Learning The Ropes Climbing Gyms, Experienced Teachers Contribute To Safe Mountaineering

Technical rock climbers belly up against a narrow, ledge of safety in the pursuit of something higher.

The situation isn’t simple if something goes wrong.

Rock climbing accidents have killed or crippled Spokane-area climbers in recent years.

The skill of climbers ranges wildly.

Anyone can buy enough rope to hang himself.

The best climbers, however, know the only safe way to reach high skill levels is one step at a time.

Doubtless many parents agonize over what to do about their energetic teens who are determined to start climbing.

Thomas Rust, an employee at a Wild Walls climbing gym in Spokane, acknowledges that climbing is dangerous.

“At no time do we advertise that it’s safe,” he warns. “The place to start is introducing that danger and in response develop responsibility.”

Ideally, climbing in gyms is easy and the risks are controlled. The routes are set, the ropes secured. But the area still needs to be controlled.

“We don’t just let people walk in off the street and jump on a wall,” Rust says.

Workers at reputable gyms make sure patrons have basic skills and understanding of safety. The atmosphere should be conducive to learning and quiet enough that partners can communicate.

Indoor gyms create an environment where beginners and experts can practice individual skills at the same place.

Climbers exercise and hone skills without interruption from weather or darkness. A climbing gym to them is what the barre is to ballet dancers.

Some people look to the climbing gym purely for recreation. Church groups, school groups and couples see it as a healthy place to socialize.

Given the proper training and equipment, indoor climbing is as safe as any other physical sport. The danger creeps in when climbers begin applying indoor skills to outdoor situations.

Alpine mountaineering, of which rock climbing is only one part, involves massive preparation and gear to incorporate all the possible types of terrain and weather encountered on a single expedition.

The gym experience does not fully prepare a climber for real rock, Rust said.

Though indoor climbers have learned to belay, gyms do not have the facilities to teach the subtleties of top-roping, anchors or placing protection in the rock face.

Standard rules apply, but the natural land forms-rocks or trees-available for anchoring and attaching devices in the climbing surface itself for aid points make each route a case by case challenge.

“Starting in a gym is a great plan, and there’s no reason why a safe transition to the outdoors can’t be made,” said Robert Lowry, a member of the Spokane Mountaineers. “You just don’t want to be one of the ones who knows enough to climb but not enough to climb safely.”

Rust tells parents to have an interest in their kids’ climbing ambitions and go with them.

“If not, make sure kids are with someone with known climbing skills,” he said.

The best instruction is passed down by very experienced climbers or professional instructors.

The most likely places to meet experienced climbers are the gyms, mountaineering groups, mountain shops and college clubs.

Still, the climbing group should be scrutinized.

“Five 17-year-olds are probably intrepid enough to make it back, but this is not an ideal technical climbing group,” said Karen Lowry, Bob’s wife and climbing partner. “Find one person to build a climbing partnership, someone you trust with skills. Then go forward.”

Said Rust, “You can’t buy this personal growth.”

Good alpine climbers need judgment. They must understand weather and the effects temperature might have on rock or ice.

Some climbs have only a narrow window of time in which to succeed. Some steep slopes cannot be climbed when wet. All the gear money can buy will not lead the climber to his goal without experience and judgment in using it.

Robert Lowry has watched with dread as climbers began an ascent on Mt. Hood when they should have been heading down and he has sighed with relief as climbers wisely holed up to weather a storm.

“You can take a week off from work, have all the right gear, be in the best shape, but if everything isn’t right you’re not going to make the climb.”

The mountain will decide.