Glide ‘Em Cowboy When Range Turns White, Colorado Guest Ranches Welcome Nordic-Skiing Dudes

Dawn has barely broken on this crisp, mid-winter’s morn. Bundled for warmth, I exit my cabin and walk to the head of a wooded trail.

Under the faint glow of an indigo sky, I strap on cross-country skis and push off. The path leads through a shadowy lodgepole forest, which scents the air with the piney fragrance of Christmas.

All is still. Only the zing of waxless skis and the puffing of misty breaths puncture a snow-blanketed silence.

I traversed this trail once before, but under vastly different conditions. On that trip, I traveled in bright summer sunlight, wore a cowboy hat and sat atop a horse - the usual mode of transport at a Colorado guest ranch.

Most dude ranches operate as summer retreats, where guests trot horseback through meadows and forests, chow down at chuck-wagon cookouts and croon around campfires. When the flakes fall, some shut down for the season. Others put their ponies in pastures, saddle-up grooming machines and transform their spreads into homesteads for snow-gliding cowboys.

Often born as working cattle operations, guest ranches usually sit somewhere back of beyond. They offer scenery, serenity and acres of untrammeled snow.

Accommodations vary, with some comfortably rustic. Others are downright exquisite, like Home Ranch, which provides private hot tubs on every cabin porch.

A member of France’s prestigious Relais & Chateaux association, Home Ranch may be dude ranching’s piece de resistance. Located 18 miles north of Steamboat Springs, the spread occupies a piece of the Elk River Valley, where sprawling Mount Zirkel rises in one direction and conical Hahns Peak in another.

“We’re western, but we’re also very elegant,” says Lisa Long, a Home Ranch wrangler.

Antiques, down comforters, Navajo rugs, original artwork and bottomless cookie jars make cabins and rooms more than homey.

The rambling main lodge houses a living room with leather-clad seating, stone fireplace and grand piano.

In an adjacent, wood-rich dining room, owners Ken and Cile Jones join guests for four-course dinners.

Nearly all ranches include meals in their package price. Typically, days begin with a breakfast bar and hot entrees to order. Lunches may be buffet style or served. For dinner, most outfits feature their chef’s version of nouveau ranch cuisine, fare that is hearty and surprisingly gourmet.

“Guests simply do not expect a rack of lamb with candlelight and wine served at the edge of wilderness,” says John Munn, owner of neighboring Vista Verde Ranch.

Vista Verde sits farther up the Elk River Valley from Home Ranch. Past a white-capped meadow, its log buildings cluster around a clump of somber evergreens. Cabins and lodge rooms shelter guests, and two outdoor hot tubs allow communal soaking of sore muscles. Perhaps to keep up with the Joneses, Munn also equipped his larger accommodations with their own private spas.

A new lodge harbors dining and sun rooms. Outside, a wooden deck serves as a bright, snowside platform for serving lunch.

“Guests can ski right up to the buffet line,” says Munn.

When they’re not eating, winter guests can enjoy their cross-country skiing saturated in solitude. Owners typically limit occupancy to 20 or 30 people, who scatter over miles of groomed trails and powdery slopes. Many furnish instructors to teach technique and lead day trips.

At Latigo Ranch, the skiing extends into evening when guides host moonlight fondue parties.

Located high in the Gore Range north of Vail, Latigo sits at the edge of the forest overlooking the broad Middle Park basin. Indian Peaks glisten in the distance. At an elevation of 9,000 feet, Latigo receives about 200 inches of snow annually.

“It’s dry powder that falls here, and we have perhaps the best conditions in the state,” boasts co-owner Jim Yost.

Greeting Latigo’s visitors, a pair of llamas wanders near the barn. Beyond, the Social Club houses hot tub, lounge, game room, pool table and mountain-view library. Hillside cabins quarter guests, who park their vehicles away from the structures to help preserve the aura of remoteness.

Since folks come to evade outside pressures, Latigo’s rooms, like those at most dude ranches, contain neither television nor telephone.

“At a typical resort, vacations resemble business trips, where guests stay isolated in impersonal hotels,” says Yost. “We try to provide both an escape and levels of interaction not available elsewhere.”

Ranches generally operate on a first-name basis. Owners encourage staff to mingle with guests, and it’s not uncommon for employees to spend days-off taking visitors to secret haunts.

“Our people live on-site,” says Aspen Canyon Ranch partner Jack Whitt. “We all take pride in our place, and we like people to say they’ll be back.”

Surrounded by mixed conifer forest, Aspen Canyon straddles the Williams Fork River about 20 miles north of Silverthorne. A dozen rooms occupy the ranch’s three log cabins, and each has a spacious deck that overlooks the snow-lined stream.

Aspen Canyon caters to those who want diversity. The owners don’t groom tracks, but instead hand out maps of backcountry forest routes. In addition, they provide snowmobile tours, transportation to a choice of seven downhill ski resorts and power-shopping shuttles to posh shops in Breckenridge or to Silverthorne’s factory outlets.

