Tahoe Time With Slopes Galore And Casinos Aplenty, Lake Tahoe Is Surrounded By High-Energy Entertainment

Tucked away in the Sierra Nevada mountains, Lake Tahoe offers more than just a great winter ski vacation.

Fifteen ski areas scattered around the lake (which straddles the California/Nevada border, about 200 miles from San Francisco) provide maximum miles on the slopes for even the most avid powder hound, while resorts and casinos offer plenty of nightlife.

After flying into the Reno/Tahoe International Airport, there are several choices of where to base your attack on the area’s ski resorts.

Traditionalists might prefer Tahoe City and Truckee on the north side of the lake in California. With a more typical ski-town atmosphere, the north side offers easy access to several resorts, including Squaw Valley, host of the 1960 Winter Olympics.

But straddling the border on the south shore may appeal to the riskier skier - that is, someone who can hit the slopes smiling after rolling the dice all night at Harrah’s.

Staying on the south shore gives you access within minutes to Heavenly Ski Resort, and it’s only a 40- to 50-minute drive (faster when the roads are clear) to Kirkwood or Sierra-at-Tahoe.

If you’re looking for a quaint alpine ski village, head somewhere else, though. “Cute” isn’t the south shore’s forte.

Most of the hotels and restaurants line U.S. Highway 50 - a four-lane street with about as much visual appeal as North Division in Spokane.

The city of South Lake Tahoe (the California side) blends right in with Stateline (the Nevada side), except for one neon-clad difference - the casinos crowding the border like racers at the starting line.

An after-hours playground, the casinos offer Nevada’s best excesses - gambling, imbibing and first-rate entertainment. Only at Tahoe can you ski world-class slopes all day and catch Rosie O’Donnell’s comedy show after dinner.

Getting up before noon will be much more challenging than any mogul field you encounter. (Maybe that’s why the snow gods invented half-day tickets.)

While Tahoe in general is a destination ski area, the actual ski hills (at least on the south side) have ambience more typical of day-trip locations. When the snow is great, noboby cares, but I didn’t encounter some of the amenities (easy ski check, free waxing, extra-friendly lift operators) that are common at destination resorts in Utah or Colorado.

All three south side resorts welcome snowboarders as well as skiers. While the entire ski areas are open to boarders, special runs with extra obstacles designed especially for boarding offer an extra challenge.

Skiers accustomed to the challenging slopes of the Northwest will find the rating system at all three of the southside resorts to be on the easy side. I’m usually a blue square and occasional black diamond skier, but I consistently skiied black diamond runs at all three of the south Tahoe resorts (a definite reason to return!).

My advanced-to-expert ski partner was on a quest for the perfect powder (he found plenty) and enjoyed the challenge of the double black diamond runs.

Beware of cat tracks wearing green circles - these can be so flat you will wish you had packed along your nordic skis for the trek.

Heavenly

At 4,800 acres and a vertical drop of 3,500 feet, Heavenly bills itself as the largest ski resort in the nation. Using one of the 25 lifts (including 3 high-speed quads and a tram), skiers can cruise the slopes in two states.

Most skiers access the mountain and buy their tickets ($44) on the California side, but there are lodges and parking on the Nevada side, too.

Expert skiers will want to point their boards to Killebrew and Mott canyons. The truly steep and deep skiing clears out the less-experienced and leaves plenty of room for the pros.

Crowds can be a problem at this popular resort. The number of lifts keep the lines reasonably short, but the sheer number of people can make navigation a challenge where groomed cruising runs converge into narrow channels.

The day we visited (during a school holiday week), almost two feet of new snow blanketed the mountain. This was great for the better skiers, but it meant any groomed runs were packed with the less skilled. I tried to take a relaxing cruise before lunch and spent the entire time dodging skiers every 50 feet.

My ski partner found some terrific runs at the top of the Sky Express runs. While the vast terrain is nice, the best way to ski this mountain is to pick a general area and stick with it for a few hours. Skiing the whole mountain requires several long, flat traverses that will wear you out before you ever head downhill.

Skiers can take a mid-day break mid-mountain at the Sky Deck. Patio seating lets you enjoy the bright sun while noshing on burgers and beer. If you want to warm up indoors, there are lodges at both bases as well as facilities at the East Peak and at the top of the tram.

Kirkwood

Wide open slopes and a panoramic view make Kirkwood a favorite among locals. Eleven lifts service the mountain, which offers 2,300 skiable acres and a vertical drop of 2,000 feet. Adult tickets are $41.

Intermediate skiers will enjoy the back side of the mountain or nice cruising runs on the Solitude chair. Beginners will also find some fun runs, but the mountain’s main appeal is for more experienced skiers.

Advanced skiers will find that The Wall and Cornice lifts are aptly named. Both of them deposit skiers at the top of a severe ridge with many challenging single and double black diamond options down.

The Zachary run (at the top of the Cornice lift) was the perfect spot for me to practice my mogul skills.

It’s steep, but the moguls weren’t too huge, and the day’s even snow conditions made for some terrific runs.

Skiing on Cornice, it was perfect to stop for lunch at the nearby Cornice Cafe for tasty bowls of black bean chili and French onion soup (house specialty). The two lodges and the Warming Hut on the backside also offer a variety food items.

