Earl Grey Pass Traverse

Check it out Distance: 37 miles

Difficulty: Difficult Hiking time: 4-5 days Season: July - Sept. Maps: Canadian topo Lardeau, 82-K Info: British Columbia Parks, Kootenay District, (250) 422-4200 in Wassa or (250) 825-3500 in Nelson

Backpacking trip notes

Access: West trailhead: From Kaslo, British Columbia, head north on highway 31. Pass through tiny Lardeau and drive 3-3/4 miles before turning right toward Argenta. Cross bridge over Duncan River and turn right toward Argenta and Johnson’s Landing. Go about 2-1/2 miles on gravel and turn left through scattered village of Argenta (watch for small Earl Grey Pass sign). Pass post office and go short way to trailhead parking area at sharp right turn in logging road.

East trailhead: From Invermere, British Columbia, drive 11 miles to Panorama Ski Resort. Pass resort on right (north side) of Toby Creek, where road turns to gravel, and drive about 12 miles toward Mineral King mine site. Just past road to Jumbo Pass and bridge over Jumbo Creek, turn left into primitive campsite and trailhead parking area at confluence of Jumbo and Toby creeks.

Attractions: Route traces Indian route over rugged Purcell Mountains in British Columbia’s Kootenay region. In 1908 sight-seeing visit to British Columbia, route used by Earl Grey, Canada’s governor general from 1904-1911.

Trek covers some of best Canada has to offer, from dark old-growth hemlock and cedar forest along Hamill Creek, past moose meadows and waterfalls to ragged glaciated peaks at 7,543-foot Earl Grey Pass and through some of the region’s richest grizzly country. Hand-operated cable cars help with five major stream crossings, but many smaller crossings must be forded or crossed on logs.

Area protected in 1974 and enlarged in 1995 as 499,210-acre Purcell Wilderness Provincial Park. Entire route rarely traveled because of 287-mile shuttle between trailheads.

Hazards: Grizzly bears, moose, slippery log creek crossings, plus liberal amounts of devil’s club and stinging nettles.

Comments: Park’s brochure on Earl Grey Pass Trail helps identify creek crossings and precious few campsites. Canada topos 82K/2, 82K/7, 82K/8 helpful, although trail not shown on current editions. Small groups recommended, since most sites in mid-portion of route accommodate only two or three tents comfortably. At least three hikers recommended for travel in bear country and assisting at creek crossings.

Starting from west side, trail descends about 700 feet and intersects turn-of-century mining road that headed short way up Hamill Creek drainage. Remnants of log roadbed over bogs still evident in places.

Cross Clint Creek and walk to first of five cablecar crossings over Hamill Creek. Fasten pack to one bench, and sit on the other. Others in party help by pulling on cables. Leave car hanging free over creek after use. Party should bring leather gloves to protect hands from possible frayed cables.

Route gains 5,400 feet in about 25 miles from this area to Earl Grey Pass.

Pass compressor site for mining that ended in 1907. Pass dilapidated MCLaughlin’s Cabin, a trapping base built in 1906. (Holes cut a few feet off ground in large trees along trail are marten trap sites.)

Trail maintenance varies from here. In avalanche chutes, where brush engulfs trail, look for ribbons, cairns and previously cut alder to find way. Trail easy to follow in timber.

Make lots of noise when entering and walking through brushy areas to avoid surprising bears. Pepper spray recommended.

Toughest section is 10 miles or so from Rock Creek to Earl Grey Pass, where trail can be hard to follow through avalanche paths and bogs. Route heads steeply in last few miles with no opportunity to camp until reaching pass. Good low-impact campsites just over pass and down several switchbacks in vast open area on moraine at base of Toby Glacier.

If body’s willing, scramble north from pass on ridge to rocky point, then down and up again to 8,841-foot Shale Peak for one of best 360-degree views one can get without a helicopter.

Horses prohibited on west side of pass, but allowed on east side. Trail easy to follow on east side, but creek fording still required. East side characterized by bigger U-shaped glacial valleys. Campsites easier to find. Don’t slack off on hanging food to keep it away from bears.

With all of Canada at his beckoning, Earl Grey picked this area for summer vacation cabin that still stands near east trailhead. Enough said.

With careful planning, two groups can start at opposite trailheads and exchange vehicle keys near pass to avoid long shuttle. Group that ends trip on west side can celebrate at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort north of Nelson. East-side group can do likewise at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort south of Invermere or, better yet, drive 11 miles east from Highway 95 toward White Swan Lake (turnoff is 35-1/2 miles south of Invermere or 44-1/2 miles north of Cranbrook) and soak for free at Lussier Hot Springs.

Guided backpacking trips available through Discovery Canada in Kaslo, (250) 353-7349.