Step Into Lilac City’S Front Parlor
I love downtown Spokane.
As a rural kid visiting The Crescent at night, some 30 years ago, I thought it was the most exciting place imaginable. Broader experiences have left me less naive, but I still love downtown and have great hopes for its revival.
Amid the politics and problems, there’s one prevailing public attitude I just don’t understand. This is frequently expressed in letters to the editor by writers who denounce future visits downtown in favor of shopping at “another mall,” as if everything but parking is otherwise equal. Often these letters have an us-against-them, nose-thumbing tone.
Certainly people may shop anywhere they choose. But to compare a typical mall to downtown as an either/or choice is like comparing milk to merlot.
Let’s just dismiss the notion that downtown belongs to the people who live there, work there or own property there. Our city belongs to each and every one of us. Think of downtown as the front parlor. When Spokane area residents throw one of our big parties, where is it held? Bloomsday, Hoopfest, Pig Out in the Park, various festivals and parades - none of these events would have quite the flavor they do if held anywhere but in the heart of the city. When out-of-town visitors want to see Spokane’s unique attractions, most of us take them downtown. For culture, music, live theater and shows, the destination is downtown.
Maybe it’s time for locals to look at downtown with the fresh eyes of a tourist.
Bloomies, as you begin your trek tomorrow, look at the buildings along Riverside Avenue from the Review Tower to the restored Carnegie Building. This immaculate, tree-lined street is a work of art. Really see this collection of lovely old structures, including the Spokane Club, the Cathedral of our Lady of Lourdes, the Masonic Temple and North Coast Life buildings. The picturesque Riverside Court Townhouses and surrounding brick buildings, attractive and well-maintained, look like something transported from Italy.
All over downtown and beyond, pockets of urban renewal are sprouting and spreading - some, very quietly. Check it out for yourself. For example, visit Carnegie Square for refreshment at Fitzbillies Bagel Bakery and to browse through the interesting shops. The newly-renovated Steam Plant Square is worth an hour or so just to explore the building. The development of most retail space there is still under way, but you can take in a meal, a micro-brew and a lot of history at Steam Plant Grill.
Many city-center establishments gain much of their charm and ambiance from the antiquity of the buildings that house them: The Old Spaghetti Factory, Europa Pizzaria, The Onion, The Met, the Fox Theater, office and commercial buildings decorated with real marble and elaborate adornments - just to name a few.
If parking lots and garages annoy you, then park at a 10-hour meter on the fringe of downtown (five hours for a buck) and enjoy the walk. Try parking near the Flour Mill, worth a visit in itself, then stroll into town via the pedestrian bridges and Riverfront Park. Hop onto the charming Trolley when it’s time to return to your car. Only a quarter to ride, and kids love it.
Families also love the Children’s Museum, truly “A place where kids play to learn and adults learn to play.” Another unique activity is to decorate a piece of unglazed pottery at Art By Yourself, tucked in a cranny near the railroad overpass on Monroe. They fire your masterpiece right there, and you end up with a one-of-a-kind keepsake.
In Riverfront Park, ride the cherished Carrousel, sit on the steps at the river’s edge and feed the waterfowl, soak in the ambiance of people enjoying life, savor the fresh air (not available in most malls!). Play on the Red Wagon. See an Imax film. Ride the gondola for a spectacular view of the thundering falls. Walk around the park and pick a viewpoint or two or 10 from which to sip a latte and eat a snack. Stroll a ways up the Centennial Trail, or rent a bike and go even farther.
Come downtown and feel its pulse. Explore. Bring your kids, or not. Enjoy the art - both in galleries and on the street in the form of fountains, sculptures, historic architecture, bridges and plantings. It’s even underfoot, as in the delightful little plaza at the southeast end of Monroe Street Bridge. Check out the view from the downtown library. Ride the STA Plaza escalator and admire the waterfall and cougar sculptures. There’s art everywhere, once you take the time to notice.
Shopping? Why not? For a change from chains, be sure to check out Auntie’s Bookstore, Huppin’s, Boo Radley’s, Revival Lighting, Global Folk Art and scores of other unique shops. Don’t forget Crescent Court. Cruise the skywalks looking for discoveries. Scout the antique stores and secondhand shops.
And go ahead, visit River Park Square. Personally, I think it’s a terrific addition to our downtown. Whatever your political opinions might be, at least ride the escalator and allow yourself to admire the artistry of the building. Find your favorite regional lake on the entryway mural.
Be sure to eat. Culinary discoveries abound downtown, and most of it surpasses the standard food-court fare typically available in malls. Be bold. Try something you’ve never had, be it Irish, Greek, vegetarian, German, Italian, Mexican, Thai, Japanese. Choose a restaurant with outdoor seating and people-watch.
Yes, you can shop downtown, but that’s only a fraction of its value. Open your eyes to this treasure, the heart of Spokane, and have some fun exploring it. You won’t be able to do it all in one day.