Sierra-at-Tahoe

If finding pockets of powder among the pine trees is your idea of a fun day on the slopes, Sierra-at-Tahoe offers some of the best tree skiing in the Lake Tahoe area.

Ten lifts, including 3 high-speed quads, keep the traffic flowing smoothly over the area’s 2,000 skiable acres. The main lodge is actually at the mid-point of the mountain. The Sensation quad whisks advanced skiers to several challenging runs. The perfectly spaced trees invite the more daring to search for untouched snow. Lift tickets are $39.

My ski partner, Mr. Powder, would head to the trees while I stayed on the more open runs. This worked well because we could ski together, but both at our own skill levels.

Usually banished to the lower slopes, beginners also can ride to the top of the mountain at Sierra-at-Tahoe. The Sugar ‘n’ Spice run is a fun cruiser that even a beginner can handle with ease.

Snowboarders will especially like the back side of this mountain. Special lumps and bumps and a chute or two make allow boarders to show off their aerial skills.

If blue diamonds are where you feel the most comfortable, the West Bowl offers a wide variety of skiing for intermediates. Cruise down Powder Horn or Dogwood to another conveniently located high-speed quad lift.

For intermediate skiers who want to try a little black-diamond challenge, the Horsetail run is a nice option. Since most advanced skiers converge on the top of the mountain, this run is often wide open.

For the ultimate cruising run, I started at the top of the mountain and skied all the way to the bottom of the West Bowl. By the time I was done, I was ready for that chair lift - just to make my legs stop burning.

Break for lunch at either the Base Lodge or enjoy a grilled turkey, jalapeno and cheese sandwich in a window seat at the Grand View Lodge on the top of the mountain.

If you want a break from the outstanding alpine skiing on the south shore, the area has five cross-country facilities. One of them, Spooner Lake’s, located 10 miles northeast of South Lake Tahoe, offers 91 kilometers of machine-groomed trails that are sure to keep the nordic fan in any family going all day.

Several companies offer snowmobiling and sleigh rides. Or, take the kids to one of four sledding hills near the south shore.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: 3 Color Photos

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO When The ski resorts around Lake Tahoe shoot for opening by Thanksgiving weekend each year, but sometimes there isn’t enough snow. The season usually runs through the end of April, but this year it should extend even longer due to plenty of late-season snow.

Getting there Several airlines offer economical flights into Reno/ Tahoe International, about 50 miles from South Lake Tahoe. Once in Reno (if you don’t get distracted by the airport slot machines), you can rent a car at any of the major services. There are airport shuttle services available to the main towns around the lake and the larger resorts, but most skiers will find renting a car to be worth the extra cost.

Getting around Four-wheel-drive will definitely come in handy if the snow gods dump a fresh batch of the white stuff on the region. While it makes for great skiing, new snow can close many roads in the area or limit traffic to vehicles with 4-wheel drive or chains. Usually it’s an easy drive up Highway 89 from the south shore to the larger northside resorts (Squaw Valley or Alpine Meadows). But in severe snow conditions, travelers will find even that highway closed. Another way to reach Squaw Valley’s world-famous slopes is to ride the Tahoe Queen paddle boat, which offers daily service ($36 round trip) from South Lake Tahoe to Tahoe City on the north side of the lake. From there, a shuttle bus will take you to Squaw Valley, or you could try Homewood near Tahoe City. All three southside resorts offer daily shuttle bus service from the Stateline and South Lake Tahoe areas. If you’re not used to driving in poor conditions, the shuttle buses are a great idea because the roads to Kirkwood and Sierra-at-Tahoe can be trecherous.

Lodging The south shore offers a variety of lodging options. Those who want to be in the middle of the action can stay at one of the many casinos on the Nevada side of Stateline. Package deals are available, but most are on weekdays, not weekends. Harrah’s, for example, offers a ski package for two that includes three weeknights lodging, all-day lift tickets at Heavenly for two days, free breakfasts and a free show at the casino for $488. If you’re looking for a little more seclusion, try a condo on either side of the border. Or, for budget-conscious skiers more interested in the slopes than hot tubs and fireplaces, the national discount chains all have large motels close to the California entrance to Heavenly.

Dining Staying on the south shore gives hungry skiers a variety of dining options. There’s always the large buffets at the casinos, or you could try the barbecue at Hoss Hog’s. You’ll remember you’re in California when you belly up to the sushi bar at the Samurai restaurant. Skiers who want to stretch their budget will find the usual selection of national restaurant chains, as well as some great local eateries where dinner won’t cost more than your lift ticket.

For more information Call the South Lake Tahoe Chamber of Commerce at (916) 541-5255 for a packet of information on the area. Be sure to ask for the Lake Tahoe Winter Visitor’s Guide. A simple newsprint flyer, it offers easy-to-read information on the area’s ski resorts, as well as the best map. Major casinos with lodging include Harrah’s Tahoe, (702) 588-6606; Caesar’s Tahoe, (702) 588-3515; and Harvey’s Resort (702) 588-2411. Lake Tahoe Accomodations (800-544-3234) offers a variety of condos and homes around the lake for rent. The southside ski areas include Heavenly, (916) 541-1330; Kirkwood, (209) 258-6000; and Sierra-at-Tahoe, (916) 659-7453.