, though, Buhl said. He’s looking for another spot where people aren’t in as much of a rush as they are when racing the grocery circuit.

“I’m trying to recreate a time when customer service really meant something,” he said. “Where you can actually chat with the customer at the counter…. make friends as well as customers, so everybody is on a first-name basis. It used to be like that.”

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Photo

MEMO: Saturday’s People is a column featuring remarkable Valley people. To suggest subjects for future columns, please write The Valley Voice, 13208 E. Sprague, Spokane, WA 99216, or call editor Mike Schmeltzer at 927-2170.