“If folks want something else, we can usually arrange it,” says Whitt. “We try to be flexible and accommodating.”

Other ranchers may organize dog sledding, hot air ballooning, skeet or trap shooting and even ice climbing, with extra costs conveniently tacked onto the tab. Guests, however, usually find enough vacation-filling fun included in the daily rate. Depending on facilities, complimentary activities might include horseback or sleigh rides, ice skating, sledding, tubing or snowshoeing. Some add evening entertainment.

“With so much provided, guests never have to reach into their wallets,” says John Fisher, manager of C Lazy U Ranch.

Nestled along Willow Creek, five miles northwest of Granby, C Lazy U lies between meadow and mountain. Horses graze in a snow-covered pasture, and a classic barn stands at the far end of the ranch compound. Nearby, saddled steeds wait tethered to hitching posts. One of the few to offer winter riding, C Lazy U features outdoor trails and a 12,000-square-foot indoor arena.

A five-star, five-diamond guest ranch, C Lazy U pampers pardners in cozy, fireplace-equipped cabins, many containing in-room Jacuzzi tubs. Like first-class hotels, they furnish designer toiletries, terry robes and turn-down service with a chocolate mint.

Every morning, an employee visits guests at breakfast to take requests and make suggestions for the day.

“Our summer program is more rigid,” Fisher says, “but in winter, people are free to do pretty much what they like.”

Fortunately, no one else follows my lead and skis at daybreak to catch the splendor of a Colorado winter sunrise. The trail is mine alone.

Beneath brightening skies, I glide onward, finally reaching the overlook at path’s end. Shadows still fill the valley below, but already the surrounding peaks blush with early morning light. Soon, the sun pokes over the mountainous horizon, and I stand bathed in its warming rays.

Before retracing my tracks, I swap headgear. Off goes the ski cap. In its place, I don my wide-brimmed, ten-gallon, Stetson cowboy hat.

After all, this is a Colorado dude ranch.

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO Home Ranch: This year’s winter season runs from Dec. 17 through the end of March. A full week’s stay is required Christmas and New Year’s weeks; a three-night minimum applies otherwise. Nightly rates start at $385 per couple. Kids must be age 6 or over, and the ranch provides counselors and kids’ activities. Rates include complimentary use of equipment for skiing the ranch’s 40 kilometers of groomed trails, and free shuttle and lift tickets to the Steamboat Ski Area. Contact Home Ranch, P.O. Box 822, Clark, CO 80428; 970-879-1780.

Vista Verde Ranch: The ranch entertains winter guests from Dec. 21 through March 16. A five-night stay is required from opening through Jan. 1, three nights thereafter. Daily rates start at $180 per adult. Children must be age 3 and over, and the ranch furnishes “kids’ wranglers” during the holiday period. Price includes optional winter horseback riding. Cross-country skis may be rented for use on the ranch’s 30 kilometers of groomed tracks. Special five-night packages can include downhill skiing, dog sledding, Snow Cat powder skiing and ice climbing. Contact Vista Verde Ranch, P.O. Box 465, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477; 800-526-7433.

Latigo Ranch: Open from Dec. 15 through March 30, Latigo Ranch requires no minimum stay during the winter months. Cabin rates run $110 per person. They welcome children of any age, and kid’s activities can be provided, including ski lessons. The ranch will arrange ski rentals, or guests may bring their own for use on 55 kilometers of groomed trails. Dog sledding is available for an additional fee. Contact Latigo Ranch, P.O. Box 237, Kremmling, CO 80459; 800-227-9655.

Aspen Canyon Ranch: Snow conditions permitting, the ranch plans to accommodate guests from Dec. 15 through early April, and a two-night minimum stay is required. Cabins rent for $100 per person. Cross-country skiers must provide their own equipment for use on ungroomed, backcountry routes. A special downhill ski package, which includes daily transportation to a choice of seven alpine resorts, costs $135 per day. Aspen Canyon specializes in snowmobiling and offers other packages featuring half-and full-day rides. They welcome children of any age, but offer no special kids’ programs in winter. Contact Aspen Canyon Ranch, 13206 County Road #3, Star Route, Parshall, CO 80468; 800-321-1357.

C Lazy U Ranch: Winter season at the C Lazy U runs from December 18 through late March. A five-night stay is required during the holidays; a two-night minimum applies thereafter. Rates vary by type and location of accommodations, but average about $150 per person per day, with a 40 percent discount for children 17 and under. Higher rates apply around Christmas. Price includes optional winter horseback riding and complementary use of cross-country or telemark equipment for skiing 30 kilometers of groomed trails. The ranch offers children’s programs all winter. Contact C Lazy U Ranch, P.O. Box 379, Granby, CO 80446; 970-887-3344.

For information about other Colorado dude ranches: Call or write the Colorado Dude and Guest Ranch Association, P.O. Box 300, Tabernash, CO 80478; 970-887-3128.