Mountain Marvels Montana’S Big Mountain Lives Up To ‘Destination Resort’ Billing

If I must be rousted from sleep by a mechanical noise coming from just outside my window, my first choice is the whine of a nearby chairlift, preferably muffled by dense snowfall.

I arrived at this not-so-profound conclusion recently while staying at Kintla Lodge, the newest addition to Big Mountain’s slopeside village.

Several characteristics distinguish “destination” ski resorts such as Big Mountain from most so-called community hills: higher elevation, deeper snow, more abundant terrain and a greater number of lifts.

Arguably of equal appeal, though, is the luxury of not having to squeeze behind the wheel of a car between check-in and check-out. Everything you need — from lip gloss to log furniture — usually is available within walking distance.

Because of its convenient Inland Northwest location, Big Mountain is a good place to test this theory.

From Spokane, you have three ways to get there: an easy five-hour drive via Interstate 90 and two Montana state highways; a 54-minute direct commuter flight that leaves Spokane daily at 12:30 p.m.; or a five-hour Amtrak train ride departing Spokane at 1:15 a.m.

Shuttle service from the Kalispell airport and the Whitefish train depot can be arranged through Whitefish Central Reservations. Once unpacked, you can forget about fighting for parking spots and negotiating slippery roads.

My wife and I arrived in late afternoon, just in time to observe what locals agreed was a rare phenomenon for January: blazing sunshine. From Big Mountain’s 7,000-foot peak I could see into Canada and Glacier National Park.

The village itself had a festive feel, accentuated by the sound of sleigh bells and the aroma of back-deck burgers - immodestly nicknamed “the best burger in the free world” - barbecuing in the open air behind the ‘Stube, a rollicking pub decorated with decades of memorabilia and featuring 35 beers on tap.

Further up the village road, we dined at an even more venerable landmark: the Hellroaring Saloon and Eatery, celebrated by Skiing Magazine as the best slopeside bar (in the Free World, presumably).

The Hellroaring’s food is as satisfying as its traditional-lodge ambience is authentic. But for a truly memorable meal, try the Cafe Kandahar, which combines romantic atmosphere with elegant presentation.

Tucked away in the European-style Kandahar Lodge, Cafe Kandahar describes itself as French provincial. But the menu offers an eclectic range of gourmet creations, including king salmon, duck breast, Georgia quail and veal scaloppine.

If tax-free shopping is on your agenda, the village has a half-dozen stores featuring local crafts, clothing, books and basic sundry.

But most visitors come for the outdoors, which can be best enjoyed aboard skis - downhill, telemark or cross-country - snowboard, snowshoes, snowmobile, tube or horse-drawn sleigh.

The resort features more than 3,000 acres of skiable terrain, eight chairlifts, and 15 kilometers (nine miles) of Nordic trail.

But don’t be intimidated. Free mountain tours leave the base area every day at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m.

And if Big Mountain’s 78 runs don’t quench your thirst for verts, an extra $45 (on top of the regular $40 adult ticket price) buys four hours of snow-cat access to untracked powder on the mountain’s back side. The two times I’ve tried this option, I enjoyed clear visibility among the trees while the rest of the peak was socked in thicker than potato soup.

The Friday night we visited, the resort sponsored a surprisingly entertaining “snow show” featuring alpine and Nordic skiers, snowboarders, acrobatic freestyle jumpers and fireworks, all loosely tied together by a Disneyesque storyline. (The final show of the season is set for next Sunday.)

We also got a kick out of Cowboy Doug Evans’ sleigh ride and Western show. Evans, a local rancher and poet, spins ropes and yarns, teaches a bit of cowboy history, and plays a harmonica in an unforgettable style (which I won’t spoil by describing, lest I be hogtied and branded).

Upcoming spectator events at Big Mountain include:

March 3-5, Northern Division Freestyle Championships.

March 6-13, Junior Freestyle National Championships.

March 25-26, USAA Youth Ski League giant slalom and slalom northern division championships.

April 1, Freeskiing Slopestyle Championships.

April 8, the 30th Annual Furniture Race.

There’s plenty to do, too, in the town of Whitefish (pop. 4,600) eight miles away: sight-seeing, ice-skating, shopping, a railroad museum, fine restaurants, cross-country skiing under lights, and microbeer-tasting at the Great Northern Brewery.

For the more adventurous, guide Rusty Well leads snowshoe and cross-country trips into Glacier National Park - and even makes the bread for your sack lunch.

But I recommend you “misplace” your car keys for a few days, and not bother setting an alarm clock. Wait for the gentle hum of a nearby chairlift.

This sidebar appeared with the story: IF YOU GO Big Mountain

How to get there: Big Mountain is 260 miles east of Spokane. If driving, take I-90 to St. Regis, Mont., and head north.

Big Sky Airlines offers a daily commuter flight to Kalispell. Round-trip fares start at $165. Call (800) 237-7788.

Amtrak’s Empire Builder serves Whitefish from Spokane. Adult fares start at $58 round trip. Call (800) USA-RAIL or visit Amtrak’s Web site at www.amtrak.com.

Round-trip shuttle service, through Whitefish Central Reservations (800) 858-5439), costs $16 per person from the train depot, $23 from the airport. Where to stay: Accommodations on Big Mountain range from $85 per couple at the Hibernation House to $650 per unit at Anapurna Properties. Skiing: Lift tickets at Big Mountain cost $40 for adults, $27 for juniors (7-18), $30 for seniors (62+) and college students, and under 7 free. Glacier Park Ski Tours can be arranged by calling (800) 646-6043, ext. 3724, or (406) 862-2790.

Information: (800) 847-4868 or at visitmt.com on the Web.