Hurtigruten Show Off Norway’s Coast

Sun., June 15, 1997

Jean Allen Sun-Sentinel

Q. My husband and I are planning a two-to three-week trip to Scandinavia this summer. We want to concentrate on the fjords and coastal Norway. The tours we’ve looked into do not offer two-and three-day stops at various places. We are in our 60s, quite energetic and very attuned to natural beauty. Could you advise about “must-see” places and tour groups that moves at a moderate pace?

A. The best way to see the fjords of Norway’s west coast is by ship. Although some cruise lines offer summer cruises in that area, I recommend one of the liners that for the past 100 years have been carrying cargo, mail and passengers to 34 ports from Bergen to Kirkenes, near the Russian border, a round trip of 2,500 miles.

The 11 ships, called Hurtigruten, are modern and comfortable, but not luxurious. They serve good food and call at a string of delightful fishing villages and historic port cities. Depending on space availability, cabin passengers can take all or part of a cruise or cruise one way and fly back. It’s sometimes possible to stay over to see an interesting place and catch up with the ship by rail or bus at the next port of call. Sometimes it’s OK to get off one ship, visit an area, then catch the next ship to continue the cruise. This is a slow-paced way to enjoy the natural beauty of the coast and meet Norwegians, most of whom speak English. The 11 coastal steamers are represented in the United States by Bergen Line, 800-323-7436.

Bergen is my favorite Norwegian city, and if you start your coastal cruise there, plan to arrive early to enjoy the area. Oslo is another place not to miss, and after you see the capital and visit the various ship-oriented museums, I highly recommend that you ride from Oslo to Bergen by rail via the Flam Line. This one-day trip crosses a plateau well above the timberline and includes a ride on a little old train that descends in a series of hairpin turns and tunnels from 4,267-foot elevation to sea level, dropping one foot for every 18. It’s a great trip.

Start your planning with a free copy of Norway, All-Year Travel Directory 1997, from the Norwegian Tourist Board, 655 Third Ave., New York, NY 10017, phone 212-885-9700.